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Let’s face it, Bassing friends, January and February in the Pacific Northwest are not premium months for pursuing either Largemouth or Smallmouth. There are still catch-able fish out there, lurking in the Winter haunts we discussed last month, but it’s a cold, slow game if you want to try for them. You can review the February 2009, Bob’s Bassmaster Basics article on preparing for Spring Bass fishing. It has lots of useful information for planning, researching and just generally studying up in order to be really ready for your first major trips into Bass Paradise. For January and February, let’s talk a little bit about rods, reels, baits and other gear. Some of this information will be very basic, but these articles are purposely geared toward folks who are newer to the Bass fishing scene, or who would just like to gain a few more tidbits of useful knowledge. As always, feel free to put in your two cents worth in the Forum section. I am forever looking for new ideas, and I believe that is one of the identifying signs of any good fisherman.

Whether you are a die hard Salmon fisherman, Steelheader or Bassing fanatic, if you have been fishing very long at all you probably have some strong opinions on the relative merits of spinning gear versus bait-casting gear.

I grew up fishing with spinning gear. As a boy I would spend entire Summer days, dawn to dark, wandering up and down the local creek near our home. During the school year I would be back down at the creek, as soon as I could dodge out of old Mrs. Peterson’s class. Using worms I had dug from our garden or crawdads I caught with the worms, I would catch nice Rainbow Trout throughout the year. Many were in the 14 to 16 inch range and one monster was 20 ½ inches long. I came whistling home like Opie from Mayberry and my Dad took one look at that whopper, grabbed his gear and headed for the creek!

Dad was quite the accomplished Steelhead fisherman and had ‘mastered’ the Kalama, Lewis, Washougal and other rivers by the time I was getting good at free-lining worms or crawdad tails into likely seams in Burnt Bridge Creek. He fished with spinning gear, so I did too. The reels we had back then were fairly basic and cheap. But they worked, and we caught fish. I’ll never forget how amazed my Dad, my brother and I were when we saw our first 5 to 1 retrieve reel. It was a D.A.M. Quick and wooee, it was FAST!

On my 8th birthday my Dad walked into my classroom at school with a brand new rod and reel, handed it to me and said: “Let’s go fishin’!” The teacher and the other kids watched with open mouths as I proudly hopped out the door with my Dad (I don’t think anyone could get away with that trick nowadays!). He took me to a couple of his favorite holes on the Kalama river, set me up with an Okie Drifter rig and much to my surprise, I caught two nice hen Steelhead that day. It took me over 7 years to catch another one. Okay, Dad was a little better than me.

When I finally got into Bass fishing – in my forties – I kept seeing guys using bait-casters almost exclusively. I had seen bait-casters up on the Kalama, but Dad and I just considered them oddities and went with what had always worked for us. I would watch Bill Dance and Larry Nixon and other Bass pros on T.V. and look at pictures of them in magazines. With the exception of the Lindner brothers (them good old Northern boys), everyone was using a bait-casting rig. I remember one program when the Lindners were showing how to throw spinnerbaits with bait-casting reels. They seemed surprised at how well they worked.

I was already catching nice big Bass on my spinning gear (My Dad was horrified when he found out I was using 17 pound test line – He regularly caught summer run Steelhead on 4 lb., and he always declared that anyone using more than 8 lb. was just just ‘horsing the fish in!’), but I got curious and bought a low-profile bait-cast reel from a catalog. What a strange contraption! The spool was sitting sideways and it went around whenever you touched the handle, unlike the stationary spool on a spinning reel. It was a Right-hand reel, and I quickly became convinced that the pros must be wizards, because I couldn’t make it work right and it always felt awkward to use. I simply could not duplicate their habit of casting and then switching the rod to the other hand.

It was a revelation when I discovered that you could get bait-casters in a Left-hand version. Since I had always used my Left-hand on my spinning reel, hanging down under the rod, it worked much better for me to have a Left-hand bait-caster, sitting on top of the handle. Also, my right arm is my power or ‘fighting’ arm, so I can battle the fish in the way that is ‘natural’ to me.

So what does bait-casting gear do that a spinning reel does not do, or can not do? For one thing, it fires the line straight off the spool when you cast. The line passes through the line-leveler and there is no spiral of line – an unavoidable characteristic of spinning reels – uncoiling off the reel, then passing through large guides on the rod until it is finally traveling in a straight line. Many people believe this gives the bait-caster an edge in distance casting.

Another plus is that the bait-casting rod has more guides than the spinning rod, because the line passes over the top of the rod, rather than underneath. Since the line is moving straight from the time it leaves the reel, this does not slow the line at all, but it does force the line to follow the curve of the entire rod blank when under tension. When a spinning rod, which has fewer and wider spaced guides, is flexed under tension, the line makes some jagged, angled turns from one guide to the next, without really following the complete arc of the rod. This puts more strain on the line and does not take best advantage of the fish fighting ability of the blank.

One more advantage of the bait-casting rig is its ability to zing your bait out quickly, yet with some practiced ‘feathering’ of the spool with your thumb, it allows the bait to slow to a stop and quietly ‘kiss’ the water at the end of the cast. Once a spinning outfit has launched your bait, your gear is going to crash into the water with a little more force and noise, even if you try to give it a gentle toss. If you are stalking spooky fish, or if you simply do not want to alert your prey to your presence, a bait-caster can be just the thing! The only way to compensate with a spinning rig is to go to lighter gear, which you may not be able to cast as far.

Lighter gear is still the strong suit of the spinning outfit. You can throw very light weights and baits very easily with them. This makes it a cinch to ’skip’ light baits in under low-hanging brush or tree branches, or underneath docks. Bait-casters have traditionally been used for heavier weights and baits, and unless you have one of the newer, low-profile bait-casters, it will be difficult to achieve the same results. Even with the finest of the high-end bait-casters, it will take some practice to ’skip’ light baits without backlashes.

Now we come to it, the misery of the backlash or ‘birds nest.’ No reel, bait-caster or spinning, should ever bring in loose or ’slack’ line. You are just asking for a tangle or stray loop caught in the wrong spot on the reel. As for outgoing line, the spinning reel casts reliably, simply with the release of the line from your finger. The bait-caster, not so much! You must adjust the braking of the spool, or it is very liable to have an over-travel problem, continuing to spin after your bait has hit the water. This will produce a birds nest so glorious it could end or seriously delay your time on the water. Even with the brake adjusted properly, a new breeze can produce enough pressure on your bait and line during flight to cause it to slow, while the spool happily whirls around, throwing out loose line that turns into tight knots.

The best bait-casting reels have more than one kind of braking system. They help you ‘fine tune’ the spool. Some have magnets and/or designs that adjust centripetal force on the spool. Some have other specialties, such as ‘twitching bars’ that allow you to bring in small amounts of line with your thumb without even touching the reel’s handle (One hand twitching or hopping of baits), and some have ‘flipping switches’ which facilitate short-distance ‘flipping’ or ‘pitching’ techniques. Whichever bait-casting reel you choose, it will take some time to ‘make your peace’ with it. But you will enjoy its advantages in various situations.

I now fish with an equal number of bait-casters and spinning outfits when I hunt Bass. I adapt them to my needs, the kinds of baits I am throwing and the conditions I am facing. I still love the spinning reel, but the bait-caster is a welcome addition to my arsenal, and I understand why old Bill Dance loves his. In fact, I fish with Quantums, just like Bill. Other great brands include Shimano, Pflueger, Abu Garcia, Daiwa and others that offer high-end, smooth-casting reels.

Take a look at some common features on the spinning and bait-casting reels in the pictures provided. On the bait-caster you will see the large ’star drag,’ your fish fighting friend, and the smaller brake knob. On the side opposite the brake knob on the Quantum Energy there is a dial for ‘fine tuning’ the travel of the spool. This is a common feature of good reels. The line-leveler at the front of the reel travels back and forth and stacks the line on evenly during the retrieve.

