The Cowlitz River is going to be your first and best bet out of the two rivers to pick up some springers. A year ago the estimated return was 4,100 and the run came back stronger than predicted at 4,900. The predicted run this year on the Cowlitz is 12,500 fish, with a spawning need of 1,250 fish. If this return happens it would be double what the 5 year average has been, which pretty much means GAME ON! A majority of these fish are going to be bonked at the mouth of the Cowlitz. The technique best for picking up fish here is to anchor up based on the tides. Every fisherman out there has their own technique and spots of where these fish travel, the rule of thumb is most fish will be in 6-25 feet of water. Find that depth and anchor. There are many lures of choice but Luhr Jensen Kwik fish is the most popular. Sizes K-13 to K-16, with the K-14 & K-15 the most common. The larger sizes are used when the current slows down, the smaller sizes are good when there is faster current. On the belly of your kwikfish place a sardine fillet and attach it using stretchy thread. This will make your plug give off a very oily scent to the springers heading its way. 50″ leaders & 18″ to 26″ lead lines are industry standard. For weight you can use 2 or 8 ounces depending on the depth and current of the water.
If you’re not looking to anchor fish another great way to pick up springers in the Cowlitz is to back troll for them. The method of choice is going to be either back trolling plugs or bait and diver. You’re going to use the same set up as anchored but you will be trolling against the current with your kicker motor slow enough to allow the boat to back down with the current. This can be a very effective method! Launch at either barrier dam or blue creek and work around that area.
If you’re reading this article and getting sad because you don’t have a boat, don’t worry because tons of fish are caught on the Cowlitz by bank fishermen. Plunking is highly effective on this river and there are lots of places to do it. From your fishing pole, use a 15 to 25-pound mainline and two 8mm beads up your line, then tie a size 3 swivel and a 32-inch piece of 30-40 pound mono. Run up a large slider followed by two more 8mm beads and then another size 3 swivel. Tie on another 36-inch 15-20 pound leader and size 2 Spin-N-Glo with two 5mm red beads and a double 2/0 hook. For bait you can use sand shrimp or cured prawns. Some good places to give a chance are the high bank hole, which is located across from Delameter Road just below Four Corners; this is one of the best holes on the river. Another good bet would be the mouth of the Toutle Located on the east side of the river, take I-5 exit 49, head east and take the first left, which is a frontage road. Travel about 2 miles to the parking area above the train bridge at the Burlington Northern-Sante Fe gate, park there and it’s about a mile walk.
The Lewis this year is also expected to get a better than normal Spring Chinook numbers. The forecast a year ago was 2,200 and the actual run was 1,900 which were worst of the decade. This year the expected number back is 6000, which if it turns out could make for a really good year. The hatcheries need 950 spring Chinook for spawning purposes. I talked to Paul Ambrose from Great Northwest Rivers Guide Service (www.greatnwrivers.com) He said that the technique of choice in the north fork is to hover fish, simply put hover fishing is a super slow back troll technique where you “hover” over the hole and wait until you get a bite. Standard technique is to let your bait hit the bottom then reel up 2 cranks and hold it, the bite is not very heavy and you should set the hook after a few “taps”. Most people use cured eggs with sand shrimp. You can do this in any significantly deep hole you find and it will hold fish. I like to also use mackerel and sardine with eggs. Have you heard the saying; “early bird gets the worm.” On the North Fork this can really pay off. If you can use bait/diver on Johnson creek flats first thing in the morning that always produces fish, and quite a few doubles. You can also use cut plug herring and sardine and back troll them on this river.
On another note the Kalama River hasn’t had the best of numbers in the past years and it looks like the forecast for this year isn’t going to be much better. The 2009 return of 350 was the second worst since at least 1980. The only worse year was 338 adults in 1985. This year a weak 900 fish are expected to return with the spawning goal for the hatchery of 500 spring Chinook. Even with these numbers, talking to Monty Thierry of Reel Adventure Guide Service (www.reeladv.com), he assures me that fish can still be taken, so don’t let that out of your radar for a possible on catching some spring Chinook this year. These fish are the best table fare the great pacific northwest has to offer, and it looks like all these rivers this year are going to put a lot of it on all of our tables! Happy Fishing!
Your Local Fishing Addict,
Marlin LeFever

Published in March 2010 Issue of Northwest Sportsman Magazine

#1. Deep swing with retrieve-

This is an effective way to catch fish in deep water. Stand upstream of the fish, cast across the water and a little downstream. Strip enough line to get your fly to the depth of where you think the fish are holding. Let the fly swing through the drift until its below you. Retrieve the fly at the desired speed, try switching speeds to find one that works.

#2. Dry fly swung-

Cast your fly across the current and down stream a bit, then let the current swing the fly until it is hanging below you. Walk downstream a little to cover all the water fish may be holding. Effective flies for this need to be super buoyant, such as the waller walker and riffle dancer.

#3. Nymphing-

Cast your fly well upstream of the targeted area and allow the fly to drift naturally with the water. Using a strike indicator is suggested and helps keep the nymph at a desired depth. Another trick is to add on a bead trailer about 10inches below the nymph. Make sure the bead isn’t against the trailer hook, this can cause missed hooksets.

#4 Wet fly swung-

Cast the fly across the river and a touch downstream, allowing the current to swing the fly downstream. Take a couple steps downstream to cover all the desired water. Copying the same technique used in trout fishing in streams. An easy method to cover a lot of water.

#5 Wet fly retrieved near surface-

Cast across the river, either upstream or downstream, and simply retrieve your fly by stripping in the line with either long slow strips or short fast strips. And you be the judge on what is attracting the most fish.

Even though steelheading on a fly can be difficult and frustrating, it is definitely one of the most rewarding experiences a fisherman can have. It may seem like an endless struggle to master the arts, but I’ve seen on many occasions avid fly-steelheaders out fish conventional tackle fisherman. Good luck in using these techniques, it takes practice and some dedication to make them effective but I assure you its rewarding in the end. Good luck, watch the back cast, and keep your lines tight.

-tight-lines -troutbum89

Most steelhead anglers have a certain comfort zone they do not like to break, but don’t be afraid to try something new. Get away from places that get fished by a hundred people every day, walk that extra mile upstream to find that secluded hole. Like one of my good friends always says, “I don’t let the fish come to me; I go where the fish are”. If you fish a spot hard for a half hour picking each and every seam apart with no luck then it’s time to move on. Taking that extra effort to get away from everyone else will greatly increase your odds of catching more fish this time of year.

Switching up your gear a little bit is always a good idea. You have to remember that these fish have been in the river for a while now so they have had just about everything thrown at them, so don’t be afraid to try something that might look a little more natural. Also if you have not tried any scents yet this year it might give your bait that little extra to entice the fish to bite, but it can also be your worst enemy so be careful with it. One of my personal favorite tactics for enticing steelhead to bite when they just will not cooperate is tipping my jig with a little bait. It gives you a little reassurance when fishing.

When all has failed and the fishing just really sucks then it’s time to move on. I use times like these to go scout other rivers and look for future fishing spots. If one river is not producing fish, there is another river that is. With a little research online and a few phone calls to local shops you can find rivers and streams that still have lots of fish. This will also help you choose what tactics and gear to use when fishing a river you haven’t fished before.

Finding steelhead is only as frustrating as you let it be. Being a little adventurous and exploring new tactics will pay off if you put in the time and effort. Keep pursuing the elusive steelhead that swim in our rivers and let us do everything we can as fisherman to keep them here.

Your Fellow Fishing Addict,
Shaun Keller

Whether you are a die hard Salmon fisherman, Steelheader or Bassing fanatic, if you have been fishing very long at all you probably have some strong opinions on the relative merits of spinning gear versus bait-casting gear.

I grew up fishing with spinning gear. As a boy I would spend entire Summer days, dawn to dark, wandering up and down the local creek near our home. During the school year I would be back down at the creek, as soon as I could dodge out of old Mrs. Peterson’s class. Using worms I had dug from our garden or crawdads I caught with the worms, I would catch nice Rainbow Trout throughout the year. Many were in the 14 to 16 inch range and one monster was 20 ½ inches long. I came whistling home like Opie from Mayberry and my Dad took one look at that whopper, grabbed his gear and headed for the creek!

