fishingaddictsnorthwest.com

Spring Chinook are starting to trickle into our great Columbia River, and with each day the numbers should get stronger. Columbia River Fishery Managers are predicting the strongest run of Spring Chinook since the 1930’s with an estimate of 470,000 returning adult salmon for the 2010 season. If the numbers are record breaking as planned then all of us fishermen should have a great season and hopefully a full punch card!

As we prepare for some great salmon fishing let’s talk about a few key tactics to catching more fish. First thing to figure out is where to fish and when, seasoned fishermen already have this down but if you are new to the sport then you better start doing some scouting. There are creel surveys posted by ODFW/WDFW which tell you how many fish were taken from each boat launch, this will get you started. Finding good holding water will improve your odds extremely. Remember that Spring Chinook tend to move very fast upriver so just because an area is good for a few days don’t mean it will produce as well a week later. Tides are also a big factor and will change with each location you decide to fish, watch the tide and know when it changes. Second is to figure out which technique you will be using. There are three techniques that are commonly used while fishing for Spring Chinook: Trolling, Anchoring, and Plunking. Trolling and anchoring should be pretty good below 205 bridge as far down river as Longview bridge. Plunking is going to be really good above I-205 this year because there will be no boats but it can also be done in the lower river.

Trolling seems to be a favorite among the hard core Springer fishermen! This technique is great because it allows you to cover a lot of water and you can go back through the same area over and over again. These fish will start moving upstream rather than holding in a specific location, with trolling you can stay with the fish which will produce better catches. Knowing when the fish move and acting on it is the hard part. Always remember to troll with the tide, not against it. Spring Chinook generally won’t chase bait against the current. Trolling is definitely more costly to fishermen for fuel and bait, but it is a lot of fun and well worth the investment!
Anchoring is a great cost effective way to catch Springers, and it produces quite a few fish when done right. Finding a seam in good holding water is the most difficult part, when you do find your spot its game on! Sardine wrapped Kwik-Fish, Plugs, or herring if the current is strong enough, are the baits of choice. Anchoring is very effected by tides and is normally only done on the outgoing tide. This technique can be lots of fun when the fishing is hot but it can also be extremely boring, come prepared with a deck of cards just in case. Also be careful of those sea lions, they tend to steal a lot of fish from anchored boats.

For you guys and gals out there that don’t have boats, Plunking is your best bet! Plunking from the shore is more difficult to take springers than in a boat but can be productive when the fishing is hot. This method is generally done by taking a long bank rod, run a 30” leader to a Spin-N-Glo tipped with sand shrimp or prawn and run a dropper line to a weight(18”-30”), try casting as far as you possibly can to get into the seam. Finding good water to bank fish from won’t be too difficult this year, the complete river between I-205 bridge and Bonneville dam is bank fishing only, this will give the bank fishermen the upper hand when the fish are really pushing through that part of the river.

Spring Chinook fishing in the Columbia River is one of the most anticipated sports among all fishermen in the great northwest. We could see more fish this year than we might ever see in our lifetime and that is just amazing! With our hopes running high and the beginning of the run at our doorstep we should start seeing more fish every day. I hope that everybody has an insane Springer season and let us keep this great sport alive.

Your fellow fishing addict,
Shaun Keller

If you’re relatively new to Bass fishing, you have probably heard of or tried fishing with ‘soft plastics.’ What some folks have mistakenly referred to as ‘a rubber worm’ has exploded into an amazing variety of lifelike and/or bizarre-looking soft baits that appeal to fish for various reasons and under various conditions. One thing is common to all soft plastic baits: If you rig them properly, you can penetrate deep into ‘snaggy’ cover and present the bait to fish that would never see other categories of baits because they feature treble hooks or exposed hooks.

From Left to Right among the pictured baits you can see represented snake baits, worms, grubs, Senko-style stick baits, lizards, tubes, ‘creature baits,’ swim baits and crawdad ‘trailers’, all in various sizes. While you are reading this, someone somewhere is maniacally mass-producing or hectically hand-pouring a new variation of a soft plastic bait, experimenting with different colors, textures, sizes, arms, legs, wings, scales, antennae, claws, fins and tails.

