For every fly fisherman, there are a few infamous lists. A list of fish we haven’t yet, but really want to catch, a list of places we want to fish, or maybe a list of things we want to buy. But no list is as hard to put together as the list of our favorite flies, especially a list of just ten. The other lists are fairly easy to come up with because we know the species we love most to fish for, and for most of us the list of places we want to go, is usually of well known, or highly spoken of locations, and our lists of products usually just includes gear from all the top brands. But our list of favorite flies, that’s tough. There are always a few flies we know will be on the list, but then again there are a few that some of us have come to love, that don’t make it onto most peoples’ top 20. Then there comes the challenge of ranking them. For me, and I know for many others, the favorite fly may not be the most productive throughout the year, it just happens to be our favorite. Maybe because the take is more exciting, maybe because the fly can only be used in a certain, favorite, place, maybe you can’t explain why. It just is. So, for this list, I sat and thought for a good while, and this is what I came up with.

1- The Bunny Leech- Over the past few years, I’ve come to love rabbit fur as a tying material. I have almost completely stopped fishing buggers due to the fact that rabbit hair just gives you so much more movement in the water. Simply put, rabbit hair looks and fishes way better than the marabou/hackle combo of the woolly bugger. I know this is going against the norm, as the bugger is probably the most famous and most used fly ever, but you can’t deny facts, and the fact of the matter is, I have caught more fish on rabbit than I have on buggers. Even terminal tackle fisherman are switching to rabbit hair when it comes to jigs. Choosing this as my top fly was actually the easiest part of the list. It catches the most fish for me. I can put this fly in any water, anytime of the year, and as long as there is a hungry fish around, I’ll catch fish.

2- The Egg Pattern/Bead- For as long as I’ve been a fly fisherman, I’ve had egg patterns in my fly boxes. But until recently, I hadn’t fished them much. A friend of a friend who had spent time as a guide in Alaska told said friend that the majority of the trout caught up there were on egg patterns trailed behind a main fly. So one day we decided to give it a shot. Guess what. We caught the majority of our fish on the trailing egg pattern. Eggs patterns just flat work. That’s all there is to it. Now the reason I included the bead is because the bead works great as an egg pattern, and is a lot cheaper. Plus with a bead, you use a stinger hook, which for me has proven to be very effective on a number of flies. Now I know there are a lot of fly fisherman out there who look down on guys who fish beads and egg patterns, saying that it’s cheating, and that we might as well be using bait. But there’s no scent involved, just a hard plastic bead, soft plastic, ball of chenille or some synthetic hair. It looks like an egg, which is a favorite food of many fish, but the caddis is also a favorite food of many fish, namely the trout, and those guys don’t seem to have a problem with fishing that pattern. I think those guys are just mad that we catch more fish than they do. The old purists don’t like it when some young kid with new school attitude comes out and out-fishes them. Aside from it being very effective, that’s one of the main reasons I love egg patterns and beads.

3- The Elk Hair Caddis- This pattern has become the most used of all dry flies. You can walk into most fly shops and find that this is what they have the most of. The reasons for this being such a popular pattern are that trout LOVE them, and you can fish caddis patterns for most of the year, if not all year. Even if there aren’t caddis’ hatching, you can usually entice a trout into rising to one. If I can’t figure out what to use, or there aren’t fish actively feeding, this is my go-to dry fly.

4- The Parachute Adams- Like the caddis, there’s not much that needs to be said as to why this is one of my favorites, and also one of the favorites of probably all fly fisherman. This pattern can be used for most of the year to get trout to rise, and nothing beats catching fish on the surface.

5- The Stone/Salmon fly (Dry) – This is one of those flies that is among my favorites for reasons other than being really effective for most of the year. In fact, there are only a few months of the year when these flies are super effective (the time of year varies from place to place). This is actually my all time favorite fly to fish, and the only reason it’s #5 is because of the fact that I’m very limited on when I can use it. These flies are usually big, they only hatch when the weather warms up, they need clean water, and fish know when it’s time to start targeting these bugs. So when I’m fishing these flies, it means I’m watching fish take big dries off the surface, the weather is probably really nice, I’m on a beautiful stream, and the fish are hungry for them. Need I say more?

6- The Stimulator- Just like the caddis and parachute Adams, the stimulator is a near year-round dry fly that can get trout to rise. But, unlike the caddis and the parachute, this fly can be used as an attractor pattern, and also to imitate multiple species of aquatic adult insects. The stimulator, in the proper color, can be used to imitate the different stonefly species, the various caddis patterns (usually the October caddis), and even the famed Hexagenia Limbata.

7- The Beaded Stonefly Nymph- The stonefly is the only pattern that made my list both as a dry and as a nymph. The reason for this is fish love big protein packed food, and on rivers where stones hatch, their nymphs are in the water all year long because these bugs stay in nymph form for anywhere from one to four years, depending on species. I prefer beaded patterns because it is known that 90% of a fish’s food is taken under water, and beaded patterns just work better for getting down in the water column.

8- The Scud- I like the scud because they can be fished in a wide variety of places and with a number of different presentations. For me, they have worked best in clear streams under an indicator, but they also work well in still waters. Trout like scuds because they are an easy food source. They don’t move much, but rather just float along, and are available most of the year. Fish typically don’t have to work much to eat scuds, open their mouths and move a little up or down.

9- The Crayfish (aka Crawfish, Crawdad) – This pattern made my list because these crustaceans can be found just about everywhere you find trout. Like I said before, fish like big protein packed meals, and these clawed critters definitely offer that. Another reason I like fishing crayfish patterns is that the strikes are usually a bit more intense. Crayfish are usually fished by stripping, to make it look like it’s in a hurry to get away from something or to get somewhere else. When fish see this and decide it would make a good meal, they turn and chase it down, making for a more violent strike, more predatory. To me the predatory aspect makes fishing these more fun.

10- The San Juan Worm- We all know fish love worms. And we all love to catch fish. Pretty simple. The San Juan Worm was created to mimic the worms of the San Juan River below Navajo Dam in New Mexico, but the pattern works anywhere aquatic worms are found. Some people say that guys who fish the San Juan Worm are just “glorified bait fisherman”. To me this doesn’t make any sense. Like the bead and egg patterns, yeah it looks like a natural food source, but so does a size 4 Rogue Stone. Guys who only fish dry flies fish hopper patterns during summer, they fish caddis patterns all year, midges, BWO’s, and don’t all of those imitate a natural food source? Yes. So what’s the difference? If it catches fish, I’ll fish it. And the San Juan Worm catches fish, lots of them.

I know there are guys who may read this that aren’t going to like me, but I don’t care. Using these flies will catch you fish. And isn’t that one of the main points of fishing? Someone once said that a fisherman is someone who goes fishing no matter what. To expand on that, to me, a fisherman is someone who goes fishing no matter what, and does his best to succeed at the game. The purist guys out there say that fishing beads, egg patterns and San Juan’s is like fishing bait, but those guys fish dries that look just like the bugs that inhabit the rivers and their banks. Before I wrote this I did some research, and looked at peoples lists of favorite flies, and not one out of the hundred or so I saw, included the egg pattern or bead. And only one included the San Juan Worm. So hopefully by reading what’s on my list, you’ll try some of the flies that are different from other lists. If you do, you may get some dirty looks from the purists, but you’ll also out fish most of them. But don’t get me wrong, I’m not trying to make it a competition by catching more fish; I’m just out there trying to succeed at the game. And to succeed is to enjoy one’s self. Doesn’t catching fish add to the enjoyment?

Good luck and good fishing,

FANW Fly Fishing Editor, Cody Lindberg aka Troutbum89

The Cowlitz River is going to be your first and best bet out of the two rivers to pick up some springers. A year ago the estimated return was 4,100 and the run came back stronger than predicted at 4,900. The predicted run this year on the Cowlitz is 12,500 fish, with a spawning need of 1,250 fish. If this return happens it would be double what the 5 year average has been, which pretty much means GAME ON! A majority of these fish are going to be bonked at the mouth of the Cowlitz. The technique best for picking up fish here is to anchor up based on the tides. Every fisherman out there has their own technique and spots of where these fish travel, the rule of thumb is most fish will be in 6-25 feet of water. Find that depth and anchor. There are many lures of choice but Luhr Jensen Kwik fish is the most popular. Sizes K-13 to K-16, with the K-14 & K-15 the most common. The larger sizes are used when the current slows down, the smaller sizes are good when there is faster current. On the belly of your kwikfish place a sardine fillet and attach it using stretchy thread. This will make your plug give off a very oily scent to the springers heading its way. 50″ leaders & 18″ to 26″ lead lines are industry standard. For weight you can use 2 or 8 ounces depending on the depth and current of the water.
If you’re not looking to anchor fish another great way to pick up springers in the Cowlitz is to back troll for them. The method of choice is going to be either back trolling plugs or bait and diver. You’re going to use the same set up as anchored but you will be trolling against the current with your kicker motor slow enough to allow the boat to back down with the current. This can be a very effective method! Launch at either barrier dam or blue creek and work around that area.
If you’re reading this article and getting sad because you don’t have a boat, don’t worry because tons of fish are caught on the Cowlitz by bank fishermen. Plunking is highly effective on this river and there are lots of places to do it. From your fishing pole, use a 15 to 25-pound mainline and two 8mm beads up your line, then tie a size 3 swivel and a 32-inch piece of 30-40 pound mono. Run up a large slider followed by two more 8mm beads and then another size 3 swivel. Tie on another 36-inch 15-20 pound leader and size 2 Spin-N-Glo with two 5mm red beads and a double 2/0 hook. For bait you can use sand shrimp or cured prawns. Some good places to give a chance are the high bank hole, which is located across from Delameter Road just below Four Corners; this is one of the best holes on the river. Another good bet would be the mouth of the Toutle Located on the east side of the river, take I-5 exit 49, head east and take the first left, which is a frontage road. Travel about 2 miles to the parking area above the train bridge at the Burlington Northern-Sante Fe gate, park there and it’s about a mile walk.
The Lewis this year is also expected to get a better than normal Spring Chinook numbers. The forecast a year ago was 2,200 and the actual run was 1,900 which were worst of the decade. This year the expected number back is 6000, which if it turns out could make for a really good year. The hatcheries need 950 spring Chinook for spawning purposes. I talked to Paul Ambrose from Great Northwest Rivers Guide Service (www.greatnwrivers.com) He said that the technique of choice in the north fork is to hover fish, simply put hover fishing is a super slow back troll technique where you “hover” over the hole and wait until you get a bite. Standard technique is to let your bait hit the bottom then reel up 2 cranks and hold it, the bite is not very heavy and you should set the hook after a few “taps”. Most people use cured eggs with sand shrimp. You can do this in any significantly deep hole you find and it will hold fish. I like to also use mackerel and sardine with eggs. Have you heard the saying; “early bird gets the worm.” On the North Fork this can really pay off. If you can use bait/diver on Johnson creek flats first thing in the morning that always produces fish, and quite a few doubles. You can also use cut plug herring and sardine and back troll them on this river.
On another note the Kalama River hasn’t had the best of numbers in the past years and it looks like the forecast for this year isn’t going to be much better. The 2009 return of 350 was the second worst since at least 1980. The only worse year was 338 adults in 1985. This year a weak 900 fish are expected to return with the spawning goal for the hatchery of 500 spring Chinook. Even with these numbers, talking to Monty Thierry of Reel Adventure Guide Service (www.reeladv.com), he assures me that fish can still be taken, so don’t let that out of your radar for a possible on catching some spring Chinook this year. These fish are the best table fare the great pacific northwest has to offer, and it looks like all these rivers this year are going to put a lot of it on all of our tables! Happy Fishing!
Your Local Fishing Addict,
Marlin LeFever

Published in March 2010 Issue of Northwest Sportsman Magazine

As we prepare for some great salmon fishing let’s talk about a few key tactics to catching more fish. First thing to figure out is where to fish and when, seasoned fishermen already have this down but if you are new to the sport then you better start doing some scouting. There are creel surveys posted by ODFW/WDFW which tell you how many fish were taken from each boat launch, this will get you started. Finding good holding water will improve your odds extremely. Remember that Spring Chinook tend to move very fast upriver so just because an area is good for a few days don’t mean it will produce as well a week later. Tides are also a big factor and will change with each location you decide to fish, watch the tide and know when it changes. Second is to figure out which technique you will be using. There are three techniques that are commonly used while fishing for Spring Chinook: Trolling, Anchoring, and Plunking. Trolling and anchoring should be pretty good below 205 bridge as far down river as Longview bridge. Plunking is going to be really good above I-205 this year because there will be no boats but it can also be done in the lower river.