Dad was quite the accomplished Steelhead fisherman and had ‘mastered’ the Kalama, Lewis, Washougal and other rivers by the time I was getting good at free-lining worms or crawdad tails into likely seams in Burnt Bridge Creek. He fished with spinning gear, so I did too. The reels we had back then were fairly basic and cheap. But they worked, and we caught fish. I’ll never forget how amazed my Dad, my brother and I were when we saw our first 5 to 1 retrieve reel. It was a D.A.M. Quick and wooee, it was FAST!

On my 8th birthday my Dad walked into my classroom at school with a brand new rod and reel, handed it to me and said: “Let’s go fishin’!” The teacher and the other kids watched with open mouths as I proudly hopped out the door with my Dad (I don’t think anyone could get away with that trick nowadays!). He took me to a couple of his favorite holes on the Kalama river, set me up with an Okie Drifter rig and much to my surprise, I caught two nice hen Steelhead that day. It took me over 7 years to catch another one. Okay, Dad was a little better than me.

When I finally got into Bass fishing – in my forties – I kept seeing guys using bait-casters almost exclusively. I had seen bait-casters up on the Kalama, but Dad and I just considered them oddities and went with what had always worked for us. I would watch Bill Dance and Larry Nixon and other Bass pros on T.V. and look at pictures of them in magazines. With the exception of the Lindner brothers (them good old Northern boys), everyone was using a bait-casting rig. I remember one program when the Lindners were showing how to throw spinnerbaits with bait-casting reels. They seemed surprised at how well they worked.

I was already catching nice big Bass on my spinning gear (My Dad was horrified when he found out I was using 17 pound test line – He regularly caught summer run Steelhead on 4 lb., and he always declared that anyone using more than 8 lb. was just just ‘horsing the fish in!’), but I got curious and bought a low-profile bait-cast reel from a catalog. What a strange contraption! The spool was sitting sideways and it went around whenever you touched the handle, unlike the stationary spool on a spinning reel. It was a Right-hand reel, and I quickly became convinced that the pros must be wizards, because I couldn’t make it work right and it always felt awkward to use. I simply could not duplicate their habit of casting and then switching the rod to the other hand.

It was a revelation when I discovered that you could get bait-casters in a Left-hand version. Since I had always used my Left-hand on my spinning reel, hanging down under the rod, it worked much better for me to have a Left-hand bait-caster, sitting on top of the handle. Also, my right arm is my power or ‘fighting’ arm, so I can battle the fish in the way that is ‘natural’ to me.

So what does bait-casting gear do that a spinning reel does not do, or can not do? For one thing, it fires the line straight off the spool when you cast. The line passes through the line-leveler and there is no spiral of line – an unavoidable characteristic of spinning reels – uncoiling off the reel, then passing through large guides on the rod until it is finally traveling in a straight line. Many people believe this gives the bait-caster an edge in distance casting.

Another plus is that the bait-casting rod has more guides than the spinning rod, because the line passes over the top of the rod, rather than underneath. Since the line is moving straight from the time it leaves the reel, this does not slow the line at all, but it does force the line to follow the curve of the entire rod blank when under tension. When a spinning rod, which has fewer and wider spaced guides, is flexed under tension, the line makes some jagged, angled turns from one guide to the next, without really following the complete arc of the rod. This puts more strain on the line and does not take best advantage of the fish fighting ability of the blank.

One more advantage of the bait-casting rig is its ability to zing your bait out quickly, yet with some practiced ‘feathering’ of the spool with your thumb, it allows the bait to slow to a stop and quietly ‘kiss’ the water at the end of the cast. Once a spinning outfit has launched your bait, your gear is going to crash into the water with a little more force and noise, even if you try to give it a gentle toss. If you are stalking spooky fish, or if you simply do not want to alert your prey to your presence, a bait-caster can be just the thing! The only way to compensate with a spinning rig is to go to lighter gear, which you may not be able to cast as far.

Lighter gear is still the strong suit of the spinning outfit. You can throw very light weights and baits very easily with them. This makes it a cinch to ’skip’ light baits in under low-hanging brush or tree branches, or underneath docks. Bait-casters have traditionally been used for heavier weights and baits, and unless you have one of the newer, low-profile bait-casters, it will be difficult to achieve the same results. Even with the finest of the high-end bait-casters, it will take some practice to ’skip’ light baits without backlashes.

Now we come to it, the misery of the backlash or ‘birds nest.’ No reel, bait-caster or spinning, should ever bring in loose or ’slack’ line. You are just asking for a tangle or stray loop caught in the wrong spot on the reel. As for outgoing line, the spinning reel casts reliably, simply with the release of the line from your finger. The bait-caster, not so much! You must adjust the braking of the spool, or it is very liable to have an over-travel problem, continuing to spin after your bait has hit the water. This will produce a birds nest so glorious it could end or seriously delay your time on the water. Even with the brake adjusted properly, a new breeze can produce enough pressure on your bait and line during flight to cause it to slow, while the spool happily whirls around, throwing out loose line that turns into tight knots.

The best bait-casting reels have more than one kind of braking system. They help you ‘fine tune’ the spool. Some have magnets and/or designs that adjust centripetal force on the spool. Some have other specialties, such as ‘twitching bars’ that allow you to bring in small amounts of line with your thumb without even touching the reel’s handle (One hand twitching or hopping of baits), and some have ‘flipping switches’ which facilitate short-distance ‘flipping’ or ‘pitching’ techniques. Whichever bait-casting reel you choose, it will take some time to ‘make your peace’ with it. But you will enjoy its advantages in various situations.

I now fish with an equal number of bait-casters and spinning outfits when I hunt Bass. I adapt them to my needs, the kinds of baits I am throwing and the conditions I am facing. I still love the spinning reel, but the bait-caster is a welcome addition to my arsenal, and I understand why old Bill Dance loves his. In fact, I fish with Quantums, just like Bill. Other great brands include Shimano, Pflueger, Abu Garcia, Daiwa and others that offer high-end, smooth-casting reels.

Take a look at some common features on the spinning and bait-casting reels in the pictures provided. On the bait-caster you will see the large ’star drag,’ your fish fighting friend, and the smaller brake knob. On the side opposite the brake knob on the Quantum Energy there is a dial for ‘fine tuning’ the travel of the spool. This is a common feature of good reels. The line-leveler at the front of the reel travels back and forth and stacks the line on evenly during the retrieve.

On the spinning reel, the large dial on top of the reel is the drag. On the Quantum Energy shown, the drag is composed of stacked ceramics, making it smooth and uniform in the pressure it applies. The line roller that guides line on and off of the spool should be large and should turn freely, to lessen the sharp turn of line from rod to spool in order to avoid line twist and/or damage. At the rear of the reel, as in most spinning reels, is the ‘anti-reverse’ switch. On good reels, it should be ‘infinite’. That is, it should prevent the reel from reversing, no matter in what position the handle is stopped.

Now is a good time to clean and lubricate your reel, and to spool on new line for the coming season. Consult your owner’s manual for recommendations for your particular reel. I find Quantum Hot Sauce oil and grease to be the best lubricants for my gear.

Next month we’ll talk about fishing rods, line, baits and other gear that Bass fishermen need to consider.

In the meantime, why not go fishing? Come on! It’s not that cold!

The first thing you need to do to even have a chance at one of these fish is to go fish the water that is most likely to hold them. There are a lot of rivers in Washington and Oregon that are capable of producing these big natives. For Oregon waters include the Wilson, Nehalem, Trask, and Salmonberry just to name a few. In Washington your best bet is to focus your time in the Olympic Peninsula. Rivers like the Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel, and Queets. The best time to venture out and give any of these rivers a try is going to be mid February to the end of March. This is when you will have a lot of these big fish in the systems and they will be fairly spread out. Don’t let some of the other rivers in these states out of your head though. There is 20 pound fish to be had in a lot of the rivers. A couple local rivers that I fish have been known to produce a few here and there. The thing to remember is always target these fish when you know they are there. You do not want to waste your time trying and trying early in hopes of getting the first fish, I have done this time and time again, yea you might get lucky, but the fact of the matter is you will probably just get burnt out. March is going to be your best bet so that is what I would focus on if you really want a good chance at these fish. Make sure to check your rules and regs because a lot of these rivers have specific rules and boundaries.

