fishingaddictsnorthwest.com

When I first got started Bass fishing I had accidentally caught a Largemouth while showing my kids how to fish for trout. It was a beautiful, aggressive, chunky-looking, fascinating fish and it launched me on an entirely new adventure that has never stopped. My brother and I – both reformed Steelhead fishermen now – learned together, and we shared hours of experimenting and chattering about our ‘discoveries’ regarding this amazing, challenging ‘new’ fish.

I first studied up by reading magazines and watching fishing shows on TV. Then I went out and bought what I thought was a pretty good representation of all the major categories of Bass baits. I got floating stick baits, spinnerbaits and trailers, jigs and jig trailers, various topwaters, and plenty of soft plastic worms, lizards and flukes. All of these strange new baits were fun to look at and speculate about, but the most fascinating to me were the crankbaits. They came in a wide variety of realistic or fantastical colors, weights, shapes, bill lengths and angles – or no bills at all – diving depths and actions.

I had good success with almost all the baits right away, not necessarily boating big Bass, but catching good numbers nonetheless. With one exception, however: I could not buy a bite on a crankbait. What a disappointment! Here was a bait that seemed to hold the very essence of Bass fishing mystique, that was obviously baitfish or crawdad shaped, that wiggled underwater in what to me were very ‘realistic’ ways, that could be cranked right down into the fish’s lair, and that had not one, but two deadly treble hooks attached. And I could not catch a Bass on it.

Whether I cranked the bait through open water, ripped it through weeds, bounced it off of rocks and stumps, plowed along the bottom in the sand or mud, sped it up or slowed it down, I hardly ever got even a bite. My first ‘success’ was a hapless little dink of a fish that somehow got too close and got one point of one treble hook stuck in the top of its head. How humiliating! What the heck were those Bass Pros doing with crankbaits that I couldn’t do?

What I eventually learned was that while each category of Bass bait requires time on the water, and each has a learning curve associated with it, the crankbait demands an attitude of determination, dogged perseverance, curiousity and attention to detail. You can drag a jig-and-grub or a Texas-rigged worm through the weeds, you can strain the water with a spinnerbait, you can sputter or twitch a topwater and learn fairly quickly how to produce a hit on them. The crankbait, not so much.

The key to crankbait success, in my opinion, is lots of specific study and practice coupled with a willingness to develop a ‘feel’ for each type of crankbait in your tackle box. My earlier mistake was to expect such beautiful baits to automatically produce a fish whenever I wet them and turned the handle on my reel. They looked good and produced a satisfying vibration through my rod, so I felt they should immediately grab fish. After a few big buildups and disappointments, I put crankbaits back in my box and went back to what I knew would produce some action. Sure enough, not one of those gorgeous crankbaits ever caught a fish while laying there unused!

But defeat has never set well with me, and those pictures of guys grinning while holding up big, fat, dripping Bass with crankbaits stuck in their jaws just would not stop haunting me, so almost in spite of myself I started paying more attention to articles and shows and advice about crankbaits. It slowly dawned on me that each kind of crankbait, even each size of crankbait, had to be approached with a different mindset. Once I started paying attention I realized that the ‘feel’ of one crankbait could be radically different from that of another. I also discovered that water temperature, water clarity, depth, light levels, available forage and bottom contours all play a role in lure selection and presentation. Line sizes and varieties, along with rod compositions and actions must also be considered.

Maybe all this seems obvious to you, but they say that success can spoil a person and that had certainly proven true for me. I had expected crankbait fishing to be as easy as the other methods I had tried, then I had given up. I urge you not to repeat my mistake if you don’t want to miss out on a great challenge and a lot of fun.

The quality and variety of crankbaits continues to grow, but there are some basic categories that all aspiring anglers should familiarize themselves with: Lipless, floating/diving, suspending/diving, sinking/diving, minnow, and last but not least if you fish the Columbia River for Smallmouth, crawdad crankbaits.