Some baits will realistically mimic a specific fish species such as Bluegill, Shad or Rainbow Trout. Some will look like live crawdads, frogs, leeches or worms. Some will look like nothing that flies, crawls, swims or scurries on planet Earth. But all of them will catch fish and if they are Texas-rigged, they will come through brush, branches, limbs, logs, weeds, moss, pads, reeds and other obstacles that would immediately grab and hang up other baits. They will also move in ways that are unlike other baits, and their look and feel can cause Bass to hang on just a little longer than they would when mouthing a hard, unnatural feeling bait. They also lend themselves well to various, lubricating scents which not only attract fish but also aid in sliding over obstacles.

Texas-rigging, therefore, is mighty important if you want to hunt Bass where they are hiding. Consider: If you were one of those guys standing in the boat pictured, would you throw your bait into that mess? Of course you would! That’s where the fish are!

So how do you effectively ‘Texas-rig’ a soft plastic? It’s relatively easy, and once you figure it out and practice a few times on a medium-sized worm, you will have it mastered. Then you can do it with just about any of the baits pictured, and others as well. Imagine the possibilities! It does not have to get complicated either. Sometimes just a grub, Texas-rigged and skittered across the top of a weedy stretch will produce a hump of water followed by a smashing strike from a fish that thought he was safely buried in weeds. Don’t forget your heart medicine!

To rig Texas-style, first choose a good, sharp hook that will be a match for the size of bait you are rigging. The hooks I normally use range from big 6/0 or 5/0 hooks for larger swim baits, down to 1/0 or even smaller, if I am using a tiny version of, say, a plastic lizard.

When them good old boys down in Texas first started this method, all they had were regular, straight-shanked worm hooks, or they could use a jig hook (Intended to have lead molded onto the bend, up near the eye). That straight ‘L’ shaped bend produced a corner, and in that bend they could secure the head of the plastic worm so that it would not slide down the shank during casting, or while bumping and dragging against cover. Then those ingenious Bassers could bury the point of the hook in the plastic, put a bullet sinker out in front – pegged or un-pegged with a toothpick – and suddenly they were fishing ‘weedless’ and ‘snagless.’ Whether the fish thought the bait was a slithering worm or a darting baitfish, they gobbled ‘em!

As folks discovered just how ingenious and effective it was to drag a Texas-rigged worm or lizard up and down over submerged brush and through weeds or branches without hanging up, they ignited a demand for Texas-rig hooks that were easier to use and that produced a rig that kept the bait looking straight and natural. The market responded.

All major hook manufacturers have several different styles of hooks that were designed specifically for Texas-rigging. I am not a big fan of the bent-shank style of hook, though they work well and come in different gaps, gauges, styles and sizes. They require the angler to run the hook point through the top of the head of the bait, then twist the bait around, hang the head on the bend near the eye, straighten the bait out, line up the bait, and push the point of the hook through the center-line of the body of the bait, either coming near the surface, or punching all the way through, then ‘skin-hooking’ the point back down onto the body of the bait. All this must be done in such a way as to prevent the finished bait from ending up looking twisted, bent, off-center or bulging unnaturally. Done improperly, the head of the bait still does not stay up on the bend. They work fine when you set them up correctly.

I’m not all that patient – especially not in the middle of a hot bite! – and I have a tendency to be fumble-fingered, so my favorite hook will have a separate ‘prong’ with barbs, attached to the hook eye. I really like the Mister Twister version of this hook, and it comes in many useful sizes. I also like Owner hooks that have both a prong and a coil spring around the prong, attached to the eye. These are very effective on some of the ‘slimier’ baits that might slip right off of a single prong. I keep a skeptical eye out for any hook that sports a prong that comes down too close to the hook point. I want the Bass to be able to munch on my weedless hook, push the plastic head of the bait down, swinging the prong down toward the hook shank and away from the point, and then get real nice and closely acquainted with the hook point that is now sticking in under his jaw, or up into his nose. If the point of the prong is too close to the point of the hook, that does not leave a lot of gap or stretching room for the plastic to move and expose a good length of hook point. Sounds fussy, but I’ve proven to my own satisfaction that it can make an important difference in hook-up ratios.