River conditions are going to play another big role in trying to land of these monster steel! In most of these systems the rain and other weather conditions can really change the outcome of what the river is going to look like on any certain day. A lot of these rivers are glacier fed as well, so unexpected snow level drops or temperature changes can also hurt your chances. In most cases the best color to look for when fishing any river system is that brilliant glacier green! This is when fish seem to just be on the tear! The water has good visibility to the fish but perfect for keeping you hidden a little. Most people think that the river level deters them from catching fish, and in some cases it can. What I have found though is that as long as the river holds a good color you can catch fish no matter how high it is. The main thing to focus on is finding places moving slowly or inside seems the fish can sit and rest to get out of the rest of the raging river. Snow is a great thing! If it’s snowing outside it seems to trigger something in these fish, they become really aggressive and move a lot, moving and feeding on the way. Every time I have got out on a day it was snowing was always an amazing day of fishing. Water temperature is going to be another thing you’re going to want to know. If your facing really cold water these fish will most of the time stage up in deeper water and be a lot less likely to move far to feed. You will really need to get your bait right into their nose to entice a bite.

When going after big natives you can use all kinds of bait. These fish most of the time are very aggressive. One of the most effective baits for catching these monsters is the pink worm. This bait is very versatile and can be fished under a bobber, drifting, or plunking. My favorite technique is under a float. I like to take a 1/8 or ¼ ounce jig head in pearl pink color. I will use the Berkley 6” pink worm and cut them down right after the collar. This makes for a perfectly looking presentation under the water and these big fish can’t resist it. This technique is extremely effective when the water is that Glacier green color like I was talking about. The other main technique I like to use on these big fish would be spoons. The big flash and flutter of these baits is irresistible to these fish. My preference is the 2/5 ounce Little Cleo in blue/silver pattern. I will take the treble hook off and replace it with a single siwash. You also want to make sure to use a barrel swivel on the eye. Swinging these spoons through tail outs of any water can be very deadly. I also like to flutter them down into deep pools. One good trick that most people fail to do is put scent on the spoon. A little smelly jelly in shrimp/anise works wonders!

These beautiful native fish are a thing to cherish! There is nothing like hooking into to one of these beauties. It’s sad to say but the numbers of these fish have really declined in the past years. We all need to do everything we can to conserve these fish so more continue to reproduce. Please always practice catch and release and make sure you take extra care of the fish. If at all possible keep them in the water except for one quick picture and then make sure they swim away strong and on their own to go off to their distant gravel bed and reproduce offspring for you or someone else to catch another day!
Your local fishing Addict,
Marlin LeFever

It’s not that the fish do not want to eat at all. They do, but just not as much or as often as in warmer, more active seasons. And the ‘Strike Zone’? Well, it is pretty much right in front of their noses, even when they are in what passes for an ‘active’ mode in Winter. Even with the urge to eat, or to strike at an irritating, intruding bait, the Bass just can not muster the energy or speed to move very far or very fast. When hooked, most cold water fish are logy and put up a slow-motion fight. But a big fish can still give you a satisfying, worthwhile battle!

The one common denominator of all big Bass is still in effect even in chilly water: They want to use their well-developed, efficient ambush skills to get an easy meal with the least amount of effort on their part, and with the least amount of exposure to possible predators. Experiencing success in these areas is how they have grown so large and stayed alive so long.

While I will discuss warm weather ‘Thermoclines’ later in 2010, the truth is that in our local lakes and streams, Largemouth location will be determined by water temperatures and depths near available food and cover. Cover becomes more scarce in Winter. The lily pads, underwater weeds, cattails, bulrushes, floating weed mats and leafy, overhanging trees and brush of Summer are mostly all gone. Now Bass are reduced to finding hiding places such as leaner logs extending from shore down into the depths, underwater wood such as submerged limbs or stumps, rocks, ledges, deep steep banks and areas in or near underwater creek channels.

Some fish will simply seek the confidence of a lot of deep water over their heads in any area where baitfish are still available. The fish can also take refuge near man-made structures such as bridges, pilings, culverts or shoreline riprap that runs steeply down to sufficient depths. Winter can provide a slight advantage then: Bass are often concentrated in these premium areas during cold months.

Each body of water is unique, but it will possess at least a few of these necessary features that are worth fishing. One Southwest Washington lake has a creek and well defined creek channel proceeding through the lake and down to a dam. The dam area offers steep banks and evergreen trees that still cast shade. Even shore-bound anglers can offer vertical presentations of small plastic worms, leeches, grubs or tubes fished conventionally or on a drop-shot rig here. Drop-shotting might work best, with a heavier-than-normal weight at the bottom that is kept in one place after the cast, while the soft plastic bait above the weight is repeatedly shaken or twitched at intervals. Large, slow-fluttering metal spoons might also tempt a fish, as can a lipless crankbait that is allowed to ’sit and hop’ slowly on or near the bottom. A very slow-moving ½ or ¾ ounce jig and pork frog would also be a good choice. Keeping good contact and ‘feel’ with the bait are extremely imporant. The fish are not going to ‘freight train’ your bait, rocket to the surface and jump cartwheels. They will ‘tick’ or move the line slightly, and a prompt hookset is vital.

At the other end of the lake, the creek is a fairly wide, deep trench entering the lake, with a nearby submerged stump flat making up most of one side of the upper end of the lake. The channel and nearby areas will hold winter fish, and even fish that are not feeding can be susceptible to swatting at a deep-diving, lipped crankbait slowly rooting along through their domain. Start with big baits, then downsize if necessary. Firetiger or Citrus are both good colors for this duty, though chrome and black baitfish imitations might work too.

Middle reaches of the aforementioned lake also offer points and a few rocky or extended riprap areas. There are also some areas with car-sized underwater boulders.

The points will be among my first target areas, simply because I know that points reliably attract Bass year round. The fish only need to travel short distances to find the temperature, depth and feed they like. It may take some zig-zagging runs while watching my electronics, but eventually I’ll find the depth where most fish activity is located along the point. Then I can mount my campaign to fool a big, coldwater trophy. Often, a big, slow-moving spinnerbait will be my first ’search bait.’ Like most lakes, there is a very deep area near a point. This is a good place to look for fish, then go vertical with spoons or drop-shot rigs.

Wherever you fish, on whatever body of water, one good rule of thumb to remember can be found in the advice of seasoned pros: “There will always be a few fish shallow, even in Winter.” Shallow may be a relative term in frigid water, but I would not neglect a few well-thought-out, probing casts into some likely, shallower areas!

As always, remember that a few days of warmer weather and sun on the water can produce enough of a temperature change to lure Bass into shallower areas. Be careful how you approach, don’t spook them, and go get them! I have caught good big Bass in these cold water months, and I know you can too. Remember to dress warm, be prepared for nasty weather, and if you feel yourself beginning to get numb or starting to move clumsily, time to head immediately for hearth and home. The fish will wait until next time!

See you in January, when we’ll talk a little about rods and reels.

First things first, you need to wear a good set of thermal layers and warm socks for they keep your body heat in the best. If you are going to be wading make sure you buy a good set of waders, I regrettably know firsthand that buying a cheap set of waders can make a great fishing trip miserable. If you are not wading try to have a good warm pair of water proof pants. At last make sure you have a nice durable warm coat that is also water proof.

Water conditions will be very dangerous this time of year. Before wading make sure you test the depth and the current of the river. If possible try to use a walking stick for extra support while crossing. One slip could not only ruin a whole fishing trip but put your life in immediate danger. If you are not sure that it is safe then do not do it. Take every precaution possible to make your next fishing trip safe.

We all get pumped and let our minds fill with excitement when the fishing is going to get good but we also need to be extra careful out there, especially now. I hope everyone has an awesome winter of fishing and keeps those lines tight!