Lipless crankbaits dive because of the flat, downward-sloping surface on the top of the head of the bait. Most contain rattles, with some being louder than others. I was with a friend in his aluminum boat retrieving a lipless bait and it actually produced such a loud echoing sound in the boat that it was irritating. Lipless baits are often called ‘searchbaits’ because their racket and tight, vibrating commotion have a tendency to bring in any active fish in the area. A lipless crankbait retrieved super fast in the Spring in the Columbia can produce jarring strikes from large, aggressive, pre-spawn Smallmouth.

Floating/diving crankbaits are the originals, the ones you see in classic Bass fishing art. Your cranking action causes them to dive and activates their wiggling, vibrating or wobbling action.

Suspending crankbaits are relatively new to the Bass fishing scene, and they can be deadly because of the ability to ‘park’ them momentarily before making them seem to ‘escape’ from an interested fish. They will not rise quickly to the surface as floating baits do, so they allow longer ‘hesitations’ during the retrieve.

Some crankbaits sink like a rock. Most lipless baits are in this category. Some wily Bass fishermen will actually ‘thump’ the bottom with such baits, giving them a vertical or traveling ‘hop’ that can entice fish to bite.

Minnow style crankbaits are designed to resemble baitfish, though some are highly effective in frog or crawdad color patterns.

Crawdad crankbaits come in body shapes that clearly resemble crayfish. These can be deadly when retrieved around rocky, prey-holding areas. No Bass fisherman should ever forget that for both Largemouth and Smallmouth, crawdads are a recognizable, very desirable, high-protein food source. The fish in the picture fell to a River-to-Sea, crawdad-pattern crankbait and hammered it like a fullback on steroids!

Diving actions on lipped crankbaits depend upon the angle, length and width of the bill. A short bill angled steeply down from the head of the bait will produce a shallow diving action. A long bill proceeding straight forward from the front of the bait’s head will produce a steep, deep diving action. Wider and narrower bills will alter the depth and action of the bait. Most manufacturers give you a ballpark estimate of diving depths for each bait.

Not all baits travel straight right out of the package. They can be tuned with a gentle, small redirection of the line-tie eye using needle nose pliers, usually in the opposite direction the bait wanted to angle. An encouraging word here: Baits that quickly come into compliance after a tiny adjustment will usually be your good producers. Don’t be afraid to experiment to get the travel you desire. Some folks do not tune a particular lure and keep a separate spot in their box for a ‘left-hand’ or ‘right-hand’ bait. These can be useful for working a dock or rock wall.

Before purchasing a bait, examine it closely, look for uneven seams, bad paint jobs, loose or un-evenly mounted eyes, suspicious tie eyes or hook mounts. Don’t start out with trouble, if you can avoid it. Some fishermen argue that only the snap ring should be used to tie on to. I believe a snap such as a Duolock attached to the snap ring will give a crankbait better performance, though sometimes they will ‘foul’ on the cast. Balsa or plastic composition is another debatable topic, but I am convinced that an angler who pays attention can make either one perform satisfactorily. Thin bodies on either one usually produce a tighter wiggle. Thick, wide or bulging bodies will produce more of a wobble. Something to consider is that you can order bodies and components online to build your own crankbaits from the ground up. Tempting, during these long dark coldweather days, eh?! If you are interested try Jann’s Netcraft or Barlow’s Tackle online.

The weight, attitude or action of a bait can be adjusted by customizing one or both treble hook sizes. Some anglers will remove one of the bait’s treble hooks for better travel in some kinds of cover. It is possible to use extra weight, such as adhesive-backed Suspend Strips or Suspend Dots by Storm, to get a crankbait to perform better. One of the pictured baits simply refused to dive how I wanted it to. After customizing with Suspend Strips, then clear coating that area, this bait behaves just like I want it to! Because of variations in manufacturing and different lots of the same bait, some baits will simply perform better than others. Those are the beat-up looking, worn old baits in crankbaiters’ tackle boxes!