On the spinning reel, the large dial on top of the reel is the drag. On the Quantum Energy shown, the drag is composed of stacked ceramics, making it smooth and uniform in the pressure it applies. The line roller that guides line on and off of the spool should be large and should turn freely, to lessen the sharp turn of line from rod to spool in order to avoid line twist and/or damage. At the rear of the reel, as in most spinning reels, is the ‘anti-reverse’ switch. On good reels, it should be ‘infinite’. That is, it should prevent the reel from reversing, no matter in what position the handle is stopped.

Now is a good time to clean and lubricate your reel, and to spool on new line for the coming season. Consult your owner’s manual for recommendations for your particular reel. I find Quantum Hot Sauce oil and grease to be the best lubricants for my gear.

Next month we’ll talk about fishing rods, line, baits and other gear that Bass fishermen need to consider.

In the meantime, why not go fishing? Come on! It’s not that cold!

When our Northwest water temperatures dip below 50 degrees, we have well and truly entered Winter’s chilling grip, and Largemouth fishing presents two major problems: Coldblooded, lethargic fish that are slow to respond to any presentation, and cold, shivering fishermen who would rather stay extra active to keep warm! What a combination! Just when you feel an urgent need to move around a lot and keep up speedy casts and fast reeling in order to stay warm…..you have to slow way, way down if you want to catch a big Bass.

It’s not that the fish do not want to eat at all. They do, but just not as much or as often as in warmer, more active seasons. And the ‘Strike Zone’? Well, it is pretty much right in front of their noses, even when they are in what passes for an ‘active’ mode in Winter. Even with the urge to eat, or to strike at an irritating, intruding bait, the Bass just can not muster the energy or speed to move very far or very fast. When hooked, most cold water fish are logy and put up a slow-motion fight. But a big fish can still give you a satisfying, worthwhile battle!

The one common denominator of all big Bass is still in effect even in chilly water: They want to use their well-developed, efficient ambush skills to get an easy meal with the least amount of effort on their part, and with the least amount of exposure to possible predators. Experiencing success in these areas is how they have grown so large and stayed alive so long.

While I will discuss warm weather ‘Thermoclines’ later in 2010, the truth is that in our local lakes and streams, Largemouth location will be determined by water temperatures and depths near available food and cover. Cover becomes more scarce in Winter. The lily pads, underwater weeds, cattails, bulrushes, floating weed mats and leafy, overhanging trees and brush of Summer are mostly all gone. Now Bass are reduced to finding hiding places such as leaner logs extending from shore down into the depths, underwater wood such as submerged limbs or stumps, rocks, ledges, deep steep banks and areas in or near underwater creek channels.

Some fish will simply seek the confidence of a lot of deep water over their heads in any area where baitfish are still available. The fish can also take refuge near man-made structures such as bridges, pilings, culverts or shoreline riprap that runs steeply down to sufficient depths. Winter can provide a slight advantage then: Bass are often concentrated in these premium areas during cold months.

Each body of water is unique, but it will possess at least a few of these necessary features that are worth fishing. One Southwest Washington lake has a creek and well defined creek channel proceeding through the lake and down to a dam. The dam area offers steep banks and evergreen trees that still cast shade. Even shore-bound anglers can offer vertical presentations of small plastic worms, leeches, grubs or tubes fished conventionally or on a drop-shot rig here. Drop-shotting might work best, with a heavier-than-normal weight at the bottom that is kept in one place after the cast, while the soft plastic bait above the weight is repeatedly shaken or twitched at intervals. Large, slow-fluttering metal spoons might also tempt a fish, as can a lipless crankbait that is allowed to ’sit and hop’ slowly on or near the bottom. A very slow-moving ½ or ¾ ounce jig and pork frog would also be a good choice. Keeping good contact and ‘feel’ with the bait are extremely imporant. The fish are not going to ‘freight train’ your bait, rocket to the surface and jump cartwheels. They will ‘tick’ or move the line slightly, and a prompt hookset is vital.

At the other end of the lake, the creek is a fairly wide, deep trench entering the lake, with a nearby submerged stump flat making up most of one side of the upper end of the lake. The channel and nearby areas will hold winter fish, and even fish that are not feeding can be susceptible to swatting at a deep-diving, lipped crankbait slowly rooting along through their domain. Start with big baits, then downsize if necessary. Firetiger or Citrus are both good colors for this duty, though chrome and black baitfish imitations might work too.

Middle reaches of the aforementioned lake also offer points and a few rocky or extended riprap areas. There are also some areas with car-sized underwater boulders.

The points will be among my first target areas, simply because I know that points reliably attract Bass year round. The fish only need to travel short distances to find the temperature, depth and feed they like. It may take some zig-zagging runs while watching my electronics, but eventually I’ll find the depth where most fish activity is located along the point. Then I can mount my campaign to fool a big, coldwater trophy. Often, a big, slow-moving spinnerbait will be my first ’search bait.’ Like most lakes, there is a very deep area near a point. This is a good place to look for fish, then go vertical with spoons or drop-shot rigs.

Wherever you fish, on whatever body of water, one good rule of thumb to remember can be found in the advice of seasoned pros: “There will always be a few fish shallow, even in Winter.” Shallow may be a relative term in frigid water, but I would not neglect a few well-thought-out, probing casts into some likely, shallower areas!

As always, remember that a few days of warmer weather and sun on the water can produce enough of a temperature change to lure Bass into shallower areas. Be careful how you approach, don’t spook them, and go get them! I have caught good big Bass in these cold water months, and I know you can too. Remember to dress warm, be prepared for nasty weather, and if you feel yourself beginning to get numb or starting to move clumsily, time to head immediately for hearth and home. The fish will wait until next time!

See you in January, when we’ll talk a little about rods and reels.

A few days ago my friend Marlin talked me into a finger-freezing expedition into a local, Fall Largemouth heaven. I had been watching the barometer drop like a stone and I knew that sometimes, contrary to conventional wisdom, lake fish can really go on the bite when that happens. I also knew that you can get cold and wet….and skunked!…..too. But some fishing is better than no fishing, so I was up for the adventure.

I threw my camo raincoat into the rig for just in case, and headed to the water. As I suspected, the water temperature had dropped significantly, but the SouthWest Washington lake we were fishing is one of my favorite Largemouth producers and I have had success there even in November. Also, it was late afternoon, so surface temperatures had been given a chance to recover a little warmth. So electric-motoring off down the lake in my canoe we went, bucking the wind and searching for big Fall Bass.

Marlin was looking for surviving weedbeds. I was looking for rocks that might still be radiating a little heat. We found a cove that had both and guess what? Fish on! The first was a dinky little volunteer that I could hardly tell was there. But Marlin’s observation was right, that fish gave us hints about his bigger buddies’ hiding places! We caught a few nice fish in several good spots and Marlin had a monster on for awhile, but it somehow managed to escape, defeating Marlin’s best fish playing tactics and my best boat handling skills.

Mostly, I was trying to hold our position by running the MinnKota in reverse so we could both cast to good spots. A few times even the highest speed did no good and we would run helplessly with the wind or spin suddenly, just at the wrong time. Underestimating the force of the wind gusts, I allowed us to be pushed right over the top of some of the most likely fish-holding areas several times. Dumb guy! But it can be that way when the winds of November come early, and at least I managed to avoid the Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald! We were also able to slip through some shallow, confined areas that a bigger Bass boat could not have managed.

As the sun went down and the wind picked up even more, especially on the open lake areas we were trying, we both got a little too cold to stay as long as we had planned. But it was great to be on the water for awhile, and I really got a kick out of watching my friend battle a big Bass out of a weedbed, through several arcing, diving, pumping, drag-yanking runs and in to where I could finally lip him and hand him over. Marlin’s big, happy grin reminded me of why fishermen put up with foul-weather Bassing.

While October can offer some tough fishing and inactive fish, that expedition offered few challenges besides the wind. Slow-moving, grub-trimmed spinnerbaits in obvious places did the trick, but we did try the venerable jig-and-grub combo as well. When conditions do get really tough, jigs and other soft plastics generally produce better than flashier, faster-moving baits. Slow-rolling or dragging a spinnerbait along the bottom with occasional blade rolls will sometimes produce, even in very cold water.