What’s the big advantage of the prong-style Texas-rig hook? The nose of your bait is independent of the shank and hook eye. You simply center up and jab the nose of the bait onto the prong, or jab and twist it on, if it has a coil and a prong, line up your bait in the orientation you want (Some baits have an obvious ‘top’ with eyes up and legs down, a flat ‘bottom’ or even a well-designed ‘hook slot’ on the top of the bait so your hook point can lay outside of the bait, while still remaining hidden, unexposed and safe from weeds and snags. One hint: Though some baits are formed with a flat ‘bottom,’ you can sometimes cause your bait to have a great, erratic, random, darting action simply by rigging with the flat side up. Or if the bait has a flat top, reverse that. This can be killer when fish are ignoring ‘normal’ presentations and might be more prone to react to an unexpected movement. Try it!

Common sense works well in choosing the amount of gap on a hook. If I’m using a slim, straight bait like a worm, I’ll usually opt for a narrower gap in the hook. If I’m going with something bulkier, I’ll use a hook with a wide gap. A wide gap is best for most swimbaits, so that you can rig them to track straight without the hook deforming the bait’s shape.

Want to know a secret about Texas-rigging? When you do get bit and set the hook, that hook is in that fish! A jig might ‘flip’ out of the fish’s mouth on a head-shake, a spinnerbait might ‘twist’ out during an acrobatic roll or change of direction, a treble-hook might simply pull away, simply not having enough ‘gap’ to really grip a good amount of the fish’s face. But a Texas-rig worm hook is going in, penetrating deep, capturing a good amount of flesh or jawbone and then holding well, backed up against the barb. Keep that fish from wrapping around an object down deep and no matter what he does, you are most likely going to have him in your hand!

A quick word on weights: I prefer plain old lead bullet sinkers in various sizes. I usually use the lightest weight I can cast well with. If I have a heavier worm, like a 10 inch Power Worm, I might use no weight at all, allowing the worm to ‘settle’ and move freely in the water. This is especially effective if you have a little current. Let the current press your offering right in under a weed mat, brush pile or log. Wham! Or if I know I’ll be contacting brush or branches throughout a retrieve, I might use a small bullet sinker just to help deflect off of cover and make a little fish-attracting commotion. In heavier river current I might upsize the bullet weight, but most often I go lighter if I can.

You can also use tungsten weights. They work well but they are more expensive, though they do create a sharper knocking sound and that may be helpful on a particular day. Ordinarily, I prefer the soft thump or ‘tick’ of a lead weight. For most applications, I stick a toothpick into the point of the sinker and alongside the line, then snap it off cleanly, flush at the front of the sinker and sitting on top of the hook eye. This ‘pegs’ the weight and gives you confidence that when your lead is contacting cover, your soft plastic offering is doing the same thing in the same spot. Sometimes a slip sinker can be helpful. The above-mentioned grub on the weed-tops seems to do better with a sliding sinker. Experiment and see what you like.

Some bullet sinkers come with a coil extending out of the back of the weight. This can be a great help when trying the ‘Florida’ variation of Texas-rigging. Instead of having the hook up near the head of the bait, you can run the line down through a screwed-in bullet weight, even midway down the bait, then to your hook eye, hiding the hook point as usual. This can produce a different, more horizontal, enticing action and might help it slip through thicker cover. Whether hooked at the head of the bait or further down, have no fear that the fish will bite the hook. I have been able to watch strikes in clear water, and it is amazing to watch a Bass, Smallmouth or Largemouth, as it homes in on the bait and strikes the head and center mass. They are efficient predators, and they know how to attack their prey!

Another sneaky tactic that qualifies as Texas-rigging is to use a floating bullet where a lead bullet sinker would normally be. Usually colored, these can make any soft plastic a surface bait. Fish like any topwater, or hover and twitch a soft plastic over a shallow Bass bed and you can provoke a strike from an enraged fish that thinks it’s defending its offspring! The purple bullet weight in the picture is actually a floating bullet.

As in the picture, there are also some hooks with weight molded right onto the shank. The two shown are from Owner and Gamakatsu. ‘Belly-draggers’ and ‘butt-draggers’ are often used with swim-baits, but they can also be useful for many other soft plastics when a different ‘look’ is desired. Switching from a nose-dive to a horizontal drop might just produce more hits. A combination of a butt-dragger and floating claws on a soft plastic crawdad might just prove too much for a crustacean-munching Bass to resist! Experimentation with all of these possibilities is strongly encouraged. Sometimes just a small change or adjustment might turn on otherwise inactive fish. They’ll let you know!