As I became more effective with crankbaits I usually wanted a larger size, simply because I could keep track of it and feel it better. As my ability improved, I was able to have a good ‘feel’ even for the smaller cranks. For the beginner, I recommend practice with a larger bait at first. I recommend getting out on the lake or river, using your electronics to mark fish, then experimenting with baits and retrieves. Make sure to watch a new bait in clear water, getting an idea of its movements at various retrieve speeds and remembering what those movements feel like to your hands. When you do get struck, remember the water temperature, remember what you were doing, whether steady retrieves or pauses, at what depth, near what structure and at what retrieve speed. Over time you will be able to use this information to choose specific crankbaits for specific conditions.

Do you have that ‘can do’ or ‘never give up’ attitude? Can you keep learning and trying, even if your first efforts are not productive? Are you willing to spend time on the water getting the feel of your crankbaits and what they can do? Then you have what it takes to become an accomplished crankbait fisherman. That ‘cranky’ attitude can pay off in big fish and big fun!

From your friendly, fanatical, Bass fishing buddy,

Bob Larimer

Many kinds of ‘spinners’ are used effectively for catching different kinds of fish, but the ‘safety pin’ Spinnerbait is one of the best lures ever invented for catching Largemouth Bass. Even Smallmouth Bass fall prey to this amazing bait. While the Spinnerbait is really only a bent wire with blade(s) on one side and jig head, hook and skirt on the other, it does not take much experimenting to realize that the reasons for the lure’s effectiveness are many:

1- By varying retrieve speed, a fisherman can cover the entire water column from top to bottom.

2- The ‘hidden’ hook means spinnerbaits can be deliberately ‘knocked’ into cover, which attracts Bass.

3- The bait can resemble a baitfish, an insect, a bird, a bat, a crawdad and other prey Bass like.

4- In heavier weights it casts like a bullet, giving the shore-bound fisherman a new reach to fish-holding areas and offering the boat fisherman a long-distance search weapon.

5- Blade sizes and shapes can be varied for specific conditions.

6- Skirt sizes, materials and colors can be varied for specific conditions.

7- A hard strike on the bait’s large hook usually means a caught fish.

8- The weighted head can have different shapes, colors and eyes.

9- Spinnerbaits can be dropped, jigged, pumped, hopped, retrieved straight or even trolled.

10- Addition of a ‘grub’ or other trailer can slow the fall rate and change the look and feel fish perceive.

I can think of no other bait that offers so many advantages.

Up here in the North country it can be difficult to find a Spinnerbait weighing more than ½ ounce. Wholesale Sports in Vancouver does have some baits weighing in at ¾ ounce and that is my preferred weight. Unfortunately some manufacturers seem to imagine that a ‘heavy’ Spinnerbait must either be a bottom-dragging bait or a night-fishing option, so often they only have one blade which is usually a ‘thumper’ Colorado-style blade.

I prefer a heavy, twin-blade Spinnerbait. I like the long castability of the heavier bait, I can feel it’s progress through the water, I can feel the blades turning, I can sense how high or low it is in the water column, I can tell what type of cover the bait is contacting, I can even detect a following Bass when the rear blade first ‘tickles’ his nose and this prepares me for the hookset, though often fish crash the Spinnerbait like a freight train with no warning at all. I have had the rod nearly yanked from my hands on Spinnerbait strikes.

After ‘discovering’ the Spinnerbait (I think I saw Bill Dance using them), I first used ½ ounce spinnerbaits and caught fish on them but I soon realized that they were not quite heavy enough for my purposes. Not satisfied with baits I could find in stores or online, I began building my own. Adding up the cost and time spent, I don’t think I am saving any money, but I am creating a bait that does exactly what I want it to. It’s not difficult and I enjoy using free time in the off-season building baits and thinking about what is to come in the Spring.