Trolling seems to be a favorite among the hard core Springer fishermen! This technique is great because it allows you to cover a lot of water and you can go back through the same area over and over again. These fish will start moving upstream rather than holding in a specific location, with trolling you can stay with the fish which will produce better catches. Knowing when the fish move and acting on it is the hard part. Always remember to troll with the tide, not against it. Spring Chinook generally won’t chase bait against the current. Trolling is definitely more costly to fishermen for fuel and bait, but it is a lot of fun and well worth the investment!
Anchoring is a great cost effective way to catch Springers, and it produces quite a few fish when done right. Finding a seam in good holding water is the most difficult part, when you do find your spot its game on! Sardine wrapped Kwik-Fish, Plugs, or herring if the current is strong enough, are the baits of choice. Anchoring is very effected by tides and is normally only done on the outgoing tide. This technique can be lots of fun when the fishing is hot but it can also be extremely boring, come prepared with a deck of cards just in case. Also be careful of those sea lions, they tend to steal a lot of fish from anchored boats.

For you guys and gals out there that don’t have boats, Plunking is your best bet! Plunking from the shore is more difficult to take springers than in a boat but can be productive when the fishing is hot. This method is generally done by taking a long bank rod, run a 30” leader to a Spin-N-Glo tipped with sand shrimp or prawn and run a dropper line to a weight(18”-30”), try casting as far as you possibly can to get into the seam. Finding good water to bank fish from won’t be too difficult this year, the complete river between I-205 bridge and Bonneville dam is bank fishing only, this will give the bank fishermen the upper hand when the fish are really pushing through that part of the river.

Spring Chinook fishing in the Columbia River is one of the most anticipated sports among all fishermen in the great northwest. We could see more fish this year than we might ever see in our lifetime and that is just amazing! With our hopes running high and the beginning of the run at our doorstep we should start seeing more fish every day. I hope that everybody has an insane Springer season and let us keep this great sport alive.

Your fellow fishing addict,
Shaun Keller

The rig itself is simple enough: Slide a bullet sinker, egg sinker or barrel sinker up onto your main line. Then put on a bead or two and if you want, a brass ‘clacker.’ Then tie on a swivel, a 10 to 24 inch leader and a good ‘weedless’ soft plastic hook. Being a bit of a bumbler and a bit nervous about too much leader dangling around, I usually opt for about a 12 to 14 inch leader, and I think that works well. Choose the most seductive, prey-resembling soft bait you can think of, add a little scent and Presto! You have an excellent fish-getting Carolina Rig! The pictured rig shows a lizard, but a worm, tube, swim-bait or creature bait can be used just as well. Combine the weedless hook and soft plastic as described in last month’s Texas-Rig article.

Another possibility is the ‘pre-tied’ Carolina-Rig {Pictured}. A wire holds the whole compact assembly together, it comes in an assortment of weights, and it’s a fast way to get into action. Just tie your main line to one end and your leader and hook to the other, and you are ready to fish. Whether using the pre-tied or setting up your own rig, remember that one outstanding advantage of the Carolina-Rig is that without weight, your soft-plastic is free to drift, wave, rise, drop and slither seductively. Fish it with this action in mind and it will help with your presentation.

Most people use bullet sinkers for this rig, but other styles work, including tungsten instead of lead. The main thing is to separate the bait from the weight and add some fish-getting noise. I like to sweeten the pot by adding a glass rattle, inserted into the soft-plastic bait. Insert the pointy end of the glass straight into the thickest area of the bait, then run it parallel up inside the bait, backing the blunt end back inside the plastic so the rattle doesn’t cast out or shake out. This is effective on Texas Rig plastics as well. Unless you are among spooky fish in a highly-pressured area, it helps to have that extra little bit of ‘clicking’ sound to bring in curious Bass.

Both the Carolina and the Texas Rig are great for fishing weedless soft-plastics, but the Carolina really shines when fishing in a less snaggy, more open area with sparser weeds and a cleaner bottom. In this situation, your Carolina is actually functioning as a softer version of a ‘searchbait,’ efficiently sectioning off a larger area and calling up Bass that happen to be in the vicinity of each cast. This is classic Carolina territory, and stirring up a commotion over the bottom, rattling, clicking, clacking, then pulling a tasty looking morsel right into the area where the noise is attracting fish…..Get ready to set the hook! Avoid being too twitchy, though. Don’t rear back on the first ‘tick’ or nibble on your line. Let the fish set up a good pull before you stick him. Otherwise, you can easily take the bait out of the strike zone and change the fish’s mind.

While the open-water approach is great, giving the Bass a maximum opportunity to locate, stalk and examine your Carolina offering, there is another tactic that can be deadly as well. It’s the old ‘Bump the Stump’ ploy. Sure, you can do the bump by hustling along with a spinnerbait, crankbait or Texas-Rigged plastic, but the Carolina Rig gives you one more advantage: Lag time.

If you know where there is a likely stump, small rockpile or other underwater structure, the Carolina can be perfect for delivering a ‘thump,’ then allowing a little hesitation before moving the bait itself into the object or into the fish’s view, then showing the Bass an ‘escape’ action that requires a quick commitment. A less active – or larger Bass with more efficient feeding habits! – fish might still be considering what the noise and flash was all about, as your crankbait or spinnerbait is disappearing off into the murk. But that same fish may well decide to take advantage of a strong hint that something good is coming!

Once you have made first contact with the stump, you can also add a series of short, sharp ‘jerks’ to activate the bait and make more noise and commotion before your whole set-up leaves the area. Another tactic is to make that first thump, then delay any action. Pause and allow the bait to just sit for a couple of beats before moving it again. Often the initial movement after resting the bait will trigger the fish to bite.

Unless you have become ‘expert’ at interpreting your electronics (A skill worth working on!), or have one of the newer ‘high-definition’ fish-finders, you can view your display without actually seeing some subtle features that could be important to a Bass. Or you could be on smaller water and fishing from a craft that does not have electronics. Either way, it’s easy to miss a good, fish-holding feature. Here is where the ‘search-bait’ capability of a Carolina-Rig can come into play. Say you’re in a new area or fishing in water of low-visibility. Allow your rig to slide along, telling you when it finds a stump, rotted-off piling, brush-pile, submerged log, limb or partially-buried boulder.

Once you know where these sunken treasures are, use your Carolina to call up some fish. Or say you know you’re on a scattered stump flat, but you’re not entirely clear on specific locations of good stumps. Fish for them with your Carolina-Rig. Use a little patience, feel around, present that bait in those prime spots that you or other fishermen might otherwise have missed, and you might just be glad you included this tactic in your arsenal!

Whether you want to go after Bass exclusively with just soft-plastics, or whether you want to use everything in your tackle box and explore the entire water-column, using options from hyper top-waters to slow mud-dragging jigs…..Don’t neglect the Carolina-Rig. It might must be the one thing that trips Mr. Big’s trigger!

The Carolina-Rig moves the weight along well ahead of the unweighted bait. Under circumstances we have discussed above, this might be the perfect presentation. But what might happen if we drop or drag the weight behind the bait? Ah! We might be talking about the Drop-Shot rig! Let’s consider this technique next time. Until then, keep your dry side up, your wet side down….And make one more cast!

Your fellow Big Bass-hunting maniac,

Bob Larimer

Fly tying is a great way to spend those cold, rainy winter days when water is too high for good fly presentation (or any other day you can’t spend on the water but thoughts of fish consume your thoughts). Getting started can be relatively inexpensive, too. Most fly shops and sporting goods stores that carry fly tying supplies will have all inclusive beginners sets (some will even include some basic materials) for $50-$90. You can also find these user friendly sets in catalogs like Cabela’s, or Bass Pro Shops, as well as well known fly shop catalogs such as The Fly Shop.

To get started, though, you really don’t need all the tools included in these kits. I like to keep things simple. So for me, the necessities of a basic fly tying set up include a vise, a few bobbins, scissors, a hair stacker, and a dubbing tool. Typical kits also include a whip finisher, a bobbin threader, different sized hackle pliers, and a bodkin. While some of these tools do come in handy, you really don’t need them to get started on tying the flies we all use the most. Although, a whip finisher can be necessary for some people, but there are a few knots that can be tied by hand that are fairly easy to learn.

Your vise is the most important part of the whole set up. I really recommend buying your tools individually, which costs a bit more, but you will have more control over the quality of tools you get, and you don’t get some of the stuff you don’t need. So first off, I highly suggest buying a rotary vise right off the bat. Almost every kit I’ve seen comes with a stationary vise, which is fine if you only plan on tying very basic flies forever. Once you get into tying more though, you are going to want the functionality of a rotary, so you might as well just go with that in the first place. For a good rotary you can spend anywhere from $50 to a couple hundred. DanVice makes a great choice for beginners and veterans alike at about $70. Really any vise will get you going, but the purpose of a rotary is to make tying at different angles very easy.

Next come the tools. Like I said, I like to keep things simple, but we’ll go over most of the tools you can buy, just in case you run into a situation where something else may come in handy. First off, scissors. Good scissors are important. With these, you really do get what you pay for, so I recommend spending a little more for the mid-high priced scissors. Montana Fly Co. and Dr. Slick make some great, long lasting scissors. The next tool is your hair stacker. There are a ton of different styles, but I suggest a brass or steel stacker. A few places sell wood ones, but I don’t feel these work as nicely as a metal one. The third thing on your list, but second most important, is the bobbin. This tool is what holds your spool of thread. Ceramic bobbins are really nice; smoother and more durable than metal ones, but any bobbin will work. As far as dubbing tools go, would go with a dubbing twister and a comb, any brand will do. For the rest of the tools, bodkin, whip finisher, hackle pliers and bobbin threader, just do a little research to see what each one does, and make your decision on whether or not to buy them based on what you find out.