The water is warming up. Bass are becoming more active right now. In the Northwest, they are starting to move up in the water column and in toward spawning areas. In this pre-spawn mode, as well as during the spawn, soft plastics might be just what you need to put a bend in your rod. You can really improve your odds by fearlessly fishing snaggy areas. So get your Texas on!

Your friendly, fellow Bass fanatic,

Bob Larimer

Nymph fishing is probably one of the most challenging of all fly fishing techniques. Nymphing, since the fly is underwater and is often extremely small, can test the abilities of any angler, and often leaves the beginner angler frustrated to extreme levels. Yet, the ability of have good nymph fishing technique is essential for productive trout fishing. The reason for this is simple – most trout have a diet that consists primarily of sub-surface insects (nymphs). An angler who does not know how to nymph fish will be greatly limited on where they can fish and what they use.

Just like dry fly fishing, there are many, many ways to fish a nymph. Which one you should use really boils down to how skilled you are in nymph fly fishing and what you are attempting to catch and where you are doing it. Make sense? Probably not, but let’s move forward to give you some idea on the different nymphing techniques available when fly fishing.

Dead drifting-

Dead drifting can be done several ways, the most popular way is under a strike indicator but some people don’t like using one claiming its impure. The purpose of the dead drift is to make your fly imitate a dead insect larva drifting with the current. Fish target these because they’re an easy meal, you can also dead drift attractor pattern flies to grab the fishes attention.

How to dead: simply start by casting upstream above where you think the fish may be laying, allowing time for your nymph to sink into the strike zone. Strike indicators and weights attached to the line are popular tools for reaching the proper depth.

Swinging-

Swinging can be an effective way to cover large amounts of water rather quickly, and also an exciting way to fish because the takes are mostly BAM! Fish on, similar to drift fishing with terminal tackle. The swinging of the nymph for example the stone fly nymph is imitating the male stone flies swimming across the current towards the shore.

How to swing: make your cast strait across the current, usually standing above where you think the fish may be laying, letting the current take the line down, mending at first if necessary to properly present your fly let the fly continue downstream until it reaches its terminal point directly downstream, let sit for a count of three and retrieve take a few steps downstream, and repeat.

Nymphing can be very effective for most all fish, expecially in heavily fished areas where fish strike for food not off aggression, and where water conditions are super clear.

Good luck good fishing.

-Tight-lines

-Troutbum89

I thought April showers were supposed to bring May flowers, not monsoon rains and record-setting cold temperatures? It’s the third coldest May on record around these parts. Friends and I were wondering if plunging water temperatures might just put Bass on rewind, back into pre-spawn mode.

If you take a look at my most recent Largemouth picture, you will see that this big female is still carrying eggs and has a sore tail from preparing a bed for the spawn. Definitely a pre-spawn fish. Though all fish do not spawn at precisely the same time, even on the same body of water, I think we will find a similar story in most Southwest Washington waters. Every cloud comes with a silver lining, and the cold rain might just extend some crazy spring Bass fishing. I can deal with that.

The pictured fish could not resist a new River-2-Sea, double-jointed, floating stick bait in Rainbow Trout pattern. I had placed it right next to a corner of flooded brush. She hit near the surface of 3 feet of water after I gave up on twitching the bait. I had just started to move it toward me when she grabbed it and then tried to dive back into the brush. Even in chilly water, this fish had plenty of fight. Three times on the way to the boat I had to wrestle her back out of different spots along the brush line. The water was dingy with new run-off and because of our tangles in the brush, I was not really too sure how big of a fish I was dealing with. After finally being forced away from the shoreline she made a dash for the boat, freight-trained underneath and right out the other side. When I tried to pull her back to my side, I had to pull so hard that I thought maybe she was wrapped on something. No, just a strong, heavy fish. I netted her, amazed at the depth of her body and the thick hump of her back. The backwaters of the Columbia hold such treasures, but finding high enough water and pre-spawn-attractive flooded brush can be a challenge. With all the recent rain, it wasn’t too much of a challenge this time. Who knows? Maybe the water will stay up as the temperature comes up and we’ll have a few more weeks to try such areas?

I still have some more River-2-Sea baits to try out, including some really detailed, realistic salamander imitations, complete with adjustable brush guards. There is also a dandy, sinking, single-jointed Rainbow Trout patterned bait that seductively ‘walks the dog’ underwater with a little practice. It has a hard body, but it comes with a replaceable soft plastic tail. Now that’s attention to detail! If they are as productive as the floating version, I’ll be very pleased. I have not tried them yet but there are also some very highly detailed soft plastic crawdad imitations as well. This new line of baits is available at Wholesale Sports in Vancouver, and I know I’m not the only guy picking them up.