Choosing and using baits in the Fall are best accomplished by keeping water temperature and clarity in mind. When the water gets down into the low 50’s and high 40’s, big Bass will not move far to inspect or pick up your offering. Their metabolism has slowed down and they are just too lethargic to move fast. They can still pull hard and offer a good fight, but usually they just do not have the energy to run far or jump at all. A surface headshake and wallow on top is about the best they can muster.

With the jig-and-grub combo as well as with spinnerbaits, I like to run the head of a 4 or 5 inch grub straight up the shank of the hook and as close to the lead head as I can get it. I always have the grub’s curled tail pointing downward. This helps to keep the tail from fouling on the hook point during the cast and it also lets the tail flutter along the bottom, stirring things up and looking like wiggling, live prey. I also like to keep the grub lubricated with some kind of attractant such as Yum Crawdad flavor, Smelly Jelly Crawdad or in the Columbia River, Smelly Jelly Herring/Salt (Do Bass see alot of herring? No! But I am certain that they like the smell anyway!). The odor seems to help make a difference in how much effort a coldwater Bass is willing to make. Remembering that the bite can be very light, I trim the jig’s fiber brush guard almost even with the hook point. This lets it collapse better when the fish mouths the bait, while still keeping most of the weedless/snagless features of a guarded jig. In really cold weather, I switch to an Uncle Josh pork frog which I believe has a better ‘feel’ and stays more lifelike than cold plastic. Remember to take it off the hook and put it back in the bottle, or it will shrivel into a cement-hard little booger that you’ll have to saw off next time you want to use that jig!

Slowly dragging a weedless 6 inch Texas-rigged Zoom or Power Worm, or a swim-tail Senko in black, white or watermelon seed works if you keep it low and slow, feeling carefully for a slight ‘tick’ or a ‘mushy’ resistance that might just be something more than a weed, stick or rock. As in early Spring, a ‘parked,’ lightly-twitched, slowly-retrieved suspending stick bait can work too. If you are fishing murky water, try a worm rattle pushed into your grub or worm. Just a little extra, subtle noise can help the sleepy fish home in on its target. Often a grub, worm or Senko-style bait will sink quite well with no additional weight. Get used to casting an unweighted soft plastic, and work it very slowly. I believe that a coldwater Bass is more likely to hold onto it longer than a weighted offering. This may be one reason slow-fished tube jigs work so well. They are small, subtle and usually have only a small weight, hidden in the head. The fish feels nothing but lifelike, ’squeezable’ skin.

As strange as it may seem up here in the cold North, Bill Dance’s ‘Dancin’ Eel’ or smaller tadpole version can work in the Fall as well. Even with dying, shrinking weed-beds, the treble hook can be a drawback, but just like crankbaits, the diving bill causes a head-down attitude that can keep you from snagging up if you are careful. Fish in sparse weeds, the edges of brush or weeds, bump it carefully over submerged limbs and logs, or bring it over rocky bottoms. Try cranking it down to or near the bottom, then retrieving slowly. It is not necessary to get the bait vibrating strongly and the tail does not have to ‘wiggle’ frantically. In colder water, I think a slower retrieve mimics a stunned, helpless baitfish more than an eel and it will provoke bites. If the bigger one doesn’t work, try the smaller one. Have several colors on hand.

Here’s an odd little fact to keep in mind when you are fishing in clear water: In cold water, the shape of the Largemouth’s eye changes slightly, resulting in clearer vision. That’s right! He can see better! Use the most lifelike baitfish, worm or crawdad imitating bait you have. And remember that in cold, clear weather, the fish can see you better than he could in warmer months. Don’t spook him by getting too close and showing yourself.

As I was reminded on the last outing, the weather can be unrelenting and unforgiving. Gear up appropriately, wear long underwear, make sure and have wet-weather gear, bring some warm fluids along and try some fingerless gloves or fold-back mitts. The more comfortable you are, the better a fisherman you’ll be.

Is it worth your effort to even go out after Bass in November?

Well I think it is, but let’s discuss that next month!

The days are getting noticeably shorter, lake and river temperatures are ramping down, and Largemouth Bass are responding by going on ‘The Fall Bite.’ In this time of ‘feeding frenzy,’ fish are bulking up in preparation for the cold winter months when their metabolism slows way down and with it, their feeding activity. Plus, a beautiful Indian Summer is a great time to be out on the water.

In the Pacific Northwest, September and even October can be excellent for Bass fishing, mirroring the crazy activity levels of Spring. Fish caught during this time can be much heavier and have much more of a football shape, compared to fish of the same length caught in Spring and Summer. One particularly warm mid-October, I caught 10 Largemouth in a row out of the same small area in a backwater of the Columbia River near Woodland, Washington. I had an appointment to keep so I had to leave without being able to find out how many more would have jumped on my baits, but what a day!

The above is just one benefit of the Fall frenzy: Bass seem to be more concentrated in obvious areas, not dispersed as in Summer fishing. Look for Largemouth attracted to riprap and other rocky areas. Rocks hold heat and radiate it during the cooling weeks of Fall, and Bass begin to look for these warmer areas. I have caught very large fish simply by making casts parallel to riprap shorelines and by running baits through shallow, rocky areas. Crankbaits, spinnerbaits and jig-and-grub (skirted with brush guard) or jig-and-frog combination’s work well in these situations. In clear water, try a swimbait that looks like the baitfish in that area. Rig it with as little weight as possible, but make certain it stays upright and straight, then swim it slowly along the rocks at mid-depths. A recognizable, easy meal will be hard for a Largemouth to resist. Don’t forget to experiment with a topwater bait too. A hardbait or a frog can still work under the right circumstances.

Start with the bigger, flashier lures. If they do not work, or if you get hit but not hung on a fish, go to the swimbaits or the quieter, smaller jig combo, or even a Texas-rigged soft plastic worm or tube bait. If you can be on the water at the beginning of a Fall rain, be there! This often turns on a major bite. My biggest Fall fish have come at such times.

An excellent all-around Fall tactic is to prowl river or lake shorelines from a boat, canoe, float tube, pontoon boat or kayak and simply cast a ½ ounce jig-and-grub to the shore, then drag it into the water and reel slowly, letting the jig bumble along the bottom. Aggressively feeding Fall fish will know what to do! I prefer a multicolor jig such as black, brown and green, with a little touch of red somewhere on the jig or grub. If you are shore-bound, don’t give up! You can still catch big Bass by working the shoreline to the right or left of you, gaining more access by carefully, quietly wading out where possible.

Remember that because of it’s off-center, head-heavy design, the jig is especially susceptible to being thrown if a caught fish gets his head above water and shakes it. The bait will flip out of the fish unless you keep a moderately tight line while the acrobatics are going on. Don’t allow your line to go slack, and don’t try to jerk or ‘horse’ the fish toward you. Just keep the line straight and tight between you and the fish while he’s head-shaking. I like to keep my rod more parallel at such a moment, so there is less of a sharp angle between the tip of my rod and the hook in the fish’s face. It seems to help keep him stuck. Remember that water temperatures and fish activity levels can vary quite a bit from day to day, and from area to area. A faster retrieve might stimulate attacks in one instance, a slower retrieve might be the real producer in another. When you catch a Fall bass, remember what you were doing and at what speed. The fish just gave you a hint!

As the days grow even shorter and colder, as light levels decrease and as the Bass’s metabolism decreases, the Bass will begin to move to deeper haunts and become harder to catch. But not impossible! The ’strike zone’ – distance from the fish in which he is willing to move to take a bait – will shrink, but fish will still need to feed. Slower fishing is called for, but it will still produce fish. We’ll talk about some specific slow tactics and presentations in October. See you then!

BY: Bob Larimer Your Friendly Addicted Bass Fishermen

No, that doesn’t mean that pollution and radiation have given the fish three fingers, or that I set the world record with a hundred pound fish! It means that even in the hottest weather, Smallmouth and Largemouth are biting.