The weather has cooled down, but in many places the fishing is still hot, and will continue to be that way for most of the fall. This is also a great time to fish patterns specific to the fall, like the October Caddis. As the name suggests this huge caddis is prolific in October, but you’ll also see them throughout September and into November.

This is one of my favorite flies to throw, because it’s huge size and similarity to the stonefly, which is my all-time favorite pattern. Throwing these flies will usually produce bigger fish, which are looking to fatten up on protein rich bugs, those that diminish during the cold winter months.

Autumn also produces hatches of flies that are common throughout the rest of the year like the Blue Winged Olive, and Quills. The Quills, though, have changed color from a standard blue to dark blue and chocolate. Although not all rivers get these hatches, you’d be surprised to find that maybe the next river or stream over is seeing tons of them.

This time of year is also great for targeting bull trout. These big fish spawn in October through November, and also follow other spawning fish such as kokanee. Egg patterns and big bunny leaches are great patterns to throw at these voracious predators, and they’ll put up a fight like no other trout you’ll find around here.

The fall season though, does have some downsides. The number one is that for the most part the rivers and streams are low and clear, which makes for spookier fish. Another downside is the distance between fish because they are moving so much. Sometimes fish will school up in deeper water, but if you spook one, you usually spook them all. But there are upsides to these downsides. With rivers being low and clear, sight fishing is a lot easier, and is one of the most fun ways to target and catch fish. And with fish being schooled up, you have a better chance of one of the fish seeing and taking an interest in your presentation, that is, if they don’t spook. So when confronted with these conditions, definitely go with a ten foot, lighter leader. If fish still spook to a seamless cast, they’re probably seeing your line. Now it’s time to break out the sharpie and color ten to twenty feet of your floating line (you’re going to buy new line in the spring anyways, right?).

So get out there this deer season and experience some of the best trout fishing of the year. Don’t forget to move around, just because you don’t see fish, doesn’t mean they’re gone. Throw some patterns you’re not used to throwing, but don’t forget about the trusty standbys. Good luck and good fishing.

Your Local Fishin’ Addict The Troutbum89

Fishing for salmon this time of year is a little different but very easy and straight forward. With warm water temperatures, it can be a struggle to get a bite at times. Your best luck will be found in the deeper water where the water will be cooler and fish will be more active. Try and locate water between 40-50ft but be careful not to get into the shipping lane or you and your boat will end up at the bottom of the big C. To start out you’ll want to check the tides for the area you are fishing, because you’re always going to be fishing the outgoing tide. Fishing the outgoing tide will allow you to stay on anchor and for your lure to properly work. The setup is simple, I start with my main line which is around 50 or 65lb braided line. I connect the line to a spreader and then attach my weight. As far as line lengths go, the most typical setup is a 5×5. This means 5ft of leader from the spreader to the lure and another 5ft from the spreader to the weight. Just because a lot of people use those lengths doesn’t mean it’s the only thing that’s going to work so don’t be afraid to vary lengths until you find what is best for the day. All that’s left on the setup now is just run your leader to your lure. The main lure used this time of year is called a wobbler. There are several companies that make these lures, top choices are, the Simons, Alvins, Clancy, and Brads Wobblers. Colors will always vary from day to day so carry a selection. Reliable colors are blue and nickel or chartreuse and nickel. As far as how much lead to use, it will depend on how deep you are and how strong of a tide you have. I will use anywhere from 8-12oz of lead most of the time. Sometimes as an extra attractant you can add scent there are many to choose from but my favorites are shrimp, sardine, WD40 or herring.

With these tactics you now have the basics on how to fish for fall Chinook on the Columbia. All that is left to do is head out to river and put it all to work and enjoy the weather and fishing with your friends Get off the computer now and get out there and put a 40 pound Chinook in your boat!

When I first started steelhead fishing for summer fish I was exclusively all about bobber and jig fishing and that was it for me! One day while out on the river, I was walking into one of my spots and another fisherman was walking out. I couldn’t help but notice that he was carrying a limit of fish! I said, “Good job man, what did you pick those beauties up on?” He said, “I was using a #2 tarnished brass vibrax spinner.” He showed me his lures and I took some pictures for him of his fish, and I went on my way up to my whole. I kept thinking the whole time how I almost didn’t believe that was what he was using. I had heard of spinners doing well but this spinner to me just looked really ugly, like why would any steelhead hit that lure? From then on I was determined to try to catch my first steelhead on a spinner. I had grown up fishing for trout in small streams with spinners so I knew how to fish them, it was just getting to the store to pick up some steelhead spinners and getting back out on the water to fish them. For me the lure of choice was a blue fox in brass color size 2. This spinner from then on out was the most deadly spinner I have ever used for summer steelhead fishing. The first time out I spotted a fish in some low clear water just below a fast riffle. I casted the spinner upstream and let it drift right into him……WHAM!! She almost tore the rod right out of my hand! After a couple acrobatic jumps and good runs, I landed a nice bright hatchery hen. This was my first ever steelhead on a spinner. I began to master the art of fishing with spinners and they became my lure of choice when fishing for summer steelhead in low clear water.

Picking the lure is easy when it comes to summer steelhead. You want something small and something not to bright, as bright colors will often spook the fish. Some choices of lures I would go with are Blue Fox Vibrax in Brass, Copper, Silver and Blue, or Silver and Purple. All of these 4 colors seem to produce. On very bright sunny days you want to use the darker colors like brass and copper. On Overcast days you can get the fish on silver and blue or silver and purple. I like to fish the spinner with light spinning gear. I prefer a 7 foot Certified Pro Lamiglas rod with a pflueger 8035 spinning reel. For fishing line, I use a 6 pound maxima ultra green. Now you’re hooked up and it’s time to get out on the water.

You can fish spinners in almost any kind of water and that is one of the main luxuries of spinner fishing. Spinners are fished best by essentially drifting them through holes. Like any drift set up you want to keep the spinner close to the bottom. Cast the spinner upstream and float it down through the hole all the way to the tail out, slowly reeling it towards yourself the whole time. Once the spinner gets close to the tail out where the water is going to be faster, make sure you slow down the retrieve or give the spinner some line to keep it close to the bottom. Do this through the entire hole, if there is fish in the hole, it will be game on most of time. The other place that you want to make sure to fish the spinner is in riffles and fast oxygenated water. As the summer goes on and a lot of rivers decrease the amount of water they have, fish will be in search of oxygen and cool places to be. A lot of times if you run your spinner through these areas an active fish will not be able to resist the spinner. Don’t wait any longer to get out there and fish spinners for these hard to catch summer steelhead. Right now is the time to do it! Good luck out there! Once the addiction starts it never stops!
Your Crazy Addicted Fishermen Marlin LeFever aka The Bassinpimp

I threw my camo raincoat into the rig for just in case, and headed to the water. As I suspected, the water temperature had dropped significantly, but the SouthWest Washington lake we were fishing is one of my favorite Largemouth producers and I have had success there even in November. Also, it was late afternoon, so surface temperatures had been given a chance to recover a little warmth. So electric-motoring off down the lake in my canoe we went, bucking the wind and searching for big Fall Bass.

Marlin was looking for surviving weedbeds. I was looking for rocks that might still be radiating a little heat. We found a cove that had both and guess what? Fish on! The first was a dinky little volunteer that I could hardly tell was there. But Marlin’s observation was right, that fish gave us hints about his bigger buddies’ hiding places! We caught a few nice fish in several good spots and Marlin had a monster on for awhile, but it somehow managed to escape, defeating Marlin’s best fish playing tactics and my best boat handling skills.

Mostly, I was trying to hold our position by running the MinnKota in reverse so we could both cast to good spots. A few times even the highest speed did no good and we would run helplessly with the wind or spin suddenly, just at the wrong time. Underestimating the force of the wind gusts, I allowed us to be pushed right over the top of some of the most likely fish-holding areas several times. Dumb guy! But it can be that way when the winds of November come early, and at least I managed to avoid the Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald! We were also able to slip through some shallow, confined areas that a bigger Bass boat could not have managed.