A few weeks ago my friend Ken and I went East up the Columbia Gorge to see if we could find some Smallmouth. We found three foot waves and cold wind, but we also found some good fish. Using the old standby lipless crankbaits, we found fish around the usual suspects: Underwater humps and small rocky islands. Sheer rock walls that work for me in warmer water seemed to hold no fish at all. Though I fished them with confidence, soft plastics such as grubs or tubes produced only a few fish. The water was barely 50 degrees and probably too cold for a good grub bite. But it was great to get smacked by Smallies chasing the crankbaits. Lucky Craft seemed to produce the best, and I also did well with a blue and chrome Rapala and a red Rattle Trap. The size of the fish was nothing to write home about, as you can see in the picture, but the rollicking, racing, yanking fight of a Smallmouth of any size is always a thrill. Just a week later, my friend Josh was able to blast a 5+ pounder in the same general area. It’s just going to keep getting better as the temperature rises, and I recently heard a rumor of Salmon fishermen complaining about ‘nuisance’ Smallmouth hitting their baits!

Every Spring has its own character. Usually May is a dependable, uniformly warming month, but not this year. I suspect that we will snap back into more ‘normal’ weather and a rapid warming spell in the next few weeks. This means that Bass fishermen will need to stay adaptable, ready to hunt pre-spawn or spawning fish, and ready with either foul-weather gear or shorts and T-shirts!

I recommend having several rods baited up and ready to go. Have a stickbait rod, a soft-plastic rod, a spinnerbait rod, a crankbait rod and a top water rod with a Zara Spook, a River-2-Sea floater or a buzzbait ready to tempt surface-striking fish. Low-light hours will probably be better for your top water offerings. Remember, never give up after being short struck on any hardbait. Immediately put a soft plastic such as a worm, a tube, a creature or a lizard right back into that same area. You might just score big on the second strike! Use scents! They work, and the lubrication helps your baits move through weeds and snags more freely. Vary your retrieves, especially with spinnerbaits and crankbaits. Short pauses and bursts of speed will arouse fish more than a steady, predictable retrieve. Remember that Largemouth can have spawning beds anywhere from 1 foot to ten feet deep. If you use your Polarized sunglasses and look for them, you might just find them. When fishing flooded brush during midday, cast to the deepest shade areas and don’t pass up indentations or ‘pockets’ in the brush. Even small changes in a brush line  or any weed line or shoreline – might hold big fish!

If it stays cool and rainy, just put your rain gear on and get out there! I hustled off the water when the thunder and lightning started today, but the rain wasn’t so bad. Catching a nice big fish can make you forget having to wear a raincoat!

Your fellow Bassing fanatic,

Bob

As avid Salmon, Steelhead, and Trout fishermen we all can appreciate the advantages that floating the river can give us. Many times I find myself wondering what boat I like better, a pontoon boat or a drift boat. There are so many great things about each craft, and they both get you down the river to those untouchable holes which most bank fisherman cant access. Let’s take a moment to go over the pro’s and con’s of each boat, so you can decide as a fishermen which one suites your needs better.

Drift boats are definitely the most popular and sought after floating device for many reasons. This boat will fit multiple people and tons of gear, which makes it the perfect craft for guiding. Drift boats are also designed to glide easily across the water to make for less strain while oaring. They come in all different shapes and sizes, and are made from many different materials such as aluminum, fiberglass and even wood. Any fisherman can appreciate how comfortable and spacious these boats are, especially when being out on the water all day.

Although there are so many great factors to having a drift boat, I still have couple of issues with them. Drift boats can be extremely loud from bouncing off rocks and scraping bottom which tends to scare fish and let them know your presence. Fishing is all about being elusive and not being seen. Water levels can drop making floating a drift boat very hard if not impossible, then you’re stuck hiking around like everyone else. I also feel that fishing out of a drift boat by yourself can be a little difficult at times, especially launching and loading your boat.