The hottest day at my house hit 109 in the shade, and I saw on national news that Vancouver, Washington had broken it’s all time record with 108 degrees. But I hit the Willamette above the falls at Oregon City and found many Smallies volunteering to bite soft plastics, crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Rapala’s Shad Rap suspending Rainbow Trout worked great, alternatively sitting it and ripping it. A firetiger DT4 crankbait, bumbling along on the rocky bottom also produced. Gary Yamamoto grubs on ballhead jigs ticking the rocks also worked. Most volunteers were relatively small, but my friend Roy caught a battling 4 ½ pounder that nearly escaped the best efforts of two excited guys to net him. This was all in 100+ degree weather. We found shady spots and hid under the boat’s Bimini top. The river breeze helped out too.

I also fished some backwaters behind islands in the Columbia and caught quite a few Smallmouth. I have heard that the Columbia slough near the mouth of the Willamette is producing a mixed bag of Smallies and Walleyes too. More than one fisherman told me that they are getting big Smallmouth – 4 pounds and above – using topwaters early in the morning. Might be worth a try, if you like the adrenalin rush of a topwater attack!

We’ve got more hot August weather coming, and I don’t think we should let the heat keep us off the water. Also, there is an alternative to broiling in the heat.

Go West, young Bass man!

Many of Washington and Oregon’s coastal lakes and ponds are loaded with Largemouth. Some are hefty fish approaching 10 lbs., and you’ll be fishing in much more pleasant weather. In the past I have fished Loomis, Siltcoos, Takenitch and other coastal lakes, but this Summer I vacationed for a week with friends near Florence, Oregon and we fished a lake a few miles inland that proved to be a real producer. Combining our two families, we rented a home on the lake and were able to moor our boat and canoe at a private dock just across the lawn from the house. What a hardship it was, getting up in the morning, walking over to the boat, motoring a short distance and immediately catching fish!

When we asked an old guy who lives on the lake about launching he asked us if we were Bass fishermen, then informed us that the water was cold and no fish were being caught. We found the launch, got set up at the house, then caught fish at all hours of the day all week long. Can’t blame the guy for trying to shoo us away though!

I am proud to report that I experimented with many types of baits. One of my biggest fish came on a Bill Dance’s Eel. I wanted a more subtle bait in a shallow cove, and the head-wagging, tail-rippling motion of the bait seemed perfect. Also, we had seen quite a few salamanders surfacing for air and the Eel has similar movements. I watched a huge shape move out from under a submerged jumble of limbs and logs, then felt the weight on my line. The treble hook under the Eel’s head did the trick and we had a monster in the livewell! (I have now caught a surprise backwater Chinook Salmon, Largemouth, Smallmouth and a Rainbow Trout on the Dance’s Eel). Jig and grub combos, crankbaits and floating and suspending stickbaits also lured in some good fish. Twin-blade spinnerbaits accounted for most of our bigger Bass and we found that concentrating on points seemed to be the best strategy. Shallow coves produced during low-light hours.

A bit of experience that might help on your next outing: Topwater splashes, chases and slurps might not necessarily mean that topwater baits will produce. On several evening outings on the lake, I noticed lots of noise and motion on the surface. Desiring to be as cooperative and adaptable as possible (I always try to help supply the fish with what they want!), I put on single, then twin-blade buzzbaits. Nothing. I tried a Skitter Pop baitfish imitation using varying speeds and actions. Nothing. I twitched a floating stickbait. Nothing. I tried a Spro frog. Nothing. I tried ‘burning’ a spinnerbait just subsurface through open water where I had seen baitfish being chased. Nothing.

As I was experimenting with these baits I noticed baitfish activity at the very tips of several laydown trees extending out into the lake. Active fish were using the swamped trees to hide from predators. We made a slow, quiet approach to one these half-submerged treetops and I made a cast beyond, then hurried my spinnerbait through the water, letting it bang among the smaller branches. Even without my polarized glasses on, I suddenly saw a big bass torpedo straight up from beneath the treetop and make a vertical hairpin turn as he smashed my bait and headed for the deeps of the lake. By the time I reacted and set the hook, he had already peened himself on the bait and disappeared. He was one of the strongest, best fighting fish of the trip, and we caught several others by using the same tactic on other laydowns. It is possible that the ultra-clear water made open-water surface baits a little too flashy. Also, we had noticed many predator birds such as Cormorants, Blue Herons, Ospreys and Bald Eagles. I saw Eagles and Ospreys tumbling through the air in mock battles, screaming at each other over prime areas. With so much danger in the skies, I think the bigger, smarter fish were reluctant to risk exposing themselves by chasing baitfish out in the open.

If your are prospecting and trying out new areas this Summer, remember to try different tactics. Even though one idea or bait might make sense, there may be some factor influencing the fish in another direction. Use your powers of observation, keep an open mind, experiment and don’t get discouraged. If you keep trying, something will work. Then you can duplicate that success elsewhere on the same water.

I am excited about next month. September can be one of the best months for intercepting turned-on, football-shaped Bass. Book-ending the strategies of Spring can yield deep-bodied, hard-fighting fish that are bulking up for the chilly Winter months ahead.

See you in September!

Your friend,

Bassmaster Bob

Most Largemouth fishermen agree that Summer can be the toughest season of all. Somehow it just doesn’t seem right that the times of best weather, longest days and vacations should also offer more difficult fishing conditions. Smallmouth fishermen can enjoy 50 to 100 fish days simply casting soft plastics and filling the livewell, but if you’re going for Largemouth, it will take a little more planning and attention to detail.

While the fish are mostly done spawning and have ample feed in lakes and rivers, and while they may be relating more to underwater humps or shelves, most catchable Bass will still be found shallow – anywhere from 2 to 15 feet of water – though in some lakes big fish will be found along dropoffs or ledges or in very deep water from 25 to 50 feet. You can use your electronics and attempt to catch these very deep fish using vertical methods with such baits as heavy jigging spoons, blade baits, Senkos, tube baits, Texas or Carolina rigged worms, finesse drop-shot rigs and heavy jig and pork combinations.

One big fish hunter I know of uses very large swimbaits such as the Castaic Rainbow Trout, marking fish and then ‘parking’ the bait on the edge of weed lines where the vegetation begins to take hold just up from deeper water. He goes for long periods with no fish, but when he scores on a big one it is usually a dandy. He ‘deadsticks’ the bait, just leaving it still for long periods of time.

Some guides will employ a similar tactic while helping their customers go for shallower, more active fish. The guide will simply drop a large, Texas-rigged worm over the side of the boat and leave it sitting or slowly drifting on the bottom. Sometimes this deadsticking or do-nothing approach will result in the capture of a monster Bass that took his time locating, examining and eventually biting the ‘easy prey.’ Both methods usually involve anchoring your boat. If you are a particularly patient person, able to stay relatively still for mind-numbing periods of time, have at it. I may not be so twitchy that I have to constantly run-and-gun up and down the lake, but I do prefer systematically fishing an area, moving from place to place fairly often. When it’s not too weedy, I use the side-scanner feature of my fish finder to help find more productive spots.

Watching for surface activity and concentrations of baitfish helps to zero in on good areas too. Using my polarized Native sunglasses, I also spot big fish. They can be a challenge, but if you don’t get too close, and if you find the bait they want, they can be caught. Sightfishing can be frustrating, but it can be very rewarding. If nothing else, study the fish. Watch what he does, what he seems to be looking for. How he relates to the cover and structure in his environment. You just might pick up some information that will help you in the future, even when you can’t actually see a fish.

This Summer, remember that the old adage is true: There are always shallow fish. Along with this is the fact that shallow fish will be found wherever there is shade. Summer Fish must seek the protection and cooler qualities of shady areas, whether it is under lily pads, among cattails and bullrushes, under thick weed beds, under or beside mudlines, behind boulders or under logs. I have caught quite a few large fish in our local area that had raw spots on the tops of their tails – a kind of reverse spawning sore – from constantly sculling under their favorite log. I caught a big fish on a Texas rigged black lizard, while nightfishing in Long Lake in Spokane last July. The back of its tail from top to bottom was badly worn. This big Largemouth had been lurking along a vertical rock wall and had obviously taken up residence in a small pocket in the wall, facing out and watching for dinner. All such hideouts offer shade and cover, but the premium spots are also great ambush points where small prey do not see their doom waiting to pounce. Look for such spots!