As the sun went down and the wind picked up even more, especially on the open lake areas we were trying, we both got a little too cold to stay as long as we had planned. But it was great to be on the water for awhile, and I really got a kick out of watching my friend battle a big Bass out of a weedbed, through several arcing, diving, pumping, drag-yanking runs and in to where I could finally lip him and hand him over. Marlin’s big, happy grin reminded me of why fishermen put up with foul-weather Bassing.

While October can offer some tough fishing and inactive fish, that expedition offered few challenges besides the wind. Slow-moving, grub-trimmed spinnerbaits in obvious places did the trick, but we did try the venerable jig-and-grub combo as well. When conditions do get really tough, jigs and other soft plastics generally produce better than flashier, faster-moving baits. Slow-rolling or dragging a spinnerbait along the bottom with occasional blade rolls will sometimes produce, even in very cold water.

Choosing and using baits in the Fall are best accomplished by keeping water temperature and clarity in mind. When the water gets down into the low 50’s and high 40’s, big Bass will not move far to inspect or pick up your offering. Their metabolism has slowed down and they are just too lethargic to move fast. They can still pull hard and offer a good fight, but usually they just do not have the energy to run far or jump at all. A surface headshake and wallow on top is about the best they can muster.

With the jig-and-grub combo as well as with spinnerbaits, I like to run the head of a 4 or 5 inch grub straight up the shank of the hook and as close to the lead head as I can get it. I always have the grub’s curled tail pointing downward. This helps to keep the tail from fouling on the hook point during the cast and it also lets the tail flutter along the bottom, stirring things up and looking like wiggling, live prey. I also like to keep the grub lubricated with some kind of attractant such as Yum Crawdad flavor, Smelly Jelly Crawdad or in the Columbia River, Smelly Jelly Herring/Salt (Do Bass see alot of herring? No! But I am certain that they like the smell anyway!). The odor seems to help make a difference in how much effort a coldwater Bass is willing to make. Remembering that the bite can be very light, I trim the jig’s fiber brush guard almost even with the hook point. This lets it collapse better when the fish mouths the bait, while still keeping most of the weedless/snagless features of a guarded jig. In really cold weather, I switch to an Uncle Josh pork frog which I believe has a better ‘feel’ and stays more lifelike than cold plastic. Remember to take it off the hook and put it back in the bottle, or it will shrivel into a cement-hard little booger that you’ll have to saw off next time you want to use that jig!

Slowly dragging a weedless 6 inch Texas-rigged Zoom or Power Worm, or a swim-tail Senko in black, white or watermelon seed works if you keep it low and slow, feeling carefully for a slight ‘tick’ or a ‘mushy’ resistance that might just be something more than a weed, stick or rock. As in early Spring, a ‘parked,’ lightly-twitched, slowly-retrieved suspending stick bait can work too. If you are fishing murky water, try a worm rattle pushed into your grub or worm. Just a little extra, subtle noise can help the sleepy fish home in on its target. Often a grub, worm or Senko-style bait will sink quite well with no additional weight. Get used to casting an unweighted soft plastic, and work it very slowly. I believe that a coldwater Bass is more likely to hold onto it longer than a weighted offering. This may be one reason slow-fished tube jigs work so well. They are small, subtle and usually have only a small weight, hidden in the head. The fish feels nothing but lifelike, ’squeezable’ skin.

As strange as it may seem up here in the cold North, Bill Dance’s ‘Dancin’ Eel’ or smaller tadpole version can work in the Fall as well. Even with dying, shrinking weed-beds, the treble hook can be a drawback, but just like crankbaits, the diving bill causes a head-down attitude that can keep you from snagging up if you are careful. Fish in sparse weeds, the edges of brush or weeds, bump it carefully over submerged limbs and logs, or bring it over rocky bottoms. Try cranking it down to or near the bottom, then retrieving slowly. It is not necessary to get the bait vibrating strongly and the tail does not have to ‘wiggle’ frantically. In colder water, I think a slower retrieve mimics a stunned, helpless baitfish more than an eel and it will provoke bites. If the bigger one doesn’t work, try the smaller one. Have several colors on hand.

Here’s an odd little fact to keep in mind when you are fishing in clear water: In cold water, the shape of the Largemouth’s eye changes slightly, resulting in clearer vision. That’s right! He can see better! Use the most lifelike baitfish, worm or crawdad imitating bait you have. And remember that in cold, clear weather, the fish can see you better than he could in warmer months. Don’t spook him by getting too close and showing yourself.

As I was reminded on the last outing, the weather can be unrelenting and unforgiving. Gear up appropriately, wear long underwear, make sure and have wet-weather gear, bring some warm fluids along and try some fingerless gloves or fold-back mitts. The more comfortable you are, the better a fisherman you’ll be.

Is it worth your effort to even go out after Bass in November?

Well I think it is, but let’s discuss that next month!

It’s a known fact that fish take 90% of their food sub-surface, and that terrestrials make up 1% of the 10% of the food they take from above the water. So, why the focus on these big, and usually ugly, patterns? Well, for those of us who prefer on any given day to fish a dry fly, these flies make for some of the most visually appealing fishing. Huge top-water explosions, big fish, and the satisfaction of catching a trout on a pattern not usually on the menu are our reasons.

By the time late July rolls around, the hatches of spring are typically over, and the tricos have yet to arrive. So for the dry fly lover there is only one option: terrestrials. Woolly buggers and nymphs just won’t do when you’re looking for visual excitement. The late summer heat tends to push fish to cooler water, which this time of year means deeper water. But, large terrestrial bugs mean loads of protein to big fish (and smaller fish who want to be big fish). We have learned that by tying on a large land bug pattern we can often entice lazy summer fish into heading to the surface, and have grown to love doing just that.

This time of year also provides more options for our choice of pattern. During hatches fish tend to be a tad picky, taking only a certain pattern, and usually a certain size. This can make for difficult fishing, what with trying to find the exact pattern to use and all. Terrestrial fishing is completely different. There are a ton of choices when it comes to tying one of these on, because usually any large bug from above will produce fish (which is the main goal of fishing, or so I’m told).

These bugs can range from spiders to caterpillars, butterflies to grasshoppers. The most common from my experience is the latter of the four mentioned, but don’t let that stop you from trying something else. Another favorite of large trout is the flying ant, which is a great choice wherever flying ants and trout are found near each other. Try fishing spiders and inchworms where overhanging trees are present, or head to a grassy meadow and throw out a large field mouse pattern. Try bees, ladybugs, beetles, crickets, cicadas, and termites anywhere along the shore or around exposed foliage, try anything you see flying or crawling around in your backyard (seriously anything, I’ve seen guys catching fish on common house/blow fly patterns).

These flies are also a great way to get those new to the sport excited about it. Technique isn’t a huge part of fishing them which is good for rookies. On streams, throw these patterns into slow moving water, usually within a few feet of the shore, since this is where the real thing will usually be found. When this doesn’t work, try a flying bug pattern in pocket water, or tree dwelling bugs under overhanging growth. With such a variety of ways to fish these patterns, you’re going to catch fish, and you’re going to have a blast doing it.

So next time you hit your favorite trout waters, set the streamer and nymph boxes aside, tie on a land critter, and find out for yourself what late summer terrestrial fishing is all about. Good luck and good fishing.

- troutbum89

In the Pacific Northwest, September and even October can be excellent for Bass fishing, mirroring the crazy activity levels of Spring. Fish caught during this time can be much heavier and have much more of a football shape, compared to fish of the same length caught in Spring and Summer. One particularly warm mid-October, I caught 10 Largemouth in a row out of the same small area in a backwater of the Columbia River near Woodland, Washington. I had an appointment to keep so I had to leave without being able to find out how many more would have jumped on my baits, but what a day!