Pontoon boats are not quite as popular as drift boats but are very capable and user friendly crafts. I find that pontoon boats are great for beginners because if you can’t avoid a rock or a log, most of the time you can just go right over it! These boats are also very quiet and can easily be navigated in tight spots. When the river is low these crafts are good to go, they float in 3 inches of water and if you get stuck you can easily drag them to deeper water. When Drift boats can’t float the river, Pontoon boats can!
There are also a few downsides to pontoon boats. With Pontoon boats you are limited to how many fisherman that can float with you, there are 2 and 3 seat pontoons but they are big and can get really expensive. Gear storage can be very limited, and normally you are limited to 1 or 2 fishing rods. There are platforms for a box or a cooler and they usually have a number of pockets but you have to limit yourself to what gear you bring. It also is very hard to pull plugs and bait-diver set ups because lack of hands. If you don’t have an anchor set-up you are usually forced to pull to shore to fish the hole, if there is no bank access I run a rope across the front of my boat so it can’t float away and I wade while fishing.
I hope that this information could help you on your decision on which boat would fit your needs best or maybe both if it’s in your budget. Each boat is a great at floating the river and will do so for many years with the right maintenance. While on your next adventure down your favorite stream, whether it is in a Drift boat or a Pontoon I hope you catch many fish and have a safe float.
Your fellow fishing addict,
Shaun Keller

Summer steelhead can be one of the most aggressive best fighting fish to target. They exert explosive runs and huge acrobatic jumps. They also come into the rivers with lots of fat content, making them an exceptional table fare. SW Washington’s rivers have some great summer steelhead fishing. The East Fork of the Lewis, the Kalama, the Washougal and the Elochoman all continue year after year to produce good runs of summer fish.

The East Fork is a great river for all techniques of fishing. The smolt release for this year’s return wasn’t a great one. The release was almost cut in half with only 32,300 smolt released. It’s going to be tough to pick up summer runs in this river, but they will be there. On the river you will see good bobber, drift, plug, and fly fishing water. Two great places to start for bank and boat anglers is Lewisville or Daybreak Park. The float from Lewisville to Daybreak is a really nice float. You can launch at the top of the park and go all the way to daybreak or la center. There is plenty of good water all the way through the float. Daybreak down to La Center is a long float; you will be oaring about 45 mins to an hour once you get to the dead water a few miles below Daybreak. For bank anglers you can park at either of the parks and walk up and down river. There are quite a few spots to fish from the bank. Jig and float fishing is the most popular on this river because of the quality float water up and down the river. From daybreak down, there is a lot of plug pulling water as well as drift fishing sections. Early in the summer you are going to want to concentrate low in the system, as the water begins to heat up, you should start to fish higher in the system cause that’s where the fish will be, trying to survive in the low warm water.
The Kalama should be a different story. With 84,150 smolt released this river is expected to be on fire. I talked with Monty Thierry of Reel Adventures Guide Service (www.reeladv.com) and he said the run this year is going to be a very good one. There are 3 popular floats on the Kalama. The first is from Pritchard’s/Red Barn down to the Slab Hole. Be aware of a large exposed boulder in the rapids just below Pritchard’s ramp. It comes into play as the water drops into summer steelhead time. You’ll need to run the rapids out in the chop to the right of the boulder as there isn’t enough space to clear the rock if you choose the left side. Not an issue if the water is high but as the water drops into summer flows this rock has turned a few boats over in the past. There are some nice runs in this stretch of river, good float and jig fishing just below Pritchard’s rapids and all through Weber’s run. The deep waters of the Upper Bridge hole has good bank access and can be fished with float and jigs up in the fast water at the top of the run and can hold fish all the way to the bridge. The Gazebo run/hole is another boat access only drift that is good for floating jigs/bait as well as divers with bait or small plugs. There is some small pocket water from there to the Slab run/hole that should be fished with floats and jigs.The second good float is the Slab hole to Modrow Bridge. There is good bank access on the Slab hole and can be good for jigs and/or diver bait if you’re in a boat. The lower hatchery run/hole puts out fish all summer long with floats and jigs, as well as drift fishing eggs or shrimp. Just below the hatchery is the Beginners hole with great bank access and is another good float and jig hole with good results for boaters as well pulling plugs or bait divers. Fishing the boulder laden flats below the beginner’s hole with the sun low on the water at first light or late in the day for migrating fish with spinners or floats and dark colored jigs. From this point down there is some limited bank access and better for boaters and can be good plug and bait diving when the water volumes are high enough in the early summer. After the water drops stick to floats with bait/jigs or spinners in the faster white water.
The Washougal River is another smaller SW Washington river that year after year puts out good numbers of summer steelhead. With a smolt release of 64,600 for this year’s return fishermen on this river can expect good fishing results. Highway 14 provides good bank-fishing access to the Lower Washougal, and there are three spots along the lower river where boat anglers can launch to fish. This is a smaller river with lots of boulders so experience is needed for floating this river. When the flows are low on the river it’s not a good idea to even float. The bowling alley hole and cop shop hole are both very good places to fish from the bank. You can find good jig and float as well as drift fishing water by walking up and down the river from either of these spots. The upper shoug can also be very good when the water flows begin to drop. You can find fish trying to survive the heat and low water, in deep pools as well as fast riffles. Casting spinners up here can produce very well.
The Elochoman River is a small river that flows into the Columbia River near the town of Cathlamet, Washington. This river is always a good bet for putting some summer steel on your plate. Fishing this river can be fairly easy just because of its small size, the fish are easier to find. The river should produce a good run this year with a smolt release of 29,200. For such a small river, even if 5 percent returns, you’re looking at a good run. The river is bank fishing only, with most fishing being done below the beaver creek hatchery. It’s best to target the fish as soon as the river opens early in the season, because as the summer goes on and the river drops the fish get very spooked. Later in the summer going higher in the river can produce better fishing. The water between the two hatcheries can be very good water as well as the water above the hatcheries. This river has limited access and a lot of the water is private. Be sure not to trespass and always ask for permission to fish someone’s land. Fishing on the river is primarily done with bobber and jig, but there are a few runs good for drift fishing.
No matter what river you choose to go to in SW Washington you’re going to have a good chance at some summer steel. The good thing about all these rivers is the fact the most of them are fairly close. You can fish the East Fork, and if it’s not producing drive up to the Kalama or down to the Washougal. Fishing for summer steelhead can be one of the most exhilarating fishing experiences. Nothing is like the power and beauty of these awesome fish. I hope that you will be able to create some memories on one of these great rivers.
Marlin LeFever