Now we can talk materials. This is where you’ll want to take notes, as there are thousands of materials you can use to tie any fly ever made. You’re definitely going to need thread to tie anything. I recommend going to a local fly shop and having someone help you get set up with a few spools in the most common sizes and colors. Beyond that, you can look at fly recipes to figure out what to use for specific patterns. Then you have hooks, and weights. Buying hooks can look kind of confusing, but basically it just comes down to size and shape. If you know what size flies you want to tie, it’s really easy to figure out what hooks to buy. Brand, though, is big with hooks. I really like Tiemco, Dia-Riki, and Daiichi. Also Mustad, Gamakatsu, Umpqua, and Eagle Claw make great fly hooks. I especially like Gamakatsu octopus hooks for tying egg patterns or for using as stinger hooks on streamers, skaters, and some mice patterns. The weights (used for sub-surface flies) are really important too. For these, just look at the fly you want to tie to determine what to get.

The next subject is what goes onto the fly to make it look like it should. This list includes thousands of options from Deer and Elk hair, to guinea fowl feathers, tinsel to rabbit fur. Deciding what to buy can be very simple, if you know how to figure it out. First off, look at the flies you want to tie. Next, go online and type in the name of the fly on any search engine. Look for results that say something about instructions or recipes. These will give you every detail on the materials you will need, as well as step by step directions on how to tie the fly. YouTube can also be a great reference site for learning how to tie flies, since most people learn better when they can see what is going on.

The last thing you are going to want to buy is glue of some sort. I like normal head cement and Zap-a-Gap. The glue is used to make sure your knot at the head of the fly doesn’t come undone, and also to attach things like eyes, and sometimes wings.

So next time you’re sitting at home looking at swollen rivers and rain, do a little research and go buy yourself a tying set up. You’ll learn a lot about the flies we use and be better at identifying what to use while on the water, and most importantly, you’ll kill the boredom. Good luck and good fishing!

From Left to Right among the pictured baits you can see represented snake baits, worms, grubs, Senko-style stick baits, lizards, tubes, ‘creature baits,’ swim baits and crawdad ‘trailers’, all in various sizes. While you are reading this, someone somewhere is maniacally mass-producing or hectically hand-pouring a new variation of a soft plastic bait, experimenting with different colors, textures, sizes, arms, legs, wings, scales, antennae, claws, fins and tails.

Some baits will realistically mimic a specific fish species such as Bluegill, Shad or Rainbow Trout. Some will look like live crawdads, frogs, leeches or worms. Some will look like nothing that flies, crawls, swims or scurries on planet Earth. But all of them will catch fish and if they are Texas-rigged, they will come through brush, branches, limbs, logs, weeds, moss, pads, reeds and other obstacles that would immediately grab and hang up other baits. They will also move in ways that are unlike other baits, and their look and feel can cause Bass to hang on just a little longer than they would when mouthing a hard, unnatural feeling bait. They also lend themselves well to various, lubricating scents which not only attract fish but also aid in sliding over obstacles.

Texas-rigging, therefore, is mighty important if you want to hunt Bass where they are hiding. Consider: If you were one of those guys standing in the boat pictured, would you throw your bait into that mess? Of course you would! That’s where the fish are!

So how do you effectively ‘Texas-rig’ a soft plastic? It’s relatively easy, and once you figure it out and practice a few times on a medium-sized worm, you will have it mastered. Then you can do it with just about any of the baits pictured, and others as well. Imagine the possibilities! It does not have to get complicated either. Sometimes just a grub, Texas-rigged and skittered across the top of a weedy stretch will produce a hump of water followed by a smashing strike from a fish that thought he was safely buried in weeds. Don’t forget your heart medicine!

To rig Texas-style, first choose a good, sharp hook that will be a match for the size of bait you are rigging. The hooks I normally use range from big 6/0 or 5/0 hooks for larger swim baits, down to 1/0 or even smaller, if I am using a tiny version of, say, a plastic lizard.

When them good old boys down in Texas first started this method, all they had were regular, straight-shanked worm hooks, or they could use a jig hook (Intended to have lead molded onto the bend, up near the eye). That straight ‘L’ shaped bend produced a corner, and in that bend they could secure the head of the plastic worm so that it would not slide down the shank during casting, or while bumping and dragging against cover. Then those ingenious Bassers could bury the point of the hook in the plastic, put a bullet sinker out in front – pegged or un-pegged with a toothpick – and suddenly they were fishing ‘weedless’ and ‘snagless.’ Whether the fish thought the bait was a slithering worm or a darting baitfish, they gobbled ‘em!

As folks discovered just how ingenious and effective it was to drag a Texas-rigged worm or lizard up and down over submerged brush and through weeds or branches without hanging up, they ignited a demand for Texas-rig hooks that were easier to use and that produced a rig that kept the bait looking straight and natural. The market responded.

All major hook manufacturers have several different styles of hooks that were designed specifically for Texas-rigging. I am not a big fan of the bent-shank style of hook, though they work well and come in different gaps, gauges, styles and sizes. They require the angler to run the hook point through the top of the head of the bait, then twist the bait around, hang the head on the bend near the eye, straighten the bait out, line up the bait, and push the point of the hook through the center-line of the body of the bait, either coming near the surface, or punching all the way through, then ‘skin-hooking’ the point back down onto the body of the bait. All this must be done in such a way as to prevent the finished bait from ending up looking twisted, bent, off-center or bulging unnaturally. Done improperly, the head of the bait still does not stay up on the bend. They work fine when you set them up correctly.

I’m not all that patient – especially not in the middle of a hot bite! – and I have a tendency to be fumble-fingered, so my favorite hook will have a separate ‘prong’ with barbs, attached to the hook eye. I really like the Mister Twister version of this hook, and it comes in many useful sizes. I also like Owner hooks that have both a prong and a coil spring around the prong, attached to the eye. These are very effective on some of the ‘slimier’ baits that might slip right off of a single prong. I keep a skeptical eye out for any hook that sports a prong that comes down too close to the hook point. I want the Bass to be able to munch on my weedless hook, push the plastic head of the bait down, swinging the prong down toward the hook shank and away from the point, and then get real nice and closely acquainted with the hook point that is now sticking in under his jaw, or up into his nose. If the point of the prong is too close to the point of the hook, that does not leave a lot of gap or stretching room for the plastic to move and expose a good length of hook point. Sounds fussy, but I’ve proven to my own satisfaction that it can make an important difference in hook-up ratios.

What’s the big advantage of the prong-style Texas-rig hook? The nose of your bait is independent of the shank and hook eye. You simply center up and jab the nose of the bait onto the prong, or jab and twist it on, if it has a coil and a prong, line up your bait in the orientation you want (Some baits have an obvious ‘top’ with eyes up and legs down, a flat ‘bottom’ or even a well-designed ‘hook slot’ on the top of the bait so your hook point can lay outside of the bait, while still remaining hidden, unexposed and safe from weeds and snags. One hint: Though some baits are formed with a flat ‘bottom,’ you can sometimes cause your bait to have a great, erratic, random, darting action simply by rigging with the flat side up. Or if the bait has a flat top, reverse that. This can be killer when fish are ignoring ‘normal’ presentations and might be more prone to react to an unexpected movement. Try it!

Common sense works well in choosing the amount of gap on a hook. If I’m using a slim, straight bait like a worm, I’ll usually opt for a narrower gap in the hook. If I’m going with something bulkier, I’ll use a hook with a wide gap. A wide gap is best for most swimbaits, so that you can rig them to track straight without the hook deforming the bait’s shape.

Want to know a secret about Texas-rigging? When you do get bit and set the hook, that hook is in that fish! A jig might ‘flip’ out of the fish’s mouth on a head-shake, a spinnerbait might ‘twist’ out during an acrobatic roll or change of direction, a treble-hook might simply pull away, simply not having enough ‘gap’ to really grip a good amount of the fish’s face. But a Texas-rig worm hook is going in, penetrating deep, capturing a good amount of flesh or jawbone and then holding well, backed up against the barb. Keep that fish from wrapping around an object down deep and no matter what he does, you are most likely going to have him in your hand!

A quick word on weights: I prefer plain old lead bullet sinkers in various sizes. I usually use the lightest weight I can cast well with. If I have a heavier worm, like a 10 inch Power Worm, I might use no weight at all, allowing the worm to ‘settle’ and move freely in the water. This is especially effective if you have a little current. Let the current press your offering right in under a weed mat, brush pile or log. Wham! Or if I know I’ll be contacting brush or branches throughout a retrieve, I might use a small bullet sinker just to help deflect off of cover and make a little fish-attracting commotion. In heavier river current I might upsize the bullet weight, but most often I go lighter if I can.

You can also use tungsten weights. They work well but they are more expensive, though they do create a sharper knocking sound and that may be helpful on a particular day. Ordinarily, I prefer the soft thump or ‘tick’ of a lead weight. For most applications, I stick a toothpick into the point of the sinker and alongside the line, then snap it off cleanly, flush at the front of the sinker and sitting on top of the hook eye. This ‘pegs’ the weight and gives you confidence that when your lead is contacting cover, your soft plastic offering is doing the same thing in the same spot. Sometimes a slip sinker can be helpful. The above-mentioned grub on the weed-tops seems to do better with a sliding sinker. Experiment and see what you like.

Some bullet sinkers come with a coil extending out of the back of the weight. This can be a great help when trying the ‘Florida’ variation of Texas-rigging. Instead of having the hook up near the head of the bait, you can run the line down through a screwed-in bullet weight, even midway down the bait, then to your hook eye, hiding the hook point as usual. This can produce a different, more horizontal, enticing action and might help it slip through thicker cover. Whether hooked at the head of the bait or further down, have no fear that the fish will bite the hook. I have been able to watch strikes in clear water, and it is amazing to watch a Bass, Smallmouth or Largemouth, as it homes in on the bait and strikes the head and center mass. They are efficient predators, and they know how to attack their prey!

Another sneaky tactic that qualifies as Texas-rigging is to use a floating bullet where a lead bullet sinker would normally be. Usually colored, these can make any soft plastic a surface bait. Fish like any topwater, or hover and twitch a soft plastic over a shallow Bass bed and you can provoke a strike from an enraged fish that thinks it’s defending its offspring! The purple bullet weight in the picture is actually a floating bullet.

As in the picture, there are also some hooks with weight molded right onto the shank. The two shown are from Owner and Gamakatsu. ‘Belly-draggers’ and ‘butt-draggers’ are often used with swim-baits, but they can also be useful for many other soft plastics when a different ‘look’ is desired. Switching from a nose-dive to a horizontal drop might just produce more hits. A combination of a butt-dragger and floating claws on a soft plastic crawdad might just prove too much for a crustacean-munching Bass to resist! Experimentation with all of these possibilities is strongly encouraged. Sometimes just a small change or adjustment might turn on otherwise inactive fish. They’ll let you know!

The water is warming up. Bass are becoming more active right now. In the Northwest, they are starting to move up in the water column and in toward spawning areas. In this pre-spawn mode, as well as during the spawn, soft plastics might be just what you need to put a bend in your rod. You can really improve your odds by fearlessly fishing snaggy areas. So get your Texas on!