Choosing skirt and head colors will be up to you, as will your blade shapes, sizes and colors. I believe contrasts can be important. For instance, a different color skirt than grub trailer can be a fish-getter. Also, I prefer a very small Colorado blade in front, with a large willow leaf blade in the rear, again in contrasting colors. I think brass, copper or gold in front and nickel in the back is the best combination. I believe that this combination can look like feeding activity and stimulate fish to strike. Remember that baitfish grow throughout the season. I increase blade sizes as the Summer wears on in order to match the feed Bass are eating.

If you decide to build some of your own baits, here is what you will need:

-Spinnerbait heads and wires. You can really start from scratch and mold lead heads onto wires and hooks or like me, you can simply order pre-painted wire heads in the weight you want. The ones I prefer are not only painted, but they have eyes painted on as well. I prefer ‘open-eye’ Spinnerbaits. They have a bent wire line tie, as opposed to a twisted wire loop tie. I believe that open-eye baits allow the entire wire to ‘pulse’, giving more action to the head and skirt on one side and to the blades on the other.

-Metal or glass beads, plastic spacers, high-quality ball-bearing swivels, wire clevises, blades, skirts- and some kind of wire-bending tool. I simply use my Leatherman Charge tool. It is titanium tough, but the nose on the plier comes down to a fine point, allowing me to make a nice, small loop at the blade end of the wire. Larger loops or twist ties will gather moss or weeds which then foul in the blade, stopping their action. You can obtain all these components from stores, catalogues and online sources such as Jann’s Netcraft or Barlow’s Tackle.

Assembling the pieces can be tedious, and it requires concentration and attention to detail. You don’t want to end up with a bait that is missing a component. But the finished product is a satisfying sight to behold. Just imagine the odd looks you can get from friends and family as they watch you madly assembling and playing with your beautiful lures. I’ve even had ladies hold them up to their ears like jewelry!

The best part? There is nothing quite like the feeling of a jarring, yanking strike on a Spinnerbait that you put together yourself! You have just fooled a fish with a bait of your own creation.

Now that’s real Bass fishing!

Well another September is coming, with its cooling temperatures and shorter days. Bass will go into their weight-gaining feeding frenzies and it will be more comfortable daytime fishing. Take some Spinnerbaits with you, present them in various ways and be prepared to haul in a monster Bass. I often make many, many casts before nailing a good, heavy fish. That’s Spinnerbait fishing.

We’ll discuss another kind of bait next month: The Crankbait. Until then, keep your line tight, your dry side up and your wet side down.

Best of luck from your fanatical Bassmaster friend,

Bob Larimer

It’s as simple as picking between braid and monofilament, right? Well, not quite. In recent decades fishing line technology has been leapfrogging itself and with the present varieties of line and their specific uses available, it might pay you to make your spool-up decisions armed with a little more information.

In a more primitive day, fisherman could only use gut, hair, silk or string to connect hook to rod. {“Look! Oog have big fish on line! Me stand there too!” – Yes, competition began early…..}

Then came the advent of that space-age material, nylon monofilament. Clear, smooth, strong and relatively small in diameter, mono revolutionized the quality and length of lines that could be wound onto a reel. Fishermen could fool fish in clear water, cast further, troll deeper, fight heavier fish over longer distances and enjoy small, reliable knots on their hooks.

This breakthrough also forced leaps forward in fishing reel technology. No longer were reels just storage devices, and concepts like casting distances, fish-fighting drags, line capacities, gear ratios and specialized features made fishing reel innovations skyrocket in importance. None of the reel features we have discussed in previous articles would be available to us now, without the blessing of modern fishing lines.

Monofilament itself has improved in leaps and bounds. Line diameters have been reduced, knot-strength improved, visibility (or invisibility) enhanced using different colors or properties, and overall consistent quality has vastly improved. These are not the monos of decades ago and they are dependable lines.

Some new lines, such as P-Line CX, incorporate ‘copolymer’ technology and offer a much smaller diameter at the same pound test or line strength. This means easier handling, smoother casting, less line ‘memory’ or coiling, less visibility to the fish and reduced planing of line. CX is also fluorocarbon coated, which also helps hide it from the wary fish’s eye.