We finally got the rods in the water around 8pm, setting ourselves up for a night of steelhead fishing! Pulling lighted plugs and glow in the dark Spin-N-Glos with sand shrimp. Everything was perfect, the weather, the water, and fishing with your best buddies. Anticipation was high; it was up to the fish now.

Summer Steelhead, Salmon, and sturgeon fishing the Columbia River and its tributaries can be an angler’s haven, thousands of salmon and steelhead poor over the dams every year on their journey upstream. Chinook salmon reaching over 40lbs, more steelhead than you can shake a stick at, and lots of keeper sturgeon! It truly is a great time to be fishing this Columbia River fishery.
Summer Chinook fishing is extremely hot! With fish averaging from 16-22 pounds and some well over 30 lbs, you really can’t beat fishing for these monsters. Sardine wrapped kwik-fish and Spinners are extremely productive. This year the season runs straight through July so we get a lot of time to target these huge chromers. Water depth and current flow are extremely important, try to stay in between 8-20ft of water on a normal day but some day’s fish are being caught as deep as 30ft of water. According to the preseason forecast there are almost 90,000 Summer Chinook expected to return to the Columbia this year! These Summer Chinook are by far the best tasting fish and they put up a heck of a fight.
Steelhead numbers over the dam continue to grow! Lots of fish are being caught in the lower river system already and it will only get better. A lot of places allow night fishing as well as day fishing so you never have to stop! Summer steelhead will continue to trickle into our river systems all through summer and into early fall. These fish have tons of stamina and will give you quite a show when hooked! Fishing Spin-N-Glos with sand shrimp, spinners, and small kwik-fish are all great ways to pick up steelhead in the Columbia. When it comes to night fishing, pulling lighted plugs and rigging up a glow in the dark Spin-N-Glo will knock them dead! There are so many fish and a ton of time to go catch them, it is definitely worth it!

Sturgeon is also a hot summer fish on the minds of many anglers! Sturgeon in the Columbia River vary from 20 inches to 20 feet! A keeper sturgeon will have to be within 42inches and 60 inches, making it difficult sometimes to find a fish to put on your dinner table. These fish are very hard fighting (some say the hardest), and taste amazing if prepared right. My favorite is fishing for oversize sturgeon! These monsters average between 6-12ft long, they will tear you up and keep fighting for up to an hour or more. There are many different types of baits used for sturgeon. Sand shrimp, smelt, anchovies, herring, sardines and squid all work well, make sure to use lots of scent also. If you are after the big fella’s then try a fresh whole shad.