Your friendly, fellow Bass fanatic,

Bob Larimer

Just like dry fly fishing, there are many, many ways to fish a nymph. Which one you should use really boils down to how skilled you are in nymph fly fishing and what you are attempting to catch and where you are doing it. Make sense? Probably not, but let’s move forward to give you some idea on the different nymphing techniques available when fly fishing.

Dead drifting-

Dead drifting can be done several ways, the most popular way is under a strike indicator but some people don’t like using one claiming its impure. The purpose of the dead drift is to make your fly imitate a dead insect larva drifting with the current. Fish target these because they’re an easy meal, you can also dead drift attractor pattern flies to grab the fishes attention.

How to dead: simply start by casting upstream above where you think the fish may be laying, allowing time for your nymph to sink into the strike zone. Strike indicators and weights attached to the line are popular tools for reaching the proper depth.

Swinging-

Swinging can be an effective way to cover large amounts of water rather quickly, and also an exciting way to fish because the takes are mostly BAM! Fish on, similar to drift fishing with terminal tackle. The swinging of the nymph for example the stone fly nymph is imitating the male stone flies swimming across the current towards the shore.

How to swing: make your cast strait across the current, usually standing above where you think the fish may be laying, letting the current take the line down, mending at first if necessary to properly present your fly let the fly continue downstream until it reaches its terminal point directly downstream, let sit for a count of three and retrieve take a few steps downstream, and repeat.

Nymphing can be very effective for most all fish, expecially in heavily fished areas where fish strike for food not off aggression, and where water conditions are super clear.

Good luck good fishing.

-Tight-lines

-Troutbum89

I first studied up by reading magazines and watching fishing shows on TV. Then I went out and bought what I thought was a pretty good representation of all the major categories of Bass baits. I got floating stick baits, spinnerbaits and trailers, jigs and jig trailers, various topwaters, and plenty of soft plastic worms, lizards and flukes. All of these strange new baits were fun to look at and speculate about, but the most fascinating to me were the crankbaits. They came in a wide variety of realistic or fantastical colors, weights, shapes, bill lengths and angles – or no bills at all – diving depths and actions.

I had good success with almost all the baits right away, not necessarily boating big Bass, but catching good numbers nonetheless. With one exception, however: I could not buy a bite on a crankbait. What a disappointment! Here was a bait that seemed to hold the very essence of Bass fishing mystique, that was obviously baitfish or crawdad shaped, that wiggled underwater in what to me were very ‘realistic’ ways, that could be cranked right down into the fish’s lair, and that had not one, but two deadly treble hooks attached. And I could not catch a Bass on it.

Whether I cranked the bait through open water, ripped it through weeds, bounced it off of rocks and stumps, plowed along the bottom in the sand or mud, sped it up or slowed it down, I hardly ever got even a bite. My first ‘success’ was a hapless little dink of a fish that somehow got too close and got one point of one treble hook stuck in the top of its head. How humiliating! What the heck were those Bass Pros doing with crankbaits that I couldn’t do?

What I eventually learned was that while each category of Bass bait requires time on the water, and each has a learning curve associated with it, the crankbait demands an attitude of determination, dogged perseverance, curiousity and attention to detail. You can drag a jig-and-grub or a Texas-rigged worm through the weeds, you can strain the water with a spinnerbait, you can sputter or twitch a topwater and learn fairly quickly how to produce a hit on them. The crankbait, not so much.

The key to crankbait success, in my opinion, is lots of specific study and practice coupled with a willingness to develop a ‘feel’ for each type of crankbait in your tackle box. My earlier mistake was to expect such beautiful baits to automatically produce a fish whenever I wet them and turned the handle on my reel. They looked good and produced a satisfying vibration through my rod, so I felt they should immediately grab fish. After a few big buildups and disappointments, I put crankbaits back in my box and went back to what I knew would produce some action. Sure enough, not one of those gorgeous crankbaits ever caught a fish while laying there unused!

But defeat has never set well with me, and those pictures of guys grinning while holding up big, fat, dripping Bass with crankbaits stuck in their jaws just would not stop haunting me, so almost in spite of myself I started paying more attention to articles and shows and advice about crankbaits. It slowly dawned on me that each kind of crankbait, even each size of crankbait, had to be approached with a different mindset. Once I started paying attention I realized that the ‘feel’ of one crankbait could be radically different from that of another. I also discovered that water temperature, water clarity, depth, light levels, available forage and bottom contours all play a role in lure selection and presentation. Line sizes and varieties, along with rod compositions and actions must also be considered.

Maybe all this seems obvious to you, but they say that success can spoil a person and that had certainly proven true for me. I had expected crankbait fishing to be as easy as the other methods I had tried, then I had given up. I urge you not to repeat my mistake if you don’t want to miss out on a great challenge and a lot of fun.

The quality and variety of crankbaits continues to grow, but there are some basic categories that all aspiring anglers should familiarize themselves with: Lipless, floating/diving, suspending/diving, sinking/diving, minnow, and last but not least if you fish the Columbia River for Smallmouth, crawdad crankbaits.

Lipless crankbaits dive because of the flat, downward-sloping surface on the top of the head of the bait. Most contain rattles, with some being louder than others. I was with a friend in his aluminum boat retrieving a lipless bait and it actually produced such a loud echoing sound in the boat that it was irritating. Lipless baits are often called ‘searchbaits’ because their racket and tight, vibrating commotion have a tendency to bring in any active fish in the area. A lipless crankbait retrieved super fast in the Spring in the Columbia can produce jarring strikes from large, aggressive, pre-spawn Smallmouth.

Floating/diving crankbaits are the originals, the ones you see in classic Bass fishing art. Your cranking action causes them to dive and activates their wiggling, vibrating or wobbling action.

Suspending crankbaits are relatively new to the Bass fishing scene, and they can be deadly because of the ability to ‘park’ them momentarily before making them seem to ‘escape’ from an interested fish. They will not rise quickly to the surface as floating baits do, so they allow longer ‘hesitations’ during the retrieve.

Some crankbaits sink like a rock. Most lipless baits are in this category. Some wily Bass fishermen will actually ‘thump’ the bottom with such baits, giving them a vertical or traveling ‘hop’ that can entice fish to bite.

Minnow style crankbaits are designed to resemble baitfish, though some are highly effective in frog or crawdad color patterns.

Crawdad crankbaits come in body shapes that clearly resemble crayfish. These can be deadly when retrieved around rocky, prey-holding areas. No Bass fisherman should ever forget that for both Largemouth and Smallmouth, crawdads are a recognizable, very desirable, high-protein food source. The fish in the picture fell to a River-to-Sea, crawdad-pattern crankbait and hammered it like a fullback on steroids!

Diving actions on lipped crankbaits depend upon the angle, length and width of the bill. A short bill angled steeply down from the head of the bait will produce a shallow diving action. A long bill proceeding straight forward from the front of the bait’s head will produce a steep, deep diving action. Wider and narrower bills will alter the depth and action of the bait. Most manufacturers give you a ballpark estimate of diving depths for each bait.

Not all baits travel straight right out of the package. They can be tuned with a gentle, small redirection of the line-tie eye using needle nose pliers, usually in the opposite direction the bait wanted to angle. An encouraging word here: Baits that quickly come into compliance after a tiny adjustment will usually be your good producers. Don’t be afraid to experiment to get the travel you desire. Some folks do not tune a particular lure and keep a separate spot in their box for a ‘left-hand’ or ‘right-hand’ bait. These can be useful for working a dock or rock wall.

Before purchasing a bait, examine it closely, look for uneven seams, bad paint jobs, loose or un-evenly mounted eyes, suspicious tie eyes or hook mounts. Don’t start out with trouble, if you can avoid it. Some fishermen argue that only the snap ring should be used to tie on to. I believe a snap such as a Duolock attached to the snap ring will give a crankbait better performance, though sometimes they will ‘foul’ on the cast. Balsa or plastic composition is another debatable topic, but I am convinced that an angler who pays attention can make either one perform satisfactorily. Thin bodies on either one usually produce a tighter wiggle. Thick, wide or bulging bodies will produce more of a wobble. Something to consider is that you can order bodies and components online to build your own crankbaits from the ground up. Tempting, during these long dark coldweather days, eh?! If you are interested try Jann’s Netcraft or Barlow’s Tackle online.

The weight, attitude or action of a bait can be adjusted by customizing one or both treble hook sizes. Some anglers will remove one of the bait’s treble hooks for better travel in some kinds of cover. It is possible to use extra weight, such as adhesive-backed Suspend Strips or Suspend Dots by Storm, to get a crankbait to perform better. One of the pictured baits simply refused to dive how I wanted it to. After customizing with Suspend Strips, then clear coating that area, this bait behaves just like I want it to! Because of variations in manufacturing and different lots of the same bait, some baits will simply perform better than others. Those are the beat-up looking, worn old baits in crankbaiters’ tackle boxes!

As I became more effective with crankbaits I usually wanted a larger size, simply because I could keep track of it and feel it better. As my ability improved, I was able to have a good ‘feel’ even for the smaller cranks. For the beginner, I recommend practice with a larger bait at first. I recommend getting out on the lake or river, using your electronics to mark fish, then experimenting with baits and retrieves. Make sure to watch a new bait in clear water, getting an idea of its movements at various retrieve speeds and remembering what those movements feel like to your hands. When you do get struck, remember the water temperature, remember what you were doing, whether steady retrieves or pauses, at what depth, near what structure and at what retrieve speed. Over time you will be able to use this information to choose specific crankbaits for specific conditions.

Do you have that ‘can do’ or ‘never give up’ attitude? Can you keep learning and trying, even if your first efforts are not productive? Are you willing to spend time on the water getting the feel of your crankbaits and what they can do? Then you have what it takes to become an accomplished crankbait fisherman. That ‘cranky’ attitude can pay off in big fish and big fun!

From your friendly, fanatical, Bass fishing buddy,

Bob Larimer

The tiger muskie is a hybrid of the musky and northern pike. Hybrids are sterile although females sometimes unsuccessfully engage in spawning motions. Some hybrids are artificially produced and planted for anglers to catch. Tiger muskies grow faster than pure muskies, but do not attain the ultimate size of their pure cousins as the Tiger muskie do not live as long. The body is often quite silvery and largely or entirely without spots but with indistinct longitudinal bands.

Tiger Muskies are found in lakes across North America. They are solitary predators at the top of the food chain. Known as the fish of 10,000 casts, they can be elusive and frustrating. Those who experience the ferocity of a tiger musky strike will never forget it. It takes dedication, perseverance and practice to become a successful tiger musky fisherman. They are a challenging fish and those who pursue them with a fly rod must be well-prepared.

Tiger muskies will eat anything they can get their mouth around. Their diet includes other fish, frogs, ducklings, muskrats, mice and other unlucky animals. Like most members of the pike family, tiger muskies are an ambush predator. They prefer habitat with structure such as weed beds, rock piles and areas with sharp drop offs. Tiger muskies are notorious for following a fly a long distance before striking. Many fish are hooked less than 10 feet away from the boat.