The above is just one benefit of the Fall frenzy: Bass seem to be more concentrated in obvious areas, not dispersed as in Summer fishing. Look for Largemouth attracted to riprap and other rocky areas. Rocks hold heat and radiate it during the cooling weeks of Fall, and Bass begin to look for these warmer areas. I have caught very large fish simply by making casts parallel to riprap shorelines and by running baits through shallow, rocky areas. Crankbaits, spinnerbaits and jig-and-grub (skirted with brush guard) or jig-and-frog combination’s work well in these situations. In clear water, try a swimbait that looks like the baitfish in that area. Rig it with as little weight as possible, but make certain it stays upright and straight, then swim it slowly along the rocks at mid-depths. A recognizable, easy meal will be hard for a Largemouth to resist. Don’t forget to experiment with a topwater bait too. A hardbait or a frog can still work under the right circumstances.

Start with the bigger, flashier lures. If they do not work, or if you get hit but not hung on a fish, go to the swimbaits or the quieter, smaller jig combo, or even a Texas-rigged soft plastic worm or tube bait. If you can be on the water at the beginning of a Fall rain, be there! This often turns on a major bite. My biggest Fall fish have come at such times.

An excellent all-around Fall tactic is to prowl river or lake shorelines from a boat, canoe, float tube, pontoon boat or kayak and simply cast a ½ ounce jig-and-grub to the shore, then drag it into the water and reel slowly, letting the jig bumble along the bottom. Aggressively feeding Fall fish will know what to do! I prefer a multicolor jig such as black, brown and green, with a little touch of red somewhere on the jig or grub. If you are shore-bound, don’t give up! You can still catch big Bass by working the shoreline to the right or left of you, gaining more access by carefully, quietly wading out where possible.

Remember that because of it’s off-center, head-heavy design, the jig is especially susceptible to being thrown if a caught fish gets his head above water and shakes it. The bait will flip out of the fish unless you keep a moderately tight line while the acrobatics are going on. Don’t allow your line to go slack, and don’t try to jerk or ‘horse’ the fish toward you. Just keep the line straight and tight between you and the fish while he’s head-shaking. I like to keep my rod more parallel at such a moment, so there is less of a sharp angle between the tip of my rod and the hook in the fish’s face. It seems to help keep him stuck. Remember that water temperatures and fish activity levels can vary quite a bit from day to day, and from area to area. A faster retrieve might stimulate attacks in one instance, a slower retrieve might be the real producer in another. When you catch a Fall bass, remember what you were doing and at what speed. The fish just gave you a hint!

As the days grow even shorter and colder, as light levels decrease and as the Bass’s metabolism decreases, the Bass will begin to move to deeper haunts and become harder to catch. But not impossible! The ’strike zone’ – distance from the fish in which he is willing to move to take a bait – will shrink, but fish will still need to feed. Slower fishing is called for, but it will still produce fish. We’ll talk about some specific slow tactics and presentations in October. See you then!

BY: Bob Larimer Your Friendly Addicted Bass Fishermen

The hatch generally starts sometime in early July, and stretches through late August. The hatch is triggered by the hot summer days. This is one time of the year when the lakes lunker browns and wary rainbows lose caution when munching on the large insects making them an easier target for the angler.

The hexs begin emerging about an hour before dusk and will last several hours into darkness. Nymphs can be fished along the bottom before the bugs start coming off the water but when you see the bugs swarming all around you theirs your sign to change to the top water. Using an emerger cripple imitation can be especially productive due to the actions the bugs make trying to rid their nymph shell and dry their wings before being devoured and also a dun hex paradrake. If you don’t have any of the specific imitations try large sparkle duns, cripples, or adams flies. The hexs are very bright, they have yellow bodies, and a little yellow in their wings. So any similar shaped fly with yellow should produce. One of my favorite areas to fish in the lake is off the east shoreline, sticking pretty close to the shore. The shrubs growing in the water provide a good place for the bugs to thrive. But you will most likely find them emerging from the water on all parts of the shoreline. It is truly amazing watching the water bubble with huge mayflies trying to dry their wings and fly away, and watching the fish bringing death from below smashing the mayflies time after time. Last year I brought my girlfriend out for the hatch and she isn’t a veteran fly fisher by no means, and she even ended up landing 4 fish in one evening, in my opinion it is by far the best time to fish at Merrill. But I do warn you to be ready for a lot of false hook sets, and curse words to be shouted.

Good luck, see you out there.
-tight-lines.

The hottest day at my house hit 109 in the shade, and I saw on national news that Vancouver, Washington had broken it’s all time record with 108 degrees. But I hit the Willamette above the falls at Oregon City and found many Smallies volunteering to bite soft plastics, crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Rapala’s Shad Rap suspending Rainbow Trout worked great, alternatively sitting it and ripping it. A firetiger DT4 crankbait, bumbling along on the rocky bottom also produced. Gary Yamamoto grubs on ballhead jigs ticking the rocks also worked. Most volunteers were relatively small, but my friend Roy caught a battling 4 ½ pounder that nearly escaped the best efforts of two excited guys to net him. This was all in 100+ degree weather. We found shady spots and hid under the boat’s Bimini top. The river breeze helped out too.

I also fished some backwaters behind islands in the Columbia and caught quite a few Smallmouth. I have heard that the Columbia slough near the mouth of the Willamette is producing a mixed bag of Smallies and Walleyes too. More than one fisherman told me that they are getting big Smallmouth – 4 pounds and above – using topwaters early in the morning. Might be worth a try, if you like the adrenalin rush of a topwater attack!

We’ve got more hot August weather coming, and I don’t think we should let the heat keep us off the water. Also, there is an alternative to broiling in the heat.

Go West, young Bass man!

Many of Washington and Oregon’s coastal lakes and ponds are loaded with Largemouth. Some are hefty fish approaching 10 lbs., and you’ll be fishing in much more pleasant weather. In the past I have fished Loomis, Siltcoos, Takenitch and other coastal lakes, but this Summer I vacationed for a week with friends near Florence, Oregon and we fished a lake a few miles inland that proved to be a real producer. Combining our two families, we rented a home on the lake and were able to moor our boat and canoe at a private dock just across the lawn from the house. What a hardship it was, getting up in the morning, walking over to the boat, motoring a short distance and immediately catching fish!

When we asked an old guy who lives on the lake about launching he asked us if we were Bass fishermen, then informed us that the water was cold and no fish were being caught. We found the launch, got set up at the house, then caught fish at all hours of the day all week long. Can’t blame the guy for trying to shoo us away though!

I am proud to report that I experimented with many types of baits. One of my biggest fish came on a Bill Dance’s Eel. I wanted a more subtle bait in a shallow cove, and the head-wagging, tail-rippling motion of the bait seemed perfect. Also, we had seen quite a few salamanders surfacing for air and the Eel has similar movements. I watched a huge shape move out from under a submerged jumble of limbs and logs, then felt the weight on my line. The treble hook under the Eel’s head did the trick and we had a monster in the livewell! (I have now caught a surprise backwater Chinook Salmon, Largemouth, Smallmouth and a Rainbow Trout on the Dance’s Eel). Jig and grub combos, crankbaits and floating and suspending stickbaits also lured in some good fish. Twin-blade spinnerbaits accounted for most of our bigger Bass and we found that concentrating on points seemed to be the best strategy. Shallow coves produced during low-light hours.

A bit of experience that might help on your next outing: Topwater splashes, chases and slurps might not necessarily mean that topwater baits will produce. On several evening outings on the lake, I noticed lots of noise and motion on the surface. Desiring to be as cooperative and adaptable as possible (I always try to help supply the fish with what they want!), I put on single, then twin-blade buzzbaits. Nothing. I tried a Skitter Pop baitfish imitation using varying speeds and actions. Nothing. I twitched a floating stickbait. Nothing. I tried a Spro frog. Nothing. I tried ‘burning’ a spinnerbait just subsurface through open water where I had seen baitfish being chased. Nothing.