Whether in lakes or rivers, I look for weedbeds and pads. Then I ‘pick them apart,’ dropping heavy jigs into holes in weed matts, dragging baits between clumps of pads or working weedless baits through pads. Letting a Spro Frog sit on a pad near an opening, then finally pulling him off and twitching him through the opening can produce a Summertime smash hit. Remember not to set the hook when you see the swirl or splash. Wait until you feel weight, then jab the hook in. The same pad-resting tactic, only with a Texas rigged worm which I eventually drop into an opening, can also tantalize a shady Bass into biting. Clear water and openings in vegetation are also good combinations for swimbaits, Sluggos and flukes. Try parking them like a baitfish hesitating between dashes.

I use the venerable spinnerbait too, but now I can ‘burn’ it through fish-holding areas. I might use the drop and flutter technique in some specific spots, but mostly I’m fishing the bait fast either just sub-surface or during daylight hours, deep enough so as to be barely visible to me. Usually around two feet or so, depending on water clarity. It’s somewhat of a relief to me when the warm weather finally comes and I no longer have to crawl my baits. But if I know for sure there are fish present and I’m not getting bites, I will slow the bait down or even slow-roll it on the bottom.

There was no need for that just the other night when a big fish came near to yanking my 6′6” baitcaster out of my hands. He was lurking in a barely submerged weedbed and after jarring me from daydreaming in the darkness, he dug in for the battle. Proof that even on moonless nights, Bass can still see and attack fast moving baits! This time topwaters didn’t work, but spinnerbaits did.

That happened in a lake, but don’t neglect the Columbia River. Its backwaters have some monster Bass hiding and they can be caught in daylight hours as well. I usually prefer slack or outgoing tides, but I used an incoming tide one afternoon to push a weightless, weedless, 10 inch black Powerworm under a jumble of crossed logs. A big fish gave an aggressive yank and then headed up-current in an arcing, Steelhead-like run. I had never seen a big fish make such a run. River fish have attitudes! I often find them hiding near shore along big laydowns or partially submerged logs, and such fish seem to be most vulnerable to a jig and grub dragged parallel – not across – the log.

Persistence pays off, so this Summer don’t get discouraged by the dog days and ’slow’ doldrums. Use a mesh hat and some cool clothes to beat the heat. Bring plenty of fluids. Make lots of casts. Don’t be afraid to use big baits. And about the time you’re feeling like settling into that easy chair or lounge out on the deck at home, head for the water instead. It can be beautiful out there at night. So can the big fish that are waiting. {Wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt and put on some insect repellant…the skeeters are on the bite too!}

See you in August.

Your fellow fishing fanatic and Bassmaster,

Bob Larimer

With the Columbia staying up unusually high and chilly for this time of year, Vancouver Lake is still a good place to hunt for big Largemouth.

Cast the pockets in flooded brush, look for leaner logs and bounce your spinnerbaits or jig-and-pigs off of them underwater, or yo-yo a Texas-rigged plastic worm up and down on underwater branches. Try rigging them ‘wacky’ too. If you’re sure the bottom is not too weedy, a Carolina-rigged worm, creature or lizard 18 to 24 inches behind the lead and bead might be the just the thing to fool a late Spring or early Summer Bass to chomp and romp. One recent Gallery picture has me holding up a hefty LakeRiver Bass that could not resist a twin-blade, Colorado and Willow Leaf spinnerbait dragged through and over a jumble of logs, then allowed to flutter down helplessly. Wham! What a bite and what a fight!

Lacamas Lake has been producing good fish too. My most recent June Gallery shot features a deep-bodied Largemouth that nailed the same bait just as it dropped in near an underwater branch. The picture is pretty dark {Hint!}.

Silver Lake has been producing good fish soft plastics and on jig-and-grub combinatons. Some folks have been having success with finesse drop-shot rigs, fooling Silver’s heavily pressured, tournament-wise fish. The old weedless Johnson Spoons are also producing, slipping and flashing through weeds and pads, but nobody much mentions them. Wonder why??!!

This brings us to the promised discussion of varying your Topwater assaults on the Bass’s world. In lakes, ponds or even river backwaters, topwaters will trigger vicious hits from aggressive Bass. I recommend getting in on early morning and late evening bites. Previous articles have discussed the floating minnow-bait such as Rapala or Bomber Long A, along with their jointed-body brothers. We’ve also discussed the delights of ‘walking the dog’ with a Zara Spook or other wigwagging, baitfish-resembling surface skimmer.

Floating wacky worms hooked in the middle and twitched open and closed also qualify as topwater tempters, as do ‘Salad Spoons’, Scum Frogs and other soft plastic surface offerings. Even the lowly curled tail grub, fished weightless or Texas-rig-pegged with a very light bullet weight will also slither across weeds and produce jarring surface hits. It’s a real thrill to watch the water hump up when a big fish zeros in on your helpless little grub!

Chuggers (Some come equipped with ‘weedless’ treble hooks), poppers and ‘Crazy Crawlers’ can also be relied on to trigger surface hits. The amazing, jiving, diving, rising BassOreno is another topwater that some place in a category all its own. They all get the fish looking up for dinner.

Probably one of the most time-honored topwater baits, though, is the ‘Buzzbait.’ Whether a single-blade, inline buzzer sporting a weedguard on the hook, a double small-to-large inline blade affair, a ’safety-pin’ style buzzer with blade on the top arm and a hydrodynamic, skirted jig head on the bottom arm, or the fancy new side-by-side, ‘counter-rotating’ blades (or ‘wings’) on a safety-pin style buzzer wire, buzzbaits produce. You can also buy them in varying sizes, or with ‘clackers’ depending on how noisy or subtle you want to be. There are even hollow ’spoons’ with rattles inside, designed to wobble and sputter along on the surface

These baits may irritate a lurking or hiding Bass into striking as they gurgle over the fish’s lair, they may resemble a fleeing baby bird or mouse whose luck ran out, they may resemble surface-busting baitfish being chased, or they may just attract random, curious, feeding Bass. For whatever reason, under the right conditions Bass will explode on them.

Because their hooks usually ride with the point up, buzzbait fishing can sometimes produce fish on only about 70% of the strikes the bait draws. But since the action can be really hot, it probably won’t matter! My preference is to fish them with a grub trailer, with the curled tail pointed down away from the hook point. I believe that a slightly inaccurate or short-striking fish is more likely to return for the kill if he got a taste of a lifelike, wiggling grub tail on his first whack at the bait! Either way, confidence in your bait is important.

I like to drag buzzers through ambush points between separate groups of lily pads, over grassy points, through thin stands of bullrushes and over slightly submerged weedbeds. What seems like open water can also produce well too, as can parallel retrieves along shorelines, no matter what features the bank has. Just a related note: Tournament Frogs or any floating frog imitation can sometimes do a surprising job of attracting big fish, even when retrieved across expanses of open water. It’s the only game in town, and Mr. Largemouth just might want to play!

My recommendation for this time of year, once the water is warm, is to have a variety of topwater baits ready and try them throughout the day, with special attention to evening hours when the water seems to ‘come alive.’

I think you’ll be glad you tried topwater tactics!

Have a great June and we’ll talk about the ‘dog days’ of Summer in next month’s article.

By Bassmaster Bob

The mainstem Columbia is warming up, especially in the John Day pool, but you can also try the lower Columbia as well. Now is the time to try lipless crankbaits and conventional lipped crankbaits in blue and chrome or black and chrome baitfish patterns for Smallmouths, as well as firetiger patterns. Crawdad patterns do not seem to be working as well at this time.