I have caught many species of fish on P-Line CX Moss Green, including Salmon, Steelhead, Catfish, Largemouth, Smallmouth and Crappie, and the 20 pound test CX version remains one of my favorites for heavy cover Largemouth fishing.

When there is either moving water, or water pressure on line being drawn through water, it results in an often unwanted rise of baits or trolling riggings toward the surface. A smaller line diameter encounters less resistance and stays down deeper, hence one advantage of small-diameter line. The 20 pound CX diameter compares to 17 or even 15 pound test in other lines, so I can get more line on my spool in a bigger pound test, which is another valuable feature.

The relatively new copolymer lines are a real improvement on ordinary mono. The copolymerization process combines several nylon ‘monomers’ (A sort of hybrid of monofilaments) in a formula that produces a stronger, yet smaller line that reacts less to physical and chemical weakening. This also translates to good abrasion resistance.

I have fished with Silver Thread’s ‘Excalibur’ copolymer and had good success hauling in big Largemouths on it too. It is more expensive than some lines, but the quality is worth it. My brother, ‘Mr. Finesse,’ likes the clear Silver Thread copolymer for his subtle soft-plastics presentations. Other popular copolymer lines include Berkley Trilene Sensation, Suffix, Izorline and YoZuri (http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-FLCOPOLYMER.html). I have not fished them all, but I’ve had enthusiastic reports from other fishermen.

A related but high-tech departure from monofilament and copolymer is ‘flourocarbon.’ While it looks like mono, its chemical structure is quite different. It is made of extruded polyvinylidene fluoride, a material that is denser than mono and copolymer, and has a light refraction almost identical to water itself. This means that in its pure form, fish just can’t see it at all. It also absorbs less moisture, does not stretch as much, and is ‘harder’ on the outside than the above lines. Also, fluorocarbon sinks in water. Doesn’t take much imagination to think of some real advantages here, does it? Some earlier fluorocarbons were a little stiff, but most of them cast quite well. Most manufacturers have at least one fluorocarbon offering. Here is a helpful comparison of various fluorocarbons: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html

Even the best of the new monofilaments, flourocarbons and copolymers suffer from a tendency that many fishermen do not welcome…..Line stretch. Sometimes stretch is a good thing. I like knowing that my copolymer line will stretch a little at the hookset. Most of the time the distance from rod to bait is not that far, and I do not want to tear away a crankbait, topwater or other hardbait from a freight-training monster Bass. Also, at boatside where many fights are lost, and where there is only a short length of line under tension between you and your potential catch, do you want some cushioning when the fish shakes his head? I sure do!

But sometimes you can get too much of a good thing. Some of the older monos will stretch as much as 30% of length when the line is wet. Many monos have been reduced to 25% or even less than 10% stretch. Some stretch percentages are just too much. How far back can you sweep your rod in a hookset, and how long do you want it take before the hook point actually penetrates when a fish is biting? Before you pick one of these lines, take a good length of it and see if you like the amount of stretch. Find one that is acceptable to you.

A newer line that completely eliminates the stretch problem is a complete departure from either mono, flourocarbon or copolymer, called ‘braid.’ It is made by intertwining fibrous material, usually aramid, gel-spun polyethylene or Dacron, and weaving it into a very tough, very small-diameter line. A variation of braid is ‘fused’ line, actually braided fibers that have been fused into what appears and performs as one single strand.

Most braids have a wet-stretch of only 2 to 4 % or less. That means whatever happens at the tip of your rod is immediately happening at the hook, and vice versa. This can give you a tremendous advantage.

Braids are so small in diameter compared to mono and copolymer that line capacity on your reel is no longer a consideration. Braids are very light and have a tendency to float, making them the choice of many bobber and jig fishermen, especially in the high-vis form. There is virtually no line-memory or coiling, and braided line is also extremely long-lasting and tough. This can be a real problem for older rods with softer guides and tips, and for older reels with softer line rollers. Braid can saw right down into them. If you make the mistake of wrapping the line around your hand to yank it, it will cut through your hand too!