As I was experimenting with these baits I noticed baitfish activity at the very tips of several laydown trees extending out into the lake. Active fish were using the swamped trees to hide from predators. We made a slow, quiet approach to one these half-submerged treetops and I made a cast beyond, then hurried my spinnerbait through the water, letting it bang among the smaller branches. Even without my polarized glasses on, I suddenly saw a big bass torpedo straight up from beneath the treetop and make a vertical hairpin turn as he smashed my bait and headed for the deeps of the lake. By the time I reacted and set the hook, he had already peened himself on the bait and disappeared. He was one of the strongest, best fighting fish of the trip, and we caught several others by using the same tactic on other laydowns. It is possible that the ultra-clear water made open-water surface baits a little too flashy. Also, we had noticed many predator birds such as Cormorants, Blue Herons, Ospreys and Bald Eagles. I saw Eagles and Ospreys tumbling through the air in mock battles, screaming at each other over prime areas. With so much danger in the skies, I think the bigger, smarter fish were reluctant to risk exposing themselves by chasing baitfish out in the open.

If your are prospecting and trying out new areas this Summer, remember to try different tactics. Even though one idea or bait might make sense, there may be some factor influencing the fish in another direction. Use your powers of observation, keep an open mind, experiment and don’t get discouraged. If you keep trying, something will work. Then you can duplicate that success elsewhere on the same water.

I am excited about next month. September can be one of the best months for intercepting turned-on, football-shaped Bass. Book-ending the strategies of Spring can yield deep-bodied, hard-fighting fish that are bulking up for the chilly Winter months ahead.

See you in September!

Your friend,

Bassmaster Bob

This method is extremely deadly and fairly easy to do. Glow in the dark setups can work but to take the hassle of re-charging your gear every several minutes take a look into lighted plugs. There are several on the market the well known ones around the northwest are brads wigglers, Luhr Jensen Kwikfish and Wazzat Spin-n-Glo. This lures are different but all have the same key concept which is they blink in the water. Most of these plugs will blink either green or red and both have been known to have success. Red often times will out fish the green.

When I night fish I like to get on the river while its still light so I can get a better idea of where I am fishing at. Once I have found where I want to be, which is about 8’ to 11’ of water I anchor up and fish into the dark. I like running a 30lb braided line to a barrel swivel. From the swivel run 4ft of a 15lb line to the plug. Being that the wigglers and kwikfish are diving plugs the easiest way to fish these is a method called flat lining. This method means putting no weight on and just letting the plug dive down on its own. This can vary depending on your current in slow water you will want to add weight and keep you lure at the bottom. When flat lining I usually run about 12-20 pulls depending on how deep the spot is I am fishing.

Now as for running spin-n-glos there’s really not too much to the setup. I like running either a single or a double hook setup. With the double hook setup you can run bait such as prawn or sand shrimp which can really trigger a bite depending on their mood. I run my main line down to a 3 way swivel or a spreader either will work. From the spreader I like to run about a 2 foot dropper to a weight. Then from the other end of the swivel about a 4ft leader to the spin-n-glo. With these tactics described you got all the basics you need to know. All there is left to do is get out there and put them to use. Fishing at night will be awesome from not til the end of the summer! Check your local game laws to see if its legal in your local rivers.

By:  Travis Bishop AKA CatchADoradoWithMYCurado

For years I have heard the stories and seen a few pictures of the tiger muskies in Merwin. I always wanted to go try it out and see if I could catch one. I don’t know if it was the fact that everyone said they were impossible to catch, that made me not try or just the fact that I fish for so many other species I just didn’t have the time. Needless to say, I’m disappointed in myself for not going and trying sooner. These fish are by far on of the most interesting and exciting fish I have encountered! In no way do I claim to be an expert, but I have learned a lot about these toothy giants in the last couple weeks. My fascination with them has grown into an addiction just like every other fish I target.

A tiger musky is the offspring of a muskellunge and a northern pike. Washington’s tiger muskies are hatchery-bred from eggs supplied by the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. Washington fish and game has planted them in Mayfield, Merwin, Tapps, Evergreen, Curlew, Newman, and Silver (Spokane County) lakes to control nuisance fish. These fish are considered to be sterile so their population can be sustained only by continued stocking. Many people have their doubts on this; rumors are said that nature found a way. In Merwin population estimates are at about only 1200-1400 fish, I have my doubts on this number as well considering I haven’t been fishing for them that long and every time I go I seem to find them cruising lots of the shoreline. This number is very low from an anglers perspective, but take my word for it, get out and fish for them…you will locate fish, and have a chance at catching them.

Tiger muskies make seasonal and daily movements; their behavior is affected by weather, wind, water temperature, light, and other factors. In late spring they return from winter depths to warm shallow areas. During the summer and fall they can be found hovering on deep structure or drop offs, they can also be found close to shore on any sort of structure that they can use to ambush prey. They’re more likely to be shallow during warm weather and low light periods. It’s not uncommon to see a fish come out from its structure to investigate the boat or vessel that is in its territory. Right now is one of the best times to go fish for these shallow monsters. In the past few days I have located many fish right on shore waiting to ambush fish. Just find good structure and 5 out of 10 times you will find a musky holding to it in Merwin.

I have found that tackle selection is one of the hardest things when it comes to catching a musky. I have tried every lure you can think to throw at them. You will get many follows on lots of baits but not a lot of strikes. I have come to find out that the buck tail seems to be the lure of choice for most musky fishermen. According to a lot of people it’s the number one musky catcher in the country, and Washington is no exception. The buck tail just seems to be the most consistent for catching these fish. I can’t seem to find them locally but http://gruntmuskielures.com/ is a great source for getting the musky lures you need. Don’t get me wrong other baits can catch fish. Other lures to try include swim baits, jerk baits, top waters (zara spooks), spinnerbaits, and soft plastics. For you rod and reel I prefer a 7 ½ medium heavy rod, with a Abu Garcia 5000 series reel. You’re going to want to run at least a 25 pound test line, and I prefer mono just because of the water clarity we have at Merwin. Lastly you need to invest in some wire leaders. Imagine how you would feel to finally hook one of these fish and have him break off because their sharp teeth cut your line! Berkley makes some nice wire leaders. I would go with 30 pound 12” length.

In no way are these fish easy to catch, they are one on the most challenging fish I have attempted to catch. Its going to take some patience and persistence. Buy some books, do some more research on line, go out and try for these fish, the second you hook on, you will be hooked to! Thanks for reading, and remember Once The Addiction Starts It Never Stops!

YOUR CRAZY ADDICTED FISHERMAN…THE BASSINPIMP

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Most Largemouth fishermen agree that Summer can be the toughest season of all. Somehow it just doesn’t seem right that the times of best weather, longest days and vacations should also offer more difficult fishing conditions. Smallmouth fishermen can enjoy 50 to 100 fish days simply casting soft plastics and filling the livewell, but if you’re going for Largemouth, it will take a little more planning and attention to detail.

While the fish are mostly done spawning and have ample feed in lakes and rivers, and while they may be relating more to underwater humps or shelves, most catchable Bass will still be found shallow – anywhere from 2 to 15 feet of water – though in some lakes big fish will be found along dropoffs or ledges or in very deep water from 25 to 50 feet. You can use your electronics and attempt to catch these very deep fish using vertical methods with such baits as heavy jigging spoons, blade baits, Senkos, tube baits, Texas or Carolina rigged worms, finesse drop-shot rigs and heavy jig and pork combinations.

One big fish hunter I know of uses very large swimbaits such as the Castaic Rainbow Trout, marking fish and then ‘parking’ the bait on the edge of weed lines where the vegetation begins to take hold just up from deeper water. He goes for long periods with no fish, but when he scores on a big one it is usually a dandy. He ‘deadsticks’ the bait, just leaving it still for long periods of time.

Some guides will employ a similar tactic while helping their customers go for shallower, more active fish. The guide will simply drop a large, Texas-rigged worm over the side of the boat and leave it sitting or slowly drifting on the bottom. Sometimes this deadsticking or do-nothing approach will result in the capture of a monster Bass that took his time locating, examining and eventually biting the ‘easy prey.’ Both methods usually involve anchoring your boat. If you are a particularly patient person, able to stay relatively still for mind-numbing periods of time, have at it. I may not be so twitchy that I have to constantly run-and-gun up and down the lake, but I do prefer systematically fishing an area, moving from place to place fairly often. When it’s not too weedy, I use the side-scanner feature of my fish finder to help find more productive spots.