With just a few more degrees, the ballhead jig and single-tail grub combo will begin to score big. If you can get a 1/8 ounce jig to ‘tick’ the rocks, go with that and avoid the aggravating hangups you will get with ¼ ounce and heavier jigs. Remember to look for rocky points or underwater humps adjacent to sandy areas. On calm sunny days fish deeper, and on cloudy days you can fish a little shallower. Try putting on a dab of your favorite attractant on the grub portion, just to up the ante. I would avoid using too light a line, unless you want your heart broken by a big Smallie! We’re talking big, chunky, Columbia river rip-rap and bigwater snags. Save your tackle by rigging up with the appropriate pound test. I suggest ten pound for Smallies, unless you already have a great ‘feel’ for the bottom. For Largemouth in the mainstem Columbia, look behind islands and in protected coves in high-slack and outgoing tides. Fish a ½ ounce skirted jig and grub or jig and pork combo (the jig should have a weed guard that you can trim to suit if it seems too stiff), slowly to very slowly. Long casts and long retrieves work fine now. Find an eddy, seam or stillwater pool behind wing dams, logs or rocks, pitch the jig in from down-current and let it hit bottom. Bass will move to investigate this intruder. Count to ten before you begin to move your bait. Retrieve it slowly and steadily, feeling its progress over sand, rocks, limbs, etc.. You are imitating a crawdad, a favorite high-protein snack of bass. Big Bass will sometimes pick it up and move with it. Continue the retrieve. When the line tightens and you feel the least movement, set the hook. You should have at least 17 pound test for this technique. You will be yanking your bait off limbs and snags. You can also try tossing a baitfish-pattern floating stickbait such as a Rapala or Bomber Long A next to emerging grass on a point, or next to rocks and wood. Remember to barely twitch this bait. Then let it rest. Then twitch again. Then move slowly on the surface for short distances. Then try the sudden dive and slow-up retrieve. If one retrieve works best on a stretch of river, keep using it! Spinnerbaits might also work during this time. Throw the spinnerbait near brush and laydown trees and retrieve away from them, base to tip, to avoid snags. Bounce the spinnerbait over submerged sticks and logs. Retrieve it over submerged weeds. Try varying retrieve speeds. In cooler water, some Spring Bass fishermen put on a ’stinger’ or ‘trailer hook,’ even when using a grub or other trailer, to avoid short strikes or hits that do not quite get the Bass’s mouth over the hook. Try the above ideas in lakes and ponds as well. I have described these and other tactics in my previous Spring Bass fishing articles on the Fishingaddictsnorthwest site. Reviewing pays off! Just try to bear in mind: Warmer water, more active fish, more active baits and retrieves. Colder water, less active fish, less active baits and retrieves. This is a general rule, and experimentation is encouraged! Friends and I have managed to catch some nice big Smallmouth and Largemouth so far this Spring, all in the SouthWest Washington area. Some of the Largemouth were in the 8 and 9 pound class, along with some nice 4-5 pounders. The Smallmouth have been hitting like freight trains! Pictures should be available in Galleries. These fish all bit jig and grub combos and spinnerbaits. I fully expect to slam a few big fish on my favorite topwaters as well, before Spring is over. If we can do it, you can do it! I will also be experimenting with the new hollow-body or hollow-belly swimbaits as well. If you are going to try them out, remember that they demand clear to moderately clear water. Fish will not find these baits in muddy water. Set them up to run as straight and upright as possible and just barely ’skin hook’ them to run weedless. Try stop and go, jerk, or erratic swimming movements to trigger strikes. You are imitating a wounded or frightened baitfish. Now to this month’s promised topic: What topwater bait works best in Spring? I have already mentioned floating stickbaits in several articles. They qualify as topwaters, they are not difficult to fish, and they produce! That’s about the broadest hint I can give you. But right next to minnow-imitating stickbaits on my list is the Zara Spook. This bait is not as easy to use, and many Bass fishermen dismiss them as a bait for the warmest months of the year. It’s true that Spooks, Torpedoes and other propeller baits, inline and tandem buzzbaits, weedless frogs and other topwaters work well in Summer. It is also true that a Zara Spook, fished properly, will produce even in cool, May weather. The Zara Spook has no diving lip and the only action it will produce is the action you and your retrieving skill can give it. The classic Spook retrieve is called ‘walking the dog,’ and it is produced with a twitch-pause-reel-repeat technique that causes the bait to zigzag across the top of the water. Skilled fishermen can make the Spook zigzag in a controlled, consistent, side-to-side retrieve all the way to the boat or shore. There is no time like the present to practice this technique. Make long casts over likely Bass-holding water. The bait can trigger an aggressive surface hit from a Pre-Spawn, Bedding or Post-Spawn, fry-guarding fish. Try making your long cast (Bear in mind that the treble hooks will grab any snag an inch below the surface!) and then letting the Spook rest until all surface ripples have gone. Begin your retrieve and keep it going all the way back. What does this bait resemble to the Bass? Who knows what’s going on in his fishy little brain!? All I know is that whether he thinks it’s a wounded fish, a snake, a mouse, a bird, a bat, a salamander or some other hapless prey, big Bass will attack it viciously. You may see a swirl, a hump of water or slight wave movement indicating that Mr. Largemouth is heading to intercept your offering. Nerves of steel now! Continue your retrieve without stopping! Do not set the hook when the fish first begins to blow up on your bait! Wait! Let him take it down until you feel the line tightening, then cross his eyes and stick him good! In low-light, I use a black Zara with white herringbone pattern. In bright light I go with a blue back and silver or white belly. I have proven to my own satisfaction that the general rule, ‘big bait/big fish’ holds true, so I like the ‘Super Spook,’ but a regular Spook or even a Junior will work at times as well. Hint: Whether topwaters or other ‘hardbaits,’ always, a-l-w-a-y-s, keep a spare rod rigged up with a Texas-rigged soft plastic worm or lizard. If you get a swirl or short-strike on your bait that is not repeated in a subsequent cast, immediately pick up your soft-plastic rig and cast just beyond the area where the fish first hit. Let the soft plastic drop, then retrieve slowly. I have caught quite a few big fish that just couldn’t quite bring themselves to bite again on the big, flashy bait but fell for the helpless looking, subtler bait after revealing their position on a previous cast. Conventional wisdom is that the Spook is a ‘45 minute’ bait for early morning or late evening. Try it during bright daylight hours in the Spring though. Stay at it. It may produce a Spring whopper (Smallmouth go for them too!), and a topwater bite that will bug your eyes out. And never forget that no matter what bait you’re using, each cast is a down payment on your next big Bass! {I’ll be talking specifics about other topwaters at the appropriate times in future articles. In the meantime, how about letting me hear your success stories on the Forums?

By: Bob Larimer, Your Friendly, Maniacal Bassmaster Basics Sportswriter

Pre-Spawn, Spawn and Post-Spawn Largemouth Bass are always a hot topic for committed Bass anglers. In the Pacific Northwest, the topic can almost drive you to distraction. That is because our changeable weather and differing waters can mean that the Spawn runs from early April to July or even later, and not just in separate bodies of water…..but even on the same lake!

Different sides of the lake warm at different times, and different ends of reservoirs reach different temperatures as well. Add to that coldwater springs in some lakes, and runoff from warmwater creeks in others – even the pumping of warm water by landowners from flooded fields into ponds or rivers – and you can get quite a wide-ranging spectrum of temperatures.

The magic temperature that forces Bass into reproductive mode is generally agreed to be 60 degrees farenheight, but fish can spawn in slightly colder or slightly warmer water than that. Once the right temperature is reached, the urge of nature becomes irresistable and Bass begin spawning.

In the same way that a Spring Chinook Salmon is driven by its genetic makeup to run up the Columbia from the ocean, seeking out its home spawning tributary and completing its life cycle, Largemouth Bass must find the right spot, build their nest and spawn when the temperature reaches that magic spot on the thermometer. Luckily for us Bass fishermen, this does not end the fish’s life cycle. It just starts new ones for another generation of Bass that manage to survive and beat nature’s harsh odds to adulthood.