Most serious tiger musky fishermen use an 8 1/2 to 9 foot, 9-, 10- or 11-weight graphite fly rod. Any large arbor reel with a good drag system will suffice. A heavy weight-forward fly line will quickly load the rod and turn over bulky flies. This allows for less false casting and quick follow-up casts. Consider a heavy sink tip or shooting head when fishing deep water. Fly lines designed for saltwater species often work well for tiger fishing and are available from most manufacturers.

It takes a big fly to get the attention of a tiger muskie. Most tiger muskie flies are 8 to 12 inches long with some topping 15 inches. Streamers and top water flies are both effective. Saltwater poppers and large divers create commotion on the surface and elicit violent strikes. The best color choice is a subject of much debate. Experiment with different color combination’s and don’t be afraid to change flies. White, black, orange, and chartreuse are all popular tiger muskie colors. The mouth of a tiger muskie is tough, bony and full of razor sharp teeth, so make sure your flies are tied on razor-sharp hooks.

Tiger muskies are not known to be shy, so long leaders are not necessary. A 4- to 6-foot tapered leader is adequate. Longer leaders will increase the odds of fooling trophy bass that may chase your offering. Regardless of leader length, a bite guard is essential. There are several brands of notable wire that will stand up to the razor sharp teeth of a tiger muskie. Heavy monofilament in the 60- to 80-pound class will also prevent bite offs. Tiger muskies will often inhale a fly, so make sure your bite guard is at least a foot long.

Keep your casts short-40 to 50 feet is sufficient. This will improve your hook setting ability and help you spot fish that may be following behind the fly. Vary the speed of your retrieve. Tiger muskies are attracted to fast sudden movements, so don’t be afraid of moving the fly too fast. Never stop or slow down the fly if a tiger is following. This is unnatural and often results in a lost opportunity. If a fish follows the fly but turns off it, quickly cast again in the same area. Consider rigging a second rod with a different fly to use on follow-up casts.

It’s almost that time of year when the tiger muskies become most active on the top of the water, so any sunny day we get from here on would be a good opportunity to go try for these monsters! Try fishing at Mayfield reservoir, Merwin, or Yale, all holding good size muskies! Good luck, good fishing! Hope to hear some stories soon!.

-tight lines

-troutbum89

1- By varying retrieve speed, a fisherman can cover the entire water column from top to bottom.

2- The ‘hidden’ hook means spinnerbaits can be deliberately ‘knocked’ into cover, which attracts Bass.

3- The bait can resemble a baitfish, an insect, a bird, a bat, a crawdad and other prey Bass like.

4- In heavier weights it casts like a bullet, giving the shore-bound fisherman a new reach to fish-holding areas and offering the boat fisherman a long-distance search weapon.

5- Blade sizes and shapes can be varied for specific conditions.

6- Skirt sizes, materials and colors can be varied for specific conditions.

7- A hard strike on the bait’s large hook usually means a caught fish.

8- The weighted head can have different shapes, colors and eyes.

9- Spinnerbaits can be dropped, jigged, pumped, hopped, retrieved straight or even trolled.

10- Addition of a ‘grub’ or other trailer can slow the fall rate and change the look and feel fish perceive.

I can think of no other bait that offers so many advantages.

Up here in the North country it can be difficult to find a Spinnerbait weighing more than ½ ounce. Wholesale Sports in Vancouver does have some baits weighing in at ¾ ounce and that is my preferred weight. Unfortunately some manufacturers seem to imagine that a ‘heavy’ Spinnerbait must either be a bottom-dragging bait or a night-fishing option, so often they only have one blade which is usually a ‘thumper’ Colorado-style blade.

I prefer a heavy, twin-blade Spinnerbait. I like the long castability of the heavier bait, I can feel it’s progress through the water, I can feel the blades turning, I can sense how high or low it is in the water column, I can tell what type of cover the bait is contacting, I can even detect a following Bass when the rear blade first ‘tickles’ his nose and this prepares me for the hookset, though often fish crash the Spinnerbait like a freight train with no warning at all. I have had the rod nearly yanked from my hands on Spinnerbait strikes.

After ‘discovering’ the Spinnerbait (I think I saw Bill Dance using them), I first used ½ ounce spinnerbaits and caught fish on them but I soon realized that they were not quite heavy enough for my purposes. Not satisfied with baits I could find in stores or online, I began building my own. Adding up the cost and time spent, I don’t think I am saving any money, but I am creating a bait that does exactly what I want it to. It’s not difficult and I enjoy using free time in the off-season building baits and thinking about what is to come in the Spring.

Choosing skirt and head colors will be up to you, as will your blade shapes, sizes and colors. I believe contrasts can be important. For instance, a different color skirt than grub trailer can be a fish-getter. Also, I prefer a very small Colorado blade in front, with a large willow leaf blade in the rear, again in contrasting colors. I think brass, copper or gold in front and nickel in the back is the best combination. I believe that this combination can look like feeding activity and stimulate fish to strike. Remember that baitfish grow throughout the season. I increase blade sizes as the Summer wears on in order to match the feed Bass are eating.

If you decide to build some of your own baits, here is what you will need:

-Spinnerbait heads and wires. You can really start from scratch and mold lead heads onto wires and hooks or like me, you can simply order pre-painted wire heads in the weight you want. The ones I prefer are not only painted, but they have eyes painted on as well. I prefer ‘open-eye’ Spinnerbaits. They have a bent wire line tie, as opposed to a twisted wire loop tie. I believe that open-eye baits allow the entire wire to ‘pulse’, giving more action to the head and skirt on one side and to the blades on the other.

-Metal or glass beads, plastic spacers, high-quality ball-bearing swivels, wire clevises, blades, skirts- and some kind of wire-bending tool. I simply use my Leatherman Charge tool. It is titanium tough, but the nose on the plier comes down to a fine point, allowing me to make a nice, small loop at the blade end of the wire. Larger loops or twist ties will gather moss or weeds which then foul in the blade, stopping their action. You can obtain all these components from stores, catalogues and online sources such as Jann’s Netcraft or Barlow’s Tackle.

Assembling the pieces can be tedious, and it requires concentration and attention to detail. You don’t want to end up with a bait that is missing a component. But the finished product is a satisfying sight to behold. Just imagine the odd looks you can get from friends and family as they watch you madly assembling and playing with your beautiful lures. I’ve even had ladies hold them up to their ears like jewelry!

The best part? There is nothing quite like the feeling of a jarring, yanking strike on a Spinnerbait that you put together yourself! You have just fooled a fish with a bait of your own creation.

Now that’s real Bass fishing!

Well another September is coming, with its cooling temperatures and shorter days. Bass will go into their weight-gaining feeding frenzies and it will be more comfortable daytime fishing. Take some Spinnerbaits with you, present them in various ways and be prepared to haul in a monster Bass. I often make many, many casts before nailing a good, heavy fish. That’s Spinnerbait fishing.

We’ll discuss another kind of bait next month: The Crankbait. Until then, keep your line tight, your dry side up and your wet side down.

Best of luck from your fanatical Bassmaster friend,

Bob Larimer

If you take a look at my most recent Largemouth picture, you will see that this big female is still carrying eggs and has a sore tail from preparing a bed for the spawn. Definitely a pre-spawn fish. Though all fish do not spawn at precisely the same time, even on the same body of water, I think we will find a similar story in most Southwest Washington waters. Every cloud comes with a silver lining, and the cold rain might just extend some crazy spring Bass fishing. I can deal with that.

The pictured fish could not resist a new River-2-Sea, double-jointed, floating stick bait in Rainbow Trout pattern. I had placed it right next to a corner of flooded brush. She hit near the surface of 3 feet of water after I gave up on twitching the bait. I had just started to move it toward me when she grabbed it and then tried to dive back into the brush. Even in chilly water, this fish had plenty of fight. Three times on the way to the boat I had to wrestle her back out of different spots along the brush line. The water was dingy with new run-off and because of our tangles in the brush, I was not really too sure how big of a fish I was dealing with. After finally being forced away from the shoreline she made a dash for the boat, freight-trained underneath and right out the other side. When I tried to pull her back to my side, I had to pull so hard that I thought maybe she was wrapped on something. No, just a strong, heavy fish. I netted her, amazed at the depth of her body and the thick hump of her back. The backwaters of the Columbia hold such treasures, but finding high enough water and pre-spawn-attractive flooded brush can be a challenge. With all the recent rain, it wasn’t too much of a challenge this time. Who knows? Maybe the water will stay up as the temperature comes up and we’ll have a few more weeks to try such areas?

I still have some more River-2-Sea baits to try out, including some really detailed, realistic salamander imitations, complete with adjustable brush guards. There is also a dandy, sinking, single-jointed Rainbow Trout patterned bait that seductively ‘walks the dog’ underwater with a little practice. It has a hard body, but it comes with a replaceable soft plastic tail. Now that’s attention to detail! If they are as productive as the floating version, I’ll be very pleased. I have not tried them yet but there are also some very highly detailed soft plastic crawdad imitations as well. This new line of baits is available at Wholesale Sports in Vancouver, and I know I’m not the only guy picking them up.

A few weeks ago my friend Ken and I went East up the Columbia Gorge to see if we could find some Smallmouth. We found three foot waves and cold wind, but we also found some good fish. Using the old standby lipless crankbaits, we found fish around the usual suspects: Underwater humps and small rocky islands. Sheer rock walls that work for me in warmer water seemed to hold no fish at all. Though I fished them with confidence, soft plastics such as grubs or tubes produced only a few fish. The water was barely 50 degrees and probably too cold for a good grub bite. But it was great to get smacked by Smallies chasing the crankbaits. Lucky Craft seemed to produce the best, and I also did well with a blue and chrome Rapala and a red Rattle Trap. The size of the fish was nothing to write home about, as you can see in the picture, but the rollicking, racing, yanking fight of a Smallmouth of any size is always a thrill. Just a week later, my friend Josh was able to blast a 5+ pounder in the same general area. It’s just going to keep getting better as the temperature rises, and I recently heard a rumor of Salmon fishermen complaining about ‘nuisance’ Smallmouth hitting their baits!

Every Spring has its own character. Usually May is a dependable, uniformly warming month, but not this year. I suspect that we will snap back into more ‘normal’ weather and a rapid warming spell in the next few weeks. This means that Bass fishermen will need to stay adaptable, ready to hunt pre-spawn or spawning fish, and ready with either foul-weather gear or shorts and T-shirts!

I recommend having several rods baited up and ready to go. Have a stickbait rod, a soft-plastic rod, a spinnerbait rod, a crankbait rod and a top water rod with a Zara Spook, a River-2-Sea floater or a buzzbait ready to tempt surface-striking fish. Low-light hours will probably be better for your top water offerings. Remember, never give up after being short struck on any hardbait. Immediately put a soft plastic such as a worm, a tube, a creature or a lizard right back into that same area. You might just score big on the second strike! Use scents! They work, and the lubrication helps your baits move through weeds and snags more freely. Vary your retrieves, especially with spinnerbaits and crankbaits. Short pauses and bursts of speed will arouse fish more than a steady, predictable retrieve. Remember that Largemouth can have spawning beds anywhere from 1 foot to ten feet deep. If you use your Polarized sunglasses and look for them, you might just find them. When fishing flooded brush during midday, cast to the deepest shade areas and don’t pass up indentations or ‘pockets’ in the brush. Even small changes in a brush line  or any weed line or shoreline – might hold big fish!