In the weight ranges I use for Bass, braid can actually be too small at times. I do not want to waste time on the water trying to get spider-like braid out of snap rings and other terminal tackle, wind knots from wispy lines and breezes are always unwelcome, and I do not want braid pulling down inside of itself on my spool when I put it under pressure. These are some of the drawbacks of smaller pound test braids. I know some fisherman who have resolved these problems and adapted well enough to be big fans of lighter braid, so it could be just my own preferences here.

On big water and in bigger sizes, I find braid to be superior in almost all respects. I have caught 8 ½ foot Sturgeon and big Spring Chinook Salmon on the Columbia River using braids. Sea Lions and other boaters and lines might be a worry, but not this line! Power Pro, Tuff Line, Berkley Spider Wire and Fireline, and P-Line Spectrex are all excellent braids, with only personal choice of color and ‘feel’ of the line itself being considerations. http://www.nextag.com/braided-fishing-line/search-html

Just a warning: Braid will work fine on the new low-profile bait-casting reels, in fact that is one of its strong suits. But remember the power and strength of this line! You can literally deform, bend or collapse a small, super-light, high-quality, floating spool by applying too much force with braided line. Also, line rollers on spinning reels and other reel parts can be susceptible to increased wear due to braid’s tough qualities. Choose your pound test accordingly and remember that your reel, no matter how high-end and well-machined, is not indestructible! Yes, braid really is that strong.

Now with all this information and real-time fishing tests, which line do I choose as my all-time favorite? The winner is . . . You guessed it. It really depends on what I want the line to do in a given situation.

Do I want a great, invisible, quick-sinking, low-stretch, high-sensitivity line for finessing big smart Bass with a subtle drop-shot rig? Then I should probably pick fluorocarbon.

Do I want to jab the hook in deep and cut my way out of tangles of cover with tough, powerful line when fighting a monster Bass that attacked my jig-and-pig? Then it’s time for some braid.

Do I want something that will load up and stretch a little bit on my long-distance casts, allow my crankbaits and spinnerbaits to stay at the desired depth, allow the fish to get a good pull going on my topwaters before I set the hook, and still be a relatively invisible line? Then I’m going with a small-diameter copolymer.

You will undoubtedly find your own favorites for various kinds of fishing.

I for one am very happy that line technology has come so far and allows so many excellent choices for just the right situations.

We’ll talk about which baits to tie these excellent lines onto when the May article comes out. Keep your wet side down and your dry side up, and give a few good, eye-crossing hooksets for me till then!

Fanatically Yours,

Bassmaster Bob

P.S. Please remember that all lines actually last a long time out in nature. They can prove to be cruel death-traps to birds and critters. I often return from fishing trips with someone else’s line wadded up in my pockets to discard later. It’s smart to take good care of your favorite fishing holes!

As my friend Jim would say, you can’t make a rod work for everything from Tuna to Trout.  Anyone who has been fishing for a while has come to realize that even going after just one species requires more than one rod.

A Steelhead fisherman might have one rod for side-drifting, one for pulling plugs, one for bouncing bait and another for jig and float fishing. And if he’s anything like us Bass fishermen, he’ll still want more rods!

The reason is that varying conditions and tactics require varying equipment. It’s just that simple.

When I am fishing a jig-and-pig, I want a stout rod that can take a smash-mouth attack from a big fish, then wrestle him out of heavy cover with enough authority to prevent the him from see-sawing away from me and down into an area of hazardous pad stems, rocks, sunken logs or limbs and make his escape. My brother calls such rods ‘pool cues.’

If I am fishing light soft-plastics or drop-shot rigs and finessing the fish, I want a rod with a tender, sensitive tip that will help me detect subtle taps or movements, yet with enough power to ‘stick’ the hook in when I make my move.