This April started out cold and is warming only slowly. As I’ve mentioned before though, watch your thermometer and weather patterns closely. Warm weather and warm rains can cause a sudden jump in temperature. It pays to have a way to check the temperature for yourself. Your boat’s fish finder will tell you the surface temperature. You can also buy a castable glass thermometer that can measure either the surface or deepwater temperatures. They can be found at quality sporting goods stores such as Sportsman’s Warehouse/UFA or flyshops. Experiment with your thermometer and you’ll find quite a gradient from top to bottom at times. This may come in handy as we progress into Summer. More on that in later months.

Water temperatures are ranging from 46 degrees in the Columbia in warmer areas, to 53 and higher in various lakes and reservoirs. This means that most Bass will still be in Pre-Spawn mode. The Pre-Spawn tactics and baits discussed in last month’s column will work just fine, but because we are nearing spawning temperatures – especially for bigger fish – it is good to start including a few baits for the Spawn in your arsenal.

Besides those spinnerbaits and jig-and-grubs for Pre-Spawn, think about soft plastics like lizards, worms and tube baits for subtle presentations in reedbeds, weedbeds and likely spawning areas. Texas rigs, skin-hooked will prove more manageable than Carolina rigs at this time. Dropshotting with small, subtle amounts of lead will work as well.
You may well find spawning beds that appear as well-defined light spots or dark spots (This depends on the composition of the bottom in that area) in comparison with the rest of the area. Take your time and use your polarized sunglasses and you may also catch sight of a fish, or its shape, hovering near a bed. Soft plastics can be dragged over beds or allowed to actually settle into the bed. This may stimulate a savage strike. Bass can also gently pick up the bait and deposit it away from the bed without really ‘eating’ it. For this reason, some recommend brightly colored baits so that you can actually watch what the fish is doing. You will not always have this luxury, so I recommend paying close attention and staying attuned to your line and rod. For obvious biological and sporting reasons, please handle any spawning bed fish carefully at the water level, get the hook out gently and release an upright, rested and revived fish. The fish and all your fellow bass fisherman will be grateful!
Another great bait around the ‘crazy time’ of the Spawn, when big fish can sometimes be the least wary, is the floating stickbait. A Bomber Long A or Rapala in a baitfish pattern such as rainbow trout or perch can be deadly. Look for an opening in a brush pocket, or along green grass growing up out of the water along a point, or over the top of flooded brush and submerged stumps, or along the outside lines of reeds, or over actual beds which you will find about 10 feet out from shore. Hmmmm! Sounds like there are quite a few spots where these baits will work!

You may need to experiment with a larger bait or a smaller bait, or a different color pattern, but the stickbait can be a real producer, and there is no fancy or secret technique involved here. Just find a likely spot like those mentioned above. Toss the stickbait near the grassline or reedline, or beyond the brush or submerged wood. Let it sit. Let all the ripples from its entrance into the water disappear. Let it sit a little more! Often just the appearance of this bait will cause a savage attack. I have actually watched a big bass rise out of the water and pounce downward on my stickbait. Heart attack time!
If no immediate strike occurs, and after waiting as long as you can, gently twitch the bait. As minimal a movement as you can make. Let it sit some more. Repeat this process a few times. This can also be irresistably tantalizing to Bass.
If you still have no bite, move the bait. Don’t reel it down and dive it. Just pull gently and move the bait over the top of the water. Anywhere from 6 inches to a foot or more. Use this time to ‘position’ your bait if you are going after fish hiding in submerged wood. Make use of the time it is directly over your target to twitch it again. This tactic can also stimulate a charging or a sipping bite from the hiding fish.
I was fishing from shore in a backwater of the Columbia, casting to a favorite submerged ’schoolmarm’ or forked log, with some of the forks exposed above water. My brother laughed as I complained about getting my stickbait and its treble hooks ‘too close’ to the exposed wood. Concerned about losing this expensive bait, I held my rod to the side and painstakingly, slowly pulled the bait between two threatening stickups. I thought I had escaped the trap when to my dismay, I came up hard against what I thought was a submerged stick. Wrong! A huge bass had decided that my bait would travel no further past his hideout! When I finally battled the fish in, my brother just laughed and said maybe a little ‘worrying’ was a good thing!
After exhausting your sitting, twitching and pulling reflexes, one last tactic remains: Get your line tight, reel quickly for about 4 or 5 turns of the reel handle, forcing the bait to dive and swim erratically, then stop the retrieve and let up. Often this ‘escaping’ action of your stickbait is just too much for the Bass. Repeat this process back to the boat or your position on shore, if depth allows.
Who knows what your Spawn adventure will be? Get out there, experiment, look for likely spawning areas, and you might be ‘worrying’ about a monster on the line too!
See you next month, when we’ll get into some specifics about topwaters and tactics.

As the days grow longer and the water begins to warm up past 45 degrees, Largemouth Bass are moving up out of their Winter haunts and beginning to look for spawning areas.  This is great news for all of us who like to catch these beautiful, powerful, challenging fish.

Under the proper conditions, some of your greatest successes of the year can come during the Spring. It’s good to bear in mind that as the bigger, smarter fish make their first moves into shallower water and brighter light, they can be very spooky.  Remember not to throw your shadow over them, get your boat too close or make too much noise from the boat or from land. Just a bang from a paddle or a tackle box, or a few rocks clinked together by a misplaced boot, and Mr. Bigmouth will squirt away. These fish have grown to their large size by being cautious.  Stealth is the word! With the powerful, unpredictable influence of marine weather from the Pacific Ocean and/or possible flows of cold Canadian air masses down into our region, planning Spring fishing trips can be challenging.  The ideal condition would be an early, sustained warming trend, a full moon for lake or river fishermen, and high Spring tides for devoted river fishermen.  Watch for warm rains, which will warm up lakes and even the river much faster than warm air temperatures.  I like to remember that fish are not afraid of rain, and neither should I be.  I have caught several very big Bass during warmer, rainy Spring weather. But what we in the Pacific Northwest often get is prolonged chilly spells, with cold rain, snow or hail falling into our water. This time of year it’s best to find areas of shallower water adjacent to deep water. The skinny water warms quicker, and when it begins to climb through 45 degrees and above, fish will seek out that water. These fish are in pre-spawn mode. When the water temperature is between 55 and 65 degrees, Bass get serious about spawning. Whether in the backwaters of the Columbia or in lakes, pre-spawn fish will be cruising the shallows, sometimes even ’setting up’ or remaining in a certain area. Contrary to some reports, a cold front will not necessarily drive these fish back out into deeper water. They often will actually push deeper into cover when this happens. Pre-spawn bass can be found cruising in flooded shoreline brush, or hanging in areas of outside structure – near future spawning sites – such as rocks, rockpiles, underwater humps, stumps, logs or points {Actual spawning flats will be approximately 10 feet out from shore and in stable depths of anywhere from a foot or so to 6 feet, with bigger fish nesting deeper}.  There are several baits that work best for pre-spawn fish. A jig-and-pig or jig-and-grub fished slowly in heavier cover can be very effective. Try a slow, steady retrieve, feeling for a ‘mushy’ slow-down, or a light ‘tick’ as the fish bites. Also try a slow, reel, hop, reel approach, using very gentle twitches of the rod tip to impart a little extra motion to the jig. This bait and these retrieves can also be effective in more open areas right near the heavier cover. Try both. But retrieve s-l-o-w-l-y!  I like to use a little attractant, such as crawdad scent, on my jigs. At this time of year a 1/2 ounce jig in dark brown, dark green or black is a good choice. If the water is not clear, a rattling jig might help. One of my favorites for warmer, pre-spawn water is floating stick-baits such as Rapalas in Rainbow Trout pattern. I don’t do much swimming of the bait, instead I prefer to just toss it into an open area in flooded brush, or near a log or stump, let it sit, then twitch it.  Often the fish will hit before any motion is given to the lure.  If a still bait or twitching do not work, try four or five fast turns on the reel handle, then ease up. This causes the bait to make a shallow dive as if escaping, then pause and begin to rise. Often the Bass will hit just at the slowdown. This same tactic, perhaps with a quicker retrieve, also works well on spawning fish. I am also not shy about using larger baits, 5 1/2 inches or longer. Jointed versions will work well too. Another excellent pre-spawn bait is a 1/2 ounce to 3/4 ounce twin-blade spinnerbait. A black, white or white and chartreuse skirt works well. I like a small Colorado blade in front and a large willowleaf blade in back. I usually use a grub trailer with the tail pointed down.  Even with a grub trailer on, it is often wise to put an additional or ‘trailer hook’ on behind the spinnerbait’s hook. Cut off a small piece of surgical tubing, put it over the eye of the trailer hook, then punch the spinnerbait hook point through the tubing and eye of the trailer hook, keeping the trailer hook oriented in the same ‘up’ position as the spinnerbait hook.  Soft-biting or ’short-striking’ Spring Bass will often hang up on the trailer hook, when they would have missed the main hook.  ‘Slow-roll’ a spinnerbait by keeping it in relatively constant contact with the bottom, bumping and banging its way over the cover. It will act somewhat like a jig, only with additional flash from the blades. Try a big crankbait as well. Chrome, baitfish, firetiger, citrus or crawdad colors are good. A stop-and-go retrieve might be just what it takes to make the fish hit.  Try flat-sided as well as the beefier models. Some folks also crawl  or slow-roll a lipless crankbait on the bottom and convince fish to strike. This can be a Winter tactic as well. Try a suspending stickbait. It can be deadly on early pre-spawn fish.  Reel it down and ‘park’ it in a good mid-depth area. Then give it a short ‘rip’ with a moderate lateral sweep of the rod tip. Repeat this process and be ready for the take.  This also works well for Smallmouth Bass. If you sense that your offerings are just a little too much for the wary pre-spawn fish you’re after, don’t neglect the lowly tube bait.  Its non-threatening, do-nothing presentation might just convince a wary fish to go for a quick meal. An eighth ounce or possibly heavier tube jig head in a motor oil and red flake, or possibly watermelon and black flake tube can be good offerings. Retrieve it slowly near the bottom and stay alert for ‘taps’. On the other hand, if you feel confident that the water is warming well, you can throw topwater buzzbaits out on the edges of cover. Agressive pre-spawn Bass will kayo a buzzbait at times, but it would probably be my last choice unless I was sure the water was well on it’s way toward spawning temperatures.