If it stays cool and rainy, just put your rain gear on and get out there! I hustled off the water when the thunder and lightning started today, but the rain wasn’t so bad. Catching a nice big fish can make you forget having to wear a raincoat!

Your fellow Bassing fanatic,

Bob

Loomis Lake is the first one I would spend a day on. The lake is a pretty big lake and is just completely full of big largemouth bass. The lake has a pretty good public boat launch, but other than that there is no public access. There is no shore access to the lake at all, the one boat launch has a few places for people to fish but without a boat here, you are pretty much wasting your time. There used to be a nice dock to fish off but as of last year a tree had fallen on it and they did not fix it. The bass in this lake can be very finicky, sometimes its crazy and you will have 20 fish days and other times you will be lucky if you’re able to hook a couple. I have fished this lake since I was a little kid and I have never been able to pinpoint the reason for this but it just happens. The main places you are going to want to concentrate on this lake are the docks and any other wood you are able to find. There are logs and pilings all over the lake for bass to live. Fish all of them; don’t pass any of them, because the one you pass is the one that has a big largemouth on it! Another place the fish like to hide in this lake is the weed bed breaks. The lake has a really bad milfoil problem. The state has tried to get rid of it numerous times but have failed. The bass love it though! There is spots where it’s so thick you can’t get your trolling motor through the weeds but then all the sudden it will just stop…..when you find these spots fish them. The bass suspend just inside these beds and destroy food that crosses their path. The best baits of choice to fish this lake are spinnerbaits on the wood and 5” weightless senkos on the weed beds. After you have spent your time here, head over to Island Lake, it is just a short drive away.
Island is another lake where you need a boat. There is no bank access what so ever. This lake is huge! You could spend all day fishing the lake. I like to launch my boat and head directly east, once you get through the first bigger channel then start concentrating fishing the south shore. The fish in this lake don’t average very big but I think that is just because how many are in the lake. No sarcasm at all, I have caught upwards of 50 largemouths in one day on this lake. Most fish average between 1-3 pounds, with one pound fish being more common. The lure of choice I like to throw is brush hogs. These fish love to hide way up on the bank in thick brush so, casting up on the bank and dragging the bait into the water works very well here. If you get board catching small fish, it’s time to head to Black Lake.

Around 15 mins from Island Lake, Black Lake gets absolutely no pressure from bass fishermen. The main reason this lake isn’t fished is because of the difficulty this lake conveys in catching bass. Not only is the lake very clear, there isn’t a large number of bass in the lake. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout frequently, so the bass in the lake reach very big sizes. I have pulled 2 fish out of the lake pushing 9 pounds. This lake has a trail that goes most of the way around the lake, and yea you can catch a bass sometimes from the bank but your best bet is still going to be from a boat. Launch your boat and head south around the left side of the lake back into the bowl shaped section of the lake. The most effective way in catching the huge bass that live in this lake is drop shotting. Use your electronics and find some of the deep water structure, a hint for you; it’s in about 25 feet of water. Both the big bass I caught in this lake came in deep deep water. Be patient and if you can come back to the lake numerous times in a season you will eventually hook into one of the big guys living here. Now just 10 mins away from Black lake lies Fort Canby.

This beautiful state park has 2 really untapped bass lakes. The one that has campsites all the way around the lake is called Lake O’Neil. This lake is a great lake to fish from the shore just casting weed less frogs. The fish average 2-3 pounds in here with the occasional 5 pounder falling to your frog. I love fishing this lake when I want to just drive to the beach and go catch some easy bass. The lake gets pretty much no pressure so the fish are pretty willing biters. If you have a pontoon boat you can do very well in this lake as well. The other lake in the campground requires a pontoon or other small watercraft. If you head back towards the Yurts in the campground there is a little gravel parking lot with a hiking trail on the left. The trail isn’t much maintained so dragging your boat through here isn’t easy and make sure you bring your bug spray! If you can endure these 2 things you are in for a treat. This lake is chalked full of bass and some really big ones can be taken out of here. This lake is really weedy as well so bring your Spro frogs! Have fun out there and leave some bass for me!

Your local fishing addict

Marlin LeFever

Rod selection for bass is much different than for trout fishing. Trout is more of a slower action rod, and can get away with a 2-5wt rod with any type of line. Bass you want a shorter rod with a stiffer butt and fast action tip preferably 7’6”-8’ in length and in a 7-8 wt with mainly sinking line, or sinking tip to make it easier for casting larger more wind resistant flies.

A fun and action packed way to catch bass as everyone knows, is on top water gear. There is a good variety of top water flies for bass, from poppers to foam frogs to deer hair mice. Popular colors for flies are basically the colors in the rainbow, something that is going to stand out to the bass and say come eat me.

More flies for subsurface are the deke’s bead leg, softshell crayfish, and marabou streamer. The deke’s bead leg is basically a bead head woolly bugger with round rubber legs and can be presented same as a standard bugger although for bass you would want a sinking line, with slow or fast retrieve. Crayfish patterns are best used in a slower retrieve using full sinking line nearer the bottom pausing intermittently. Marabou flies are preferably a mid range fly using float line and a sink tip with a retrieve with short fast strips and pauses frequently imitating injured prey. Mainly fished over weed beds or submerged structure.

Bass are ambushers, they mostly hide out and wait for their prey, so we must go to them. Fish the structures such as sunken logs, rock out-cropping, and docks, find the best ambush points offering some safety and seclusion and typically you will find bass. Not all structure is below the surface either, bass like to sit up under low hanging trees awaiting prey also, lily pads and weed lines are good places to find the aggressive predators also.

During the spawning spring days a good method is dragging sub-surface flies through the spawning beds of bass, but beware their is an angry mother bass watching and waiting.

Bass fishing is an explosive hard hitting experience in itself, add the combo of a fly rod to the deal, and it’s a whole nother ball game. Spring time into the summer months is the best time to fish for these guys, but really there is no better time than the present. Go get your gear, sneak into your neighbor’s frog pond, and give it a whirl (jk always ask permission). Good luck!

written by,

-Tight-lines

-Troutbum89

Drift boats are definitely the most popular and sought after floating device for many reasons. This boat will fit multiple people and tons of gear, which makes it the perfect craft for guiding. Drift boats are also designed to glide easily across the water to make for less strain while oaring. They come in all different shapes and sizes, and are made from many different materials such as aluminum, fiberglass and even wood. Any fisherman can appreciate how comfortable and spacious these boats are, especially when being out on the water all day.

Although there are so many great factors to having a drift boat, I still have couple of issues with them. Drift boats can be extremely loud from bouncing off rocks and scraping bottom which tends to scare fish and let them know your presence. Fishing is all about being elusive and not being seen. Water levels can drop making floating a drift boat very hard if not impossible, then you’re stuck hiking around like everyone else. I also feel that fishing out of a drift boat by yourself can be a little difficult at times, especially launching and loading your boat.

Pontoon boats are not quite as popular as drift boats but are very capable and user friendly crafts. I find that pontoon boats are great for beginners because if you can’t avoid a rock or a log, most of the time you can just go right over it! These boats are also very quiet and can easily be navigated in tight spots. When the river is low these crafts are good to go, they float in 3 inches of water and if you get stuck you can easily drag them to deeper water. When Drift boats can’t float the river, Pontoon boats can!
There are also a few downsides to pontoon boats. With Pontoon boats you are limited to how many fisherman that can float with you, there are 2 and 3 seat pontoons but they are big and can get really expensive. Gear storage can be very limited, and normally you are limited to 1 or 2 fishing rods. There are platforms for a box or a cooler and they usually have a number of pockets but you have to limit yourself to what gear you bring. It also is very hard to pull plugs and bait-diver set ups because lack of hands. If you don’t have an anchor set-up you are usually forced to pull to shore to fish the hole, if there is no bank access I run a rope across the front of my boat so it can’t float away and I wade while fishing.
I hope that this information could help you on your decision on which boat would fit your needs best or maybe both if it’s in your budget. Each boat is a great at floating the river and will do so for many years with the right maintenance. While on your next adventure down your favorite stream, whether it is in a Drift boat or a Pontoon I hope you catch many fish and have a safe float.
Your fellow fishing addict,
Shaun Keller

The East Fork is a great river for all techniques of fishing. The smolt release for this year’s return wasn’t a great one. The release was almost cut in half with only 32,300 smolt released. It’s going to be tough to pick up summer runs in this river, but they will be there. On the river you will see good bobber, drift, plug, and fly fishing water. Two great places to start for bank and boat anglers is Lewisville or Daybreak Park. The float from Lewisville to Daybreak is a really nice float. You can launch at the top of the park and go all the way to daybreak or la center. There is plenty of good water all the way through the float. Daybreak down to La Center is a long float; you will be oaring about 45 mins to an hour once you get to the dead water a few miles below Daybreak. For bank anglers you can park at either of the parks and walk up and down river. There are quite a few spots to fish from the bank. Jig and float fishing is the most popular on this river because of the quality float water up and down the river. From daybreak down, there is a lot of plug pulling water as well as drift fishing sections. Early in the summer you are going to want to concentrate low in the system, as the water begins to heat up, you should start to fish higher in the system cause that’s where the fish will be, trying to survive in the low warm water.
The Kalama should be a different story. With 84,150 smolt released this river is expected to be on fire. I talked with Monty Thierry of Reel Adventures Guide Service (www.reeladv.com) and he said the run this year is going to be a very good one. There are 3 popular floats on the Kalama. The first is from Pritchard’s/Red Barn down to the Slab Hole. Be aware of a large exposed boulder in the rapids just below Pritchard’s ramp. It comes into play as the water drops into summer steelhead time. You’ll need to run the rapids out in the chop to the right of the boulder as there isn’t enough space to clear the rock if you choose the left side. Not an issue if the water is high but as the water drops into summer flows this rock has turned a few boats over in the past. There are some nice runs in this stretch of river, good float and jig fishing just below Pritchard’s rapids and all through Weber’s run. The deep waters of the Upper Bridge hole has good bank access and can be fished with float and jigs up in the fast water at the top of the run and can hold fish all the way to the bridge. The Gazebo run/hole is another boat access only drift that is good for floating jigs/bait as well as divers with bait or small plugs. There is some small pocket water from there to the Slab run/hole that should be fished with floats and jigs.The second good float is the Slab hole to Modrow Bridge. There is good bank access on the Slab hole and can be good for jigs and/or diver bait if you’re in a boat. The lower hatchery run/hole puts out fish all summer long with floats and jigs, as well as drift fishing eggs or shrimp. Just below the hatchery is the Beginners hole with great bank access and is another good float and jig hole with good results for boaters as well pulling plugs or bait divers. Fishing the boulder laden flats below the beginner’s hole with the sun low on the water at first light or late in the day for migrating fish with spinners or floats and dark colored jigs. From this point down there is some limited bank access and better for boaters and can be good plug and bait diving when the water volumes are high enough in the early summer. After the water drops stick to floats with bait/jigs or spinners in the faster white water.
The Washougal River is another smaller SW Washington river that year after year puts out good numbers of summer steelhead. With a smolt release of 64,600 for this year’s return fishermen on this river can expect good fishing results. Highway 14 provides good bank-fishing access to the Lower Washougal, and there are three spots along the lower river where boat anglers can launch to fish. This is a smaller river with lots of boulders so experience is needed for floating this river. When the flows are low on the river it’s not a good idea to even float. The bowling alley hole and cop shop hole are both very good places to fish from the bank. You can find good jig and float as well as drift fishing water by walking up and down the river from either of these spots. The upper shoug can also be very good when the water flows begin to drop. You can find fish trying to survive the heat and low water, in deep pools as well as fast riffles. Casting spinners up here can produce very well.
The Elochoman River is a small river that flows into the Columbia River near the town of Cathlamet, Washington. This river is always a good bet for putting some summer steel on your plate. Fishing this river can be fairly easy just because of its small size, the fish are easier to find. The river should produce a good run this year with a smolt release of 29,200. For such a small river, even if 5 percent returns, you’re looking at a good run. The river is bank fishing only, with most fishing being done below the beaver creek hatchery. It’s best to target the fish as soon as the river opens early in the season, because as the summer goes on and the river drops the fish get very spooked. Later in the summer going higher in the river can produce better fishing. The water between the two hatcheries can be very good water as well as the water above the hatcheries. This river has limited access and a lot of the water is private. Be sure not to trespass and always ask for permission to fish someone’s land. Fishing on the river is primarily done with bobber and jig, but there are a few runs good for drift fishing.
No matter what river you choose to go to in SW Washington you’re going to have a good chance at some summer steel. The good thing about all these rivers is the fact the most of them are fairly close. You can fish the East Fork, and if it’s not producing drive up to the Kalama or down to the Washougal. Fishing for summer steelhead can be one of the most exhilarating fishing experiences. Nothing is like the power and beauty of these awesome fish. I hope that you will be able to create some memories on one of these great rivers.
Marlin LeFever