Watching for surface activity and concentrations of baitfish helps to zero in on good areas too. Using my polarized Native sunglasses, I also spot big fish. They can be a challenge, but if you don’t get too close, and if you find the bait they want, they can be caught. Sightfishing can be frustrating, but it can be very rewarding. If nothing else, study the fish. Watch what he does, what he seems to be looking for. How he relates to the cover and structure in his environment. You just might pick up some information that will help you in the future, even when you can’t actually see a fish.

This Summer, remember that the old adage is true: There are always shallow fish. Along with this is the fact that shallow fish will be found wherever there is shade. Summer Fish must seek the protection and cooler qualities of shady areas, whether it is under lily pads, among cattails and bullrushes, under thick weed beds, under or beside mudlines, behind boulders or under logs. I have caught quite a few large fish in our local area that had raw spots on the tops of their tails – a kind of reverse spawning sore – from constantly sculling under their favorite log. I caught a big fish on a Texas rigged black lizard, while nightfishing in Long Lake in Spokane last July. The back of its tail from top to bottom was badly worn. This big Largemouth had been lurking along a vertical rock wall and had obviously taken up residence in a small pocket in the wall, facing out and watching for dinner. All such hideouts offer shade and cover, but the premium spots are also great ambush points where small prey do not see their doom waiting to pounce. Look for such spots!

Whether in lakes or rivers, I look for weedbeds and pads. Then I ‘pick them apart,’ dropping heavy jigs into holes in weed matts, dragging baits between clumps of pads or working weedless baits through pads. Letting a Spro Frog sit on a pad near an opening, then finally pulling him off and twitching him through the opening can produce a Summertime smash hit. Remember not to set the hook when you see the swirl or splash. Wait until you feel weight, then jab the hook in. The same pad-resting tactic, only with a Texas rigged worm which I eventually drop into an opening, can also tantalize a shady Bass into biting. Clear water and openings in vegetation are also good combinations for swimbaits, Sluggos and flukes. Try parking them like a baitfish hesitating between dashes.

I use the venerable spinnerbait too, but now I can ‘burn’ it through fish-holding areas. I might use the drop and flutter technique in some specific spots, but mostly I’m fishing the bait fast either just sub-surface or during daylight hours, deep enough so as to be barely visible to me. Usually around two feet or so, depending on water clarity. It’s somewhat of a relief to me when the warm weather finally comes and I no longer have to crawl my baits. But if I know for sure there are fish present and I’m not getting bites, I will slow the bait down or even slow-roll it on the bottom.

There was no need for that just the other night when a big fish came near to yanking my 6′6” baitcaster out of my hands. He was lurking in a barely submerged weedbed and after jarring me from daydreaming in the darkness, he dug in for the battle. Proof that even on moonless nights, Bass can still see and attack fast moving baits! This time topwaters didn’t work, but spinnerbaits did.

That happened in a lake, but don’t neglect the Columbia River. Its backwaters have some monster Bass hiding and they can be caught in daylight hours as well. I usually prefer slack or outgoing tides, but I used an incoming tide one afternoon to push a weightless, weedless, 10 inch black Powerworm under a jumble of crossed logs. A big fish gave an aggressive yank and then headed up-current in an arcing, Steelhead-like run. I had never seen a big fish make such a run. River fish have attitudes! I often find them hiding near shore along big laydowns or partially submerged logs, and such fish seem to be most vulnerable to a jig and grub dragged parallel – not across – the log.

Persistence pays off, so this Summer don’t get discouraged by the dog days and ’slow’ doldrums. Use a mesh hat and some cool clothes to beat the heat. Bring plenty of fluids. Make lots of casts. Don’t be afraid to use big baits. And about the time you’re feeling like settling into that easy chair or lounge out on the deck at home, head for the water instead. It can be beautiful out there at night. So can the big fish that are waiting. {Wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt and put on some insect repellant…the skeeters are on the bite too!}

See you in August.

Your fellow fishing fanatic and Bassmaster,

Bob Larimer

If you’re looking for a fun day of successful fishing you may want to consider shad fishing. Although not considered a good eating fish they are a fun fighting fish. With millions going over the dam each year it’s easy to have high number success days and even come home with sore arms.

Shad also make excellent crab and sturgeon bait. Fishing from the bank you’re a limited on where to fish. The best fishing is found up at Bonneville. The technique used is simple and similar to drift fishing for steelhead and salmon. Using about a 10lb line run it down to a swivel. At the swivel attach a weight which will always vary depending on the current speed. You’ll have to make a few casts and adjust your weight from there. Make sure your lead never hits the bottom or you’ll soon find out how much gear you go through from snagging up on the rocky bottom. From the swivel and weight run about a 3 to 4 foot leader at 6-8lb. There are many different lures that can be used to catch shad but as you may find out the cheaper the set up the better because you can go through them. Shad darts in a 1/16oz is what the majority of fisherman will use. Colors vary but best success will be found on bright colors such as chartreuse. Although the river is large you don’t need to cast further than 30ft to catch shad. Cast slightly upstream and let your gear sink downstream until it comes to up a 45 degree downstream. At this point as long as your gear isn’t touching bottom do a slow retrieve. Almost all of you fish will be picked up as your gear is swinging in to shore. Fishing from a boat can be a challenge finding the fish at times even with millions of fish. There are many times when you can sit on anchor and watch boats right next to you using the same lure catch fish and you might not touch a single fish. The reason behind this is because these fish follow current seams upstream. Don’t sit on anchor and wait for the fish to find you. Look for water any where from 8ft to 12ft and keep moving until you’re able to get into the seam of fish and once in that seam get ready to have some fun. Run your main fishing line down to a three way swivel. The strength of your mainline won’t make a big difference to these fish. At the swivel run a dropper line about 2ft down to your lead. The size of your lead again will vary but you’ll want to make sure you’re on the bottom this time. Also coming off the swivel run a 3ft leader to your lure. Again many lures can be used as long as they are small and create a flash in the water. Dick nites in size 0 and size 1 have been found very successful.

by Travis Bishop AKA CatchADoradoWithMYCurado

If you want to leave the crowds behind, and aren’t afraid to put a few miles on your boots then head into the high country. Some of the best times I’ve had fishing was the 4th of July at about 4300ft elevation off of a snowy bank in a lake many miles from any pavement. The mountain lakes offer a great way to catch some very anxious fish, because of the lakes being covered in snow from the previous winter.

In early summer you can throw almost any sort of streamer fly and be ravagely attacked by cold water fish but later in the summer pay attention to the top water and what’s emerging off the surface. The very high lakes mostly hold brook trout that generally don’t grow to large size, but can be up to 18-20+ inches. Regardless of their size brook trout are some of the scrappiest fish I’ve come across. High lakes will also hold cut-throats, browns, and rainbows. The best tool you can bring in with you besides your fishing rod is a float tube, many of the lakes in early summer will be partially frozen yet with limited access from the bank. Typically early summer fish will be lethargic from the cold water requiring a slower presentation, typically sticking closer to the surface, and the shoreline will be your best bet. Some patterns that I’ve found successful this year already have been smaller size 6 bead head olive wollybuggers, size 6 and 8 crayfish patterns, size 6 white woolly buggers, with a 10 ft Umpqua 6lb leader, tippet usually not necessary. Something to remember is to keep the presentation to a slow retrieve. Often times these lakes will be gin clear and you will be able to see the fish slowly coming after the fly many times this will get people in trouble by setting the hook to soon, by watching trout bum diaries I’ve learned to say a little phrase “God save the queen” before setting the hook. But once there on the line the fish quickly wake up and the ride is on. Another method for fishing the lakes for larger fish is to slowly troll larger woolly buggers or egg sucking leeches with a sink tip, also finding inlets where small creeks flow in with structure can be very effective, calm areas unaffected by wind, shallower weed beds, and the downwind side of the lake where bait drifts too are some effective areas to keep an eye for. Its still early summer and some lakes are still frozen or access roads blocked by snow drifts, but you’ll never know until you get off your couch and go find out. Good luck to ya. Keep your hooks sharp and your tip up.

Your All Around Friendly Fly Fishermen- Lonny Brooks AKA Tight-Lines