As in Bass fishing at any time of year, pay attention to depth, structure, cover and local land features when you catch a fish.  Look for similar areas as you move from place to place.  And try to stick to warmer water, if you can find it! Try to get out fishing as often as you can this season.  Conditions change – Improve! – quickly in Spring Bass fishing.  You want to be there when that magical time happens!

March and April can be fantastic months for catching big Largemouth Bass. One key is getting started early by doing your homework. Your target species is worth the extra effort, and you may be surprised at how you can improve your Spring success. Don’t waste those eye-crossing, boring, twitchy days of February by just sitting there cursing the snow, fog, rain and bombed-out thermometer and barometer. You have more important things to do besides reorganizing your tackle box for the tenth time. You’ve got preparations to make!

Do you have Google Earth on your computer? If you don’t, I strongly recommend that you download this useful application, and it won’t take long if you have a high-speed connection. With the satellite ‘look-down’ shots you can search out bodies of water near your location, zoom in and study features that might have taken you weeks, months or even years to discover in the old days. The view can be manipulated to show you different ‘looks’ of the same areas, and the clarity of the pictures have really improved in the last few years. Heard of a spot you might like to try? Just plug in the lake, river or reservoir, watch the planet turn, ‘fly’ down and scan around. Sometimes the picture is so good you can even make out underwater structure such as rocks or gravel beds. Very useful! Most of the satellite pictures were taken during summer months in order to take advantage of good weather for clear pictures, so you may want to bear this in mind when considering the typically higher spring water you may be fishing.

Do you have a GPS? Some, such as my Garmin Map 76 Csx, have tide tables, sunrise and sunset times, sun and moon locations, moon phases, compass, barometric pressure and ‘Excellent, Good, Average or Poor’ fishing day and time designations for each day of the year. Hardly seems fair but don’t worry, I can guarantee you the bass aren’t going to roll over and wait to be lipped when they see you holding your GPS unit. I like to scan ahead and look for Spring tides, moon phases and ‘best’ fishing days for upcoming months. When fishing, I also like to mark waypoints when I find a honey hole. They usually produce from year to year under similar conditions.

Most high-end GPS units also have the capacity to accept chips with specialized information. I went online and purchased a chip with Western lakes and streams, which also shows bathymetric information (underwater topography) and even old roads or creek channels through reservoirs. This can be golden, when a few feet of water depth and a crucial underwater feature might make all the difference in locating that lunker bass, or in locating any fish at all under tough conditions.

Another useful GPS tool is the ‘trackback’ feature, especially handy for finding your way back on an unfamiliar impoundment if you fish until after nightfall. My wife was finally impressed with my GPS last November in Mexico, when she needed to find a drugstore in an unfamiliar city. I took us right to it, then tracked us back to our hotel. She quietly said ‘hmph,’ which is the same as anyone else jumping up and down and saying ‘Wow!’

Don’t forget the advantages your home computer can provide. No need to wait for your monthly bass magazine. Most of them usually focus on weather conditions, forage fish species and water temperatures them good old boys down South are familiar with, but won’t happen up here for us until deep Summer, if ever. Try Internet searches on specific bodies of water you want to fish. Look for maps, newer articles, local organizations and forums, and don’t be afraid to trade information with other online bass fanatics. Some of them will gas you, but most are good-hearted people, happy to share helpful pointers. Time of year or month can be included as keywords in your search. You can save or ‘bookmark’ your searches. You can also pull up good articles from online fishing magazines. I like to go back and re-read helpful information from sources I’ve already found. For me, some useful tidbits don’t always ’sink in’ the first time, but once I finally ‘get it,’ watch out!

Maps are still useful tools. I like to fish the Columbia River and some of its tributaries and a good map can be very helpful, not just in navigation, but in reducing the river to fishable, productive areas. My current favorite maps are produced by “Fish – n – Map Co.” They are waterproof, tearproof, writable and sufficiently detailed as to be trustworthy river partners. Did I mention they also have GPS longitudes and latitudes? They also have reliably marked areas with the best Smallmouth or Largemouth fishing – as well as other species – depending on river level and tides.

There is no need to stay home right now. You can put on your longhandled underwear, some warm, waterproof clothes, some fingerless gloves and go out for some coldweather bassing. Try jig-and-grub or jig-and-pig combos in blacks or browns fished very, very slowly. Try suspending stickbaits fished slowly with occasional short ‘rips.’ Try spinnerbaits, slow-rolled. Try deep-digging crankbaits in firetiger, silver or citrus, following bottom countours down, where creeks enter the lake. Get your depth-finder on, look for concentrations of fish in deeper holes and try vertical fishing finesse drop-shot rigs, and vertical jigging spoons. Try rattling lipless crankbaits, ripped along like it’s mid-summer (Don’t know why, but it works sometimes). And don’t be afraid to try – gasp! – live bait like nightcrawlers on baithooks with no lead. Be patient, freeline them down into deep holes that you know contain big rocks, stumps or jumbled logs and limbs. You’ll hang up down there, but you might just hang into the biggest bass of the early season! I’ve caught Largemouth in February, and I know you can too.

Do you have a new spot nagging at the corner of your mind, or have you seen or heard of a place that might hold good bass? Time to study up! Arm yourself with good information, write down some goals for places to visit this Spring, and you’ll be a step ahead of where you were last year when you venture out to find that trophy fish! Hint: Smaller bodies of water and shallower areas of big water will heat up faster in a 3 or 4 day late-winter or early-spring warming spell, and bass do like warm(er) water.

Future articles will contain information on the importance of stealth, hunting a big fish, topwater techniques, modifying baits, lines and line visiblity, bait sizes, nightfishing, tidal considerations, barometric pressure, fishing pre and post spawn, best weedless and finesses soft plastic techniques, improvising and experimenting, river vs. lake fish, and possibly, requested topics}