When I am fishing a crankbait, I need a flexible rod that lets the bait work and ‘dance’ in a way that allows me to see and feel the action, making sure that the crankbait is working how I want it to, and that will allow the fish to grab and go, without yanking the lure away before the Bass really has time to crunch it.

When I’m throwing a spinnerbait, the rod must have the flexibility and power to launch the bait as far as I want, and it must have the sensitivity to allow me to feel the bait contacting cover and feel my blades spinning. I have caught more than one Bass because the bait was still coming toward me without resistance, but the blades had stopped turning. Setting the hook – because nothing was happening! – I found that sure enough, a big fish that had taken the spinnerbait and maintained its course and speed was there on the other end!  It is crucial to be able to sense such changes, and a good rod will give you that ability.

Do you want to fish a floating, minnow-immitating stick-bait?  You’ll need a rod that will help you give subtle twitches to the bait, yet will be powerful enough to give you a good hook-set when the time comes.

Sound complicated?  It really isn’t. Choose your line size and application, and you can choose the right rod.

Almost all good rod manufacturers give you helpful information near the butt of the blank.  This includes length, power, line weight ranges,  bait weight ranges and sometimes even specific designations such as ‘Crankbait.’  There will also usually be some information, sometimes on a tag, regarding the composition of the blank and guides.

A fiberglass rod, for instance, might be a good choice for a crankbait rod, though many graphite blanks will perform extremely well too.

Here is some useful technical information about how a rod bends:

http://www.fries-rods.dk/lang/uk/rods_action.htm

And here is more good information about composition and rod flex:

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/rodselection.html

I don’t get too caught up in the technicalities.  I simply look for a rod that will do what I want it to. Most of the time I can tell right away by first deciding whether spinning or baitcasting best suits my application, by looking at the specs on the blank, and finally by hefting, flexing and examining the rod for the characteristics I’m going to need. Sometimes I will do a little research and find out what other fishermen are using for a certain application.

If you live in or around Southwest Washington, another great resource can be found in the Fishing Department at Wholesale Sports in Vancouver.  With combined experience of over 175 years of fishing, the experts there can offer information and suggestions on all species of fish and the right rods to catch them.

You can make a rod serve several purposes, but I strongly suggest that as you become more experienced it is best to demand exactly the right rod for the right situation.  This will give you more success and help you to get more satisfaction out of your fishing.

But then, you’ll still need another rod!  Right?

No, that doesn’t mean that pollution and radiation have given the fish three fingers, or that I set the world record with a hundred pound fish! It means that even in the hottest weather, Smallmouth and Largemouth are biting.

The hottest day at my house hit 109 in the shade, and I saw on national news that Vancouver, Washington had broken it’s all time record with 108 degrees. But I hit the Willamette above the falls at Oregon City and found many Smallies volunteering to bite soft plastics, crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Rapala’s Shad Rap suspending Rainbow Trout worked great, alternatively sitting it and ripping it. A firetiger DT4 crankbait, bumbling along on the rocky bottom also produced. Gary Yamamoto grubs on ballhead jigs ticking the rocks also worked. Most volunteers were relatively small, but my friend Roy caught a battling 4 ½ pounder that nearly escaped the best efforts of two excited guys to net him. This was all in 100+ degree weather. We found shady spots and hid under the boat’s Bimini top. The river breeze helped out too.

I also fished some backwaters behind islands in the Columbia and caught quite a few Smallmouth. I have heard that the Columbia slough near the mouth of the Willamette is producing a mixed bag of Smallies and Walleyes too. More than one fisherman told me that they are getting big Smallmouth – 4 pounds and above – using topwaters early in the morning. Might be worth a try, if you like the adrenalin rush of a topwater attack!

We’ve got more hot August weather coming, and I don’t think we should let the heat keep us off the water. Also, there is an alternative to broiling in the heat.

Go West, young Bass man!