Summer Steelhead, Salmon, and sturgeon fishing the Columbia River and its tributaries can be an angler’s haven, thousands of salmon and steelhead poor over the dams every year on their journey upstream. Chinook salmon reaching over 40lbs, more steelhead than you can shake a stick at, and lots of keeper sturgeon! It truly is a great time to be fishing this Columbia River fishery.
Summer Chinook fishing is extremely hot! With fish averaging from 16-22 pounds and some well over 30 lbs, you really can’t beat fishing for these monsters. Sardine wrapped kwik-fish and Spinners are extremely productive. This year the season runs straight through July so we get a lot of time to target these huge chromers. Water depth and current flow are extremely important, try to stay in between 8-20ft of water on a normal day but some day’s fish are being caught as deep as 30ft of water. According to the preseason forecast there are almost 90,000 Summer Chinook expected to return to the Columbia this year! These Summer Chinook are by far the best tasting fish and they put up a heck of a fight.
Steelhead numbers over the dam continue to grow! Lots of fish are being caught in the lower river system already and it will only get better. A lot of places allow night fishing as well as day fishing so you never have to stop! Summer steelhead will continue to trickle into our river systems all through summer and into early fall. These fish have tons of stamina and will give you quite a show when hooked! Fishing Spin-N-Glos with sand shrimp, spinners, and small kwik-fish are all great ways to pick up steelhead in the Columbia. When it comes to night fishing, pulling lighted plugs and rigging up a glow in the dark Spin-N-Glo will knock them dead! There are so many fish and a ton of time to go catch them, it is definitely worth it!

Sturgeon is also a hot summer fish on the minds of many anglers! Sturgeon in the Columbia River vary from 20 inches to 20 feet! A keeper sturgeon will have to be within 42inches and 60 inches, making it difficult sometimes to find a fish to put on your dinner table. These fish are very hard fighting (some say the hardest), and taste amazing if prepared right. My favorite is fishing for oversize sturgeon! These monsters average between 6-12ft long, they will tear you up and keep fighting for up to an hour or more. There are many different types of baits used for sturgeon. Sand shrimp, smelt, anchovies, herring, sardines and squid all work well, make sure to use lots of scent also. If you are after the big fella’s then try a fresh whole shad.

We are all very lucky to get to enjoy this great Columbia River fishery. I hope that everybody will help preserve and protect our waters we are so fortunate to have here in the great northwest and enjoy every last minute you have on them. Whether its salmon, steelhead, or sturgeon fishing this summer I hope to all the best of luck!

Your Fellow Fishing Addict,
Shaun Keller

In a more primitive day, fisherman could only use gut, hair, silk or string to connect hook to rod. {“Look! Oog have big fish on line! Me stand there too!” – Yes, competition began early…..}

Then came the advent of that space-age material, nylon monofilament. Clear, smooth, strong and relatively small in diameter, mono revolutionized the quality and length of lines that could be wound onto a reel. Fishermen could fool fish in clear water, cast further, troll deeper, fight heavier fish over longer distances and enjoy small, reliable knots on their hooks.

This breakthrough also forced leaps forward in fishing reel technology. No longer were reels just storage devices, and concepts like casting distances, fish-fighting drags, line capacities, gear ratios and specialized features made fishing reel innovations skyrocket in importance. None of the reel features we have discussed in previous articles would be available to us now, without the blessing of modern fishing lines.

Monofilament itself has improved in leaps and bounds. Line diameters have been reduced, knot-strength improved, visibility (or invisibility) enhanced using different colors or properties, and overall consistent quality has vastly improved. These are not the monos of decades ago and they are dependable lines.

Some new lines, such as P-Line CX, incorporate ‘copolymer’ technology and offer a much smaller diameter at the same pound test or line strength. This means easier handling, smoother casting, less line ‘memory’ or coiling, less visibility to the fish and reduced planing of line. CX is also fluorocarbon coated, which also helps hide it from the wary fish’s eye.

I have caught many species of fish on P-Line CX Moss Green, including Salmon, Steelhead, Catfish, Largemouth, Smallmouth and Crappie, and the 20 pound test CX version remains one of my favorites for heavy cover Largemouth fishing.

When there is either moving water, or water pressure on line being drawn through water, it results in an often unwanted rise of baits or trolling riggings toward the surface. A smaller line diameter encounters less resistance and stays down deeper, hence one advantage of small-diameter line. The 20 pound CX diameter compares to 17 or even 15 pound test in other lines, so I can get more line on my spool in a bigger pound test, which is another valuable feature.

The relatively new copolymer lines are a real improvement on ordinary mono. The copolymerization process combines several nylon ‘monomers’ (A sort of hybrid of monofilaments) in a formula that produces a stronger, yet smaller line that reacts less to physical and chemical weakening. This also translates to good abrasion resistance.

I have fished with Silver Thread’s ‘Excalibur’ copolymer and had good success hauling in big Largemouths on it too. It is more expensive than some lines, but the quality is worth it. My brother, ‘Mr. Finesse,’ likes the clear Silver Thread copolymer for his subtle soft-plastics presentations. Other popular copolymer lines include Berkley Trilene Sensation, Suffix, Izorline and YoZuri (http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-FLCOPOLYMER.html). I have not fished them all, but I’ve had enthusiastic reports from other fishermen.

A related but high-tech departure from monofilament and copolymer is ‘flourocarbon.’ While it looks like mono, its chemical structure is quite different. It is made of extruded polyvinylidene fluoride, a material that is denser than mono and copolymer, and has a light refraction almost identical to water itself. This means that in its pure form, fish just can’t see it at all. It also absorbs less moisture, does not stretch as much, and is ‘harder’ on the outside than the above lines. Also, fluorocarbon sinks in water. Doesn’t take much imagination to think of some real advantages here, does it? Some earlier fluorocarbons were a little stiff, but most of them cast quite well. Most manufacturers have at least one fluorocarbon offering. Here is a helpful comparison of various fluorocarbons: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html

Even the best of the new monofilaments, flourocarbons and copolymers suffer from a tendency that many fishermen do not welcome…..Line stretch. Sometimes stretch is a good thing. I like knowing that my copolymer line will stretch a little at the hookset. Most of the time the distance from rod to bait is not that far, and I do not want to tear away a crankbait, topwater or other hardbait from a freight-training monster Bass. Also, at boatside where many fights are lost, and where there is only a short length of line under tension between you and your potential catch, do you want some cushioning when the fish shakes his head? I sure do!

But sometimes you can get too much of a good thing. Some of the older monos will stretch as much as 30% of length when the line is wet. Many monos have been reduced to 25% or even less than 10% stretch. Some stretch percentages are just too much. How far back can you sweep your rod in a hookset, and how long do you want it take before the hook point actually penetrates when a fish is biting? Before you pick one of these lines, take a good length of it and see if you like the amount of stretch. Find one that is acceptable to you.

A newer line that completely eliminates the stretch problem is a complete departure from either mono, flourocarbon or copolymer, called ‘braid.’ It is made by intertwining fibrous material, usually aramid, gel-spun polyethylene or Dacron, and weaving it into a very tough, very small-diameter line. A variation of braid is ‘fused’ line, actually braided fibers that have been fused into what appears and performs as one single strand.

Most braids have a wet-stretch of only 2 to 4 % or less. That means whatever happens at the tip of your rod is immediately happening at the hook, and vice versa. This can give you a tremendous advantage.

Braids are so small in diameter compared to mono and copolymer that line capacity on your reel is no longer a consideration. Braids are very light and have a tendency to float, making them the choice of many bobber and jig fishermen, especially in the high-vis form. There is virtually no line-memory or coiling, and braided line is also extremely long-lasting and tough. This can be a real problem for older rods with softer guides and tips, and for older reels with softer line rollers. Braid can saw right down into them. If you make the mistake of wrapping the line around your hand to yank it, it will cut through your hand too!

In the weight ranges I use for Bass, braid can actually be too small at times. I do not want to waste time on the water trying to get spider-like braid out of snap rings and other terminal tackle, wind knots from wispy lines and breezes are always unwelcome, and I do not want braid pulling down inside of itself on my spool when I put it under pressure. These are some of the drawbacks of smaller pound test braids. I know some fisherman who have resolved these problems and adapted well enough to be big fans of lighter braid, so it could be just my own preferences here.

On big water and in bigger sizes, I find braid to be superior in almost all respects. I have caught 8 ½ foot Sturgeon and big Spring Chinook Salmon on the Columbia River using braids. Sea Lions and other boaters and lines might be a worry, but not this line! Power Pro, Tuff Line, Berkley Spider Wire and Fireline, and P-Line Spectrex are all excellent braids, with only personal choice of color and ‘feel’ of the line itself being considerations. http://www.nextag.com/braided-fishing-line/search-html

Just a warning: Braid will work fine on the new low-profile bait-casting reels, in fact that is one of its strong suits. But remember the power and strength of this line! You can literally deform, bend or collapse a small, super-light, high-quality, floating spool by applying too much force with braided line. Also, line rollers on spinning reels and other reel parts can be susceptible to increased wear due to braid’s tough qualities. Choose your pound test accordingly and remember that your reel, no matter how high-end and well-machined, is not indestructible! Yes, braid really is that strong.

Now with all this information and real-time fishing tests, which line do I choose as my all-time favorite? The winner is . . . You guessed it. It really depends on what I want the line to do in a given situation.