Many of Washington and Oregon’s coastal lakes and ponds are loaded with Largemouth. Some are hefty fish approaching 10 lbs., and you’ll be fishing in much more pleasant weather. In the past I have fished Loomis, Siltcoos, Takenitch and other coastal lakes, but this Summer I vacationed for a week with friends near Florence, Oregon and we fished a lake a few miles inland that proved to be a real producer. Combining our two families, we rented a home on the lake and were able to moor our boat and canoe at a private dock just across the lawn from the house. What a hardship it was, getting up in the morning, walking over to the boat, motoring a short distance and immediately catching fish!

When we asked an old guy who lives on the lake about launching he asked us if we were Bass fishermen, then informed us that the water was cold and no fish were being caught. We found the launch, got set up at the house, then caught fish at all hours of the day all week long. Can’t blame the guy for trying to shoo us away though!

I am proud to report that I experimented with many types of baits. One of my biggest fish came on a Bill Dance’s Eel. I wanted a more subtle bait in a shallow cove, and the head-wagging, tail-rippling motion of the bait seemed perfect. Also, we had seen quite a few salamanders surfacing for air and the Eel has similar movements. I watched a huge shape move out from under a submerged jumble of limbs and logs, then felt the weight on my line. The treble hook under the Eel’s head did the trick and we had a monster in the livewell! (I have now caught a surprise backwater Chinook Salmon, Largemouth, Smallmouth and a Rainbow Trout on the Dance’s Eel). Jig and grub combos, crankbaits and floating and suspending stickbaits also lured in some good fish. Twin-blade spinnerbaits accounted for most of our bigger Bass and we found that concentrating on points seemed to be the best strategy. Shallow coves produced during low-light hours.

A bit of experience that might help on your next outing: Topwater splashes, chases and slurps might not necessarily mean that topwater baits will produce. On several evening outings on the lake, I noticed lots of noise and motion on the surface. Desiring to be as cooperative and adaptable as possible (I always try to help supply the fish with what they want!), I put on single, then twin-blade buzzbaits. Nothing. I tried a Skitter Pop baitfish imitation using varying speeds and actions. Nothing. I twitched a floating stickbait. Nothing. I tried a Spro frog. Nothing. I tried ‘burning’ a spinnerbait just subsurface through open water where I had seen baitfish being chased. Nothing.

As I was experimenting with these baits I noticed baitfish activity at the very tips of several laydown trees extending out into the lake. Active fish were using the swamped trees to hide from predators. We made a slow, quiet approach to one these half-submerged treetops and I made a cast beyond, then hurried my spinnerbait through the water, letting it bang among the smaller branches. Even without my polarized glasses on, I suddenly saw a big bass torpedo straight up from beneath the treetop and make a vertical hairpin turn as he smashed my bait and headed for the deeps of the lake. By the time I reacted and set the hook, he had already peened himself on the bait and disappeared. He was one of the strongest, best fighting fish of the trip, and we caught several others by using the same tactic on other laydowns. It is possible that the ultra-clear water made open-water surface baits a little too flashy. Also, we had noticed many predator birds such as Cormorants, Blue Herons, Ospreys and Bald Eagles. I saw Eagles and Ospreys tumbling through the air in mock battles, screaming at each other over prime areas. With so much danger in the skies, I think the bigger, smarter fish were reluctant to risk exposing themselves by chasing baitfish out in the open.

If your are prospecting and trying out new areas this Summer, remember to try different tactics. Even though one idea or bait might make sense, there may be some factor influencing the fish in another direction. Use your powers of observation, keep an open mind, experiment and don’t get discouraged. If you keep trying, something will work. Then you can duplicate that success elsewhere on the same water.

I am excited about next month. September can be one of the best months for intercepting turned-on, football-shaped Bass. Book-ending the strategies of Spring can yield deep-bodied, hard-fighting fish that are bulking up for the chilly Winter months ahead.

See you in September!

Your friend,

Bassmaster Bob