Do I want a great, invisible, quick-sinking, low-stretch, high-sensitivity line for finessing big smart Bass with a subtle drop-shot rig? Then I should probably pick fluorocarbon.

Do I want to jab the hook in deep and cut my way out of tangles of cover with tough, powerful line when fighting a monster Bass that attacked my jig-and-pig? Then it’s time for some braid.

Do I want something that will load up and stretch a little bit on my long-distance casts, allow my crankbaits and spinnerbaits to stay at the desired depth, allow the fish to get a good pull going on my topwaters before I set the hook, and still be a relatively invisible line? Then I’m going with a small-diameter copolymer.

You will undoubtedly find your own favorites for various kinds of fishing.

I for one am very happy that line technology has come so far and allows so many excellent choices for just the right situations.

We’ll talk about which baits to tie these excellent lines onto when the May article comes out. Keep your wet side down and your dry side up, and give a few good, eye-crossing hooksets for me till then!

Fanatically Yours,

Bassmaster Bob

P.S. Please remember that all lines actually last a long time out in nature. They can prove to be cruel death-traps to birds and critters. I often return from fishing trips with someone else’s line wadded up in my pockets to discard later. It’s smart to take good care of your favorite fishing holes!

There is many places to hook up on this river, but it all depends on the water temp. These fish start to migrate up river
in the early spring to begin their spawning cycle. Ideal water temp for these fish to spawn is between 70-80 degrees. Male
catfish select nest sites which are normally dark secluded areas such as cavities in drift piles, logs, or undercut banks.
Males guard the nest and the eggs hatch in about a week. Baby cats remain in the nest protected by the male for another
week. Channel catfish less than 4 inches in length feed primarily on small insects. Adults are largely omnivorous, feeding on
insects, mollusks, crustaceans, fish, and even some plant material. Most channel cats are mature when they reach about 12″.

The fishing on this river when the temp is right can be absolutely lights out! There is 3 main ways to hook up on this river
in the spring time. As the fish move up the river to spawning grounds they can be found in deep pools along the way up river.
Using your electronics you can find some of these deeper slots, anchor above these slots. Your going to want to get your bait
right into the deep holes. Lots of lead, a size 3/0 hook, and chicken liver with lots of scent is the technique of choice
in this situation. You wont hook insane amounts of fish doing this but most of the time the ones you do hook are quality
fish.

The next technique can be very fun when the fish are in. Once you cruise all the way up river to a place that your boat can
go no more, lets pull out the back bouncing gear.With your boat facing upstream, come to a standstill and begin to let your
line out. Once you have hit bottom, continue to let out more line, and work it back slowly.
Your going to want to ease the boat backwards very slowly continually working your rod up and down allowing your presentation
to move back with you. As you pull your rod, you need to feel the weight bounce on the bottom every time.
The bite will be very distinct, sometimes during your pull up, and sometimes on the down fall. For bait on this technique I
like to use very stinky smelt cut into pieces.

The last technique is the most effecitive way to hook catfish in this river. Be prepared to leave your boat on the bank and
hike up to catch fish. I usually lock my outboard and trolling motor up and make sure that there is nothing that can be
easily snatched from the boat. You don’t have to worry about to much traffic up here, but its always better to be cautious.
After you cruise all the way up river a few miles the river turns into a canyon style river. Your going to beach your boat
and hike up river for some lights out catfishing. There is a trail that you can walk really far up the river on the right hand
side of the shore. To hook these fish in the canyon your going to need to bring your drift gear. Any steelhead, or bass rod
will work, but remember there is a chance you will hook a monster so be prepared. I like to use an 8′ 6″ medium rod with
a baitcasting reel. I use slinky weights with a size 4 gamu hook. The bait of choice for drifting in this canyon is going to
be a surprise but its tiger prawn, the store bought prawn that you get from safeway or albertsons. These catfish are up in
this canyon to spawn so they are going to be in some crazy looking water that you would never guess catfish to be in. The fish
are found in rapids, pools and fast drifts. Concentrate most of your time right up against the banks on the rock cliffs.
Be prepared to bring a stringer and a backpack. You will be doing some good hiking. Another warning to everyone is watch out
for rattlesnakes. They love to sun themselves on the rocks up this canyon. I have seen several while fishing up here, so
watch your step. Good luck!

Your local fishing addict,
Marlin LeFever

So this spring I encourage everyone to get out and do a little early fishing on some of the year-round trout waters, like the Skagit, which a portion of is open for all trout, including bull trout. Some of these year-round rivers would be a great place to get some early fishing in because of the fact that most guys who fish these rivers during the winter and spring months are targeting steelhead, making it easier to target trout with smaller streamers and dries. Some other rivers to look into fishing include the Middle fork of the Snoqualmie, which has selective gear rules, and part of the Yakima , which is open year round for brook trout. Also you can find other rivers to fish by doing a little work at home. Get your fishing regulations out and scour the pages for year-round listings, and call fly shops or guides in the areas you want to try to fish.

Preparing for a trip to one of these rivers is a must. I don’t recommend just heading out with your usual gear in hopes of catching fish. Call the local shops to see what they recommend you take with you, let them know where you are from and let them know you when you will be in the area, so they can give you all of the specifics. They may have some hatches that we don’t get this early, or special flies you may have never heard of. Don’t forget to stop at the shops you call and mention that you talked to them on the phone. This is always good because they may not give you all the secrets over the phone, but may be more willing if you actually use the shops, even if it’s just for a few extra leaders or flies.

So let’s talk about some of the things that are always good to take, that most of us already have. Woolly buggers are always a good pattern to throw and they will usually produce fish. Go to any local store that carries flies and check out some of the new developments in these patterns as well, you just might find your new favorite pattern.. You can also always count on the trusted favorite nymphs and dries. There are a lot of hatches that occur at roughly the same time everywhere, like midges or blue winged olives (BWO).

Aside from streams, you also have lakes as an option. Like I mentioned before, we had a pretty mild winter, so a lot of the lakes that would usually still be frozen over are open, and haven’t had much pressure for a while. While the gates may be closed still, you can always hike in with a float tube or pontoon and expect some good fishing. If you find the lake you head out to is still mostly frozen, don’t turn around and go home. Look for places where small streams are feeding in there will usually be enough open water to cast to from the shore. These places can often provide some of the best fishing anywhere on the lake. The fresh water brings in tons of food for fish, causing them to school up around the openings in the ice. Try tying on nymphs or cripples and let them dead drift from the moving water into the deeper still water, and be ready to set the hook because these fish will be hungry. You can also throw woolly buggers imitating smaller fish. There will always be small fish coming into these areas to gorge themselves on the fresh food source in hopes of getting bigger, and the big fish love to eat them.

Another necessary preparation for the summer months to come is checking your gear. If you haven’t fished for a while, things can get kind of worn out and old, mainly your lines and leaders. I always highly recommend buying new line at least once a year, and always use fresh leaders because who knows how long they sat in a store before you bought them and stored them with your trout gear all winter. Flies are always good to check as well. I hate tying on a fly only to find that the hood has weakened from sitting in a box too long. Take a selected amount of flies out and give the hook a little tug, you’ll probably find that some of the cheaper flies have hooks that will break behind the material from being put away wet and rusting out. It would suck to hook a good fish and have the hook break or bend.

Something that people often overlook is checking waders and wading boots. I’ve had waders that were in perfect shape when I put them away, but from being folded up for a while developed weak spots that turned into small leaks. With your wading boots make sure the soles are still in good shape. Sometimes the thread can wear out causing the soles to separate in spots, which can be dangerous in the water. Also check your laces, you don’t want to get out there and have the laces break because you never want loose boots when walking on wet or slippery rocks.

I hope you all will take this advice to heart, and get out there and try some great spring fishing. I know that all hardcore trout fisherman will enjoy themselves, even if you don’t catch fish. Hell, anything beats staying in town daydreaming about the summer fishing we all look forward so much. An early trip and that first fish of the season always makes the time waiting for June go much quicker. So good luck, and good fishing.

Your local Fly Fishin’ Addict, the Troutbum89

A Steelhead fisherman might have one rod for side-drifting, one for pulling plugs, one for bouncing bait and another for jig and float fishing. And if he’s anything like us Bass fishermen, he’ll still want more rods!

The reason is that varying conditions and tactics require varying equipment. It’s just that simple.

When I am fishing a jig-and-pig, I want a stout rod that can take a smash-mouth attack from a big fish, then wrestle him out of heavy cover with enough authority to prevent the him from see-sawing away from me and down into an area of hazardous pad stems, rocks, sunken logs or limbs and make his escape. My brother calls such rods ‘pool cues.’

If I am fishing light soft-plastics or drop-shot rigs and finessing the fish, I want a rod with a tender, sensitive tip that will help me detect subtle taps or movements, yet with enough power to ‘stick’ the hook in when I make my move.

When I am fishing a crankbait, I need a flexible rod that lets the bait work and ‘dance’ in a way that allows me to see and feel the action, making sure that the crankbait is working how I want it to, and that will allow the fish to grab and go, without yanking the lure away before the Bass really has time to crunch it.

When I’m throwing a spinnerbait, the rod must have the flexibility and power to launch the bait as far as I want, and it must have the sensitivity to allow me to feel the bait contacting cover and feel my blades spinning. I have caught more than one Bass because the bait was still coming toward me without resistance, but the blades had stopped turning. Setting the hook – because nothing was happening! – I found that sure enough, a big fish that had taken the spinnerbait and maintained its course and speed was there on the other end!  It is crucial to be able to sense such changes, and a good rod will give you that ability.

Do you want to fish a floating, minnow-immitating stick-bait?  You’ll need a rod that will help you give subtle twitches to the bait, yet will be powerful enough to give you a good hook-set when the time comes.

Sound complicated?  It really isn’t. Choose your line size and application, and you can choose the right rod.

Almost all good rod manufacturers give you helpful information near the butt of the blank.  This includes length, power, line weight ranges,  bait weight ranges and sometimes even specific designations such as ‘Crankbait.’  There will also usually be some information, sometimes on a tag, regarding the composition of the blank and guides.

A fiberglass rod, for instance, might be a good choice for a crankbait rod, though many graphite blanks will perform extremely well too.

Here is some useful technical information about how a rod bends:

http://www.fries-rods.dk/lang/uk/rods_action.htm

And here is more good information about composition and rod flex:

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/rodselection.html

I don’t get too caught up in the technicalities.  I simply look for a rod that will do what I want it to. Most of the time I can tell right away by first deciding whether spinning or baitcasting best suits my application, by looking at the specs on the blank, and finally by hefting, flexing and examining the rod for the characteristics I’m going to need. Sometimes I will do a little research and find out what other fishermen are using for a certain application.

If you live in or around Southwest Washington, another great resource can be found in the Fishing Department at Wholesale Sports in Vancouver.  With combined experience of over 175 years of fishing, the experts there can offer information and suggestions on all species of fish and the right rods to catch them.

You can make a rod serve several purposes, but I strongly suggest that as you become more experienced it is best to demand exactly the right rod for the right situation.  This will give you more success and help you to get more satisfaction out of your fishing.

But then, you’ll still need another rod!  Right?