We are all very lucky to get to enjoy this great Columbia River fishery. I hope that everybody will help preserve and protect our waters we are so fortunate to have here in the great northwest and enjoy every last minute you have on them. Whether its salmon, steelhead, or sturgeon fishing this summer I hope to all the best of luck!

Your Fellow Fishing Addict,
Shaun Keller

Let’s face it, Bassing friends, January and February in the Pacific Northwest are not premium months for pursuing either Largemouth or Smallmouth. There are still catch-able fish out there, lurking in the Winter haunts we discussed last month, but it’s a cold, slow game if you want to try for them. You can review the February 2009, Bob’s Bassmaster Basics article on preparing for Spring Bass fishing. It has lots of useful information for planning, researching and just generally studying up in order to be really ready for your first major trips into Bass Paradise. For January and February, let’s talk a little bit about rods, reels, baits and other gear. Some of this information will be very basic, but these articles are purposely geared toward folks who are newer to the Bass fishing scene, or who would just like to gain a few more tidbits of useful knowledge. As always, feel free to put in your two cents worth in the Forum section. I am forever looking for new ideas, and I believe that is one of the identifying signs of any good fisherman.

Whether you are a die hard Salmon fisherman, Steelheader or Bassing fanatic, if you have been fishing very long at all you probably have some strong opinions on the relative merits of spinning gear versus bait-casting gear.

I grew up fishing with spinning gear. As a boy I would spend entire Summer days, dawn to dark, wandering up and down the local creek near our home. During the school year I would be back down at the creek, as soon as I could dodge out of old Mrs. Peterson’s class. Using worms I had dug from our garden or crawdads I caught with the worms, I would catch nice Rainbow Trout throughout the year. Many were in the 14 to 16 inch range and one monster was 20 ½ inches long. I came whistling home like Opie from Mayberry and my Dad took one look at that whopper, grabbed his gear and headed for the creek!

Dad was quite the accomplished Steelhead fisherman and had ‘mastered’ the Kalama, Lewis, Washougal and other rivers by the time I was getting good at free-lining worms or crawdad tails into likely seams in Burnt Bridge Creek. He fished with spinning gear, so I did too. The reels we had back then were fairly basic and cheap. But they worked, and we caught fish. I’ll never forget how amazed my Dad, my brother and I were when we saw our first 5 to 1 retrieve reel. It was a D.A.M. Quick and wooee, it was FAST!

On my 8th birthday my Dad walked into my classroom at school with a brand new rod and reel, handed it to me and said: “Let’s go fishin’!” The teacher and the other kids watched with open mouths as I proudly hopped out the door with my Dad (I don’t think anyone could get away with that trick nowadays!). He took me to a couple of his favorite holes on the Kalama river, set me up with an Okie Drifter rig and much to my surprise, I caught two nice hen Steelhead that day. It took me over 7 years to catch another one. Okay, Dad was a little better than me.

When I finally got into Bass fishing – in my forties – I kept seeing guys using bait-casters almost exclusively. I had seen bait-casters up on the Kalama, but Dad and I just considered them oddities and went with what had always worked for us. I would watch Bill Dance and Larry Nixon and other Bass pros on T.V. and look at pictures of them in magazines. With the exception of the Lindner brothers (them good old Northern boys), everyone was using a bait-casting rig. I remember one program when the Lindners were showing how to throw spinnerbaits with bait-casting reels. They seemed surprised at how well they worked.

I was already catching nice big Bass on my spinning gear (My Dad was horrified when he found out I was using 17 pound test line – He regularly caught summer run Steelhead on 4 lb., and he always declared that anyone using more than 8 lb. was just just ‘horsing the fish in!’), but I got curious and bought a low-profile bait-cast reel from a catalog. What a strange contraption! The spool was sitting sideways and it went around whenever you touched the handle, unlike the stationary spool on a spinning reel. It was a Right-hand reel, and I quickly became convinced that the pros must be wizards, because I couldn’t make it work right and it always felt awkward to use. I simply could not duplicate their habit of casting and then switching the rod to the other hand.

It was a revelation when I discovered that you could get bait-casters in a Left-hand version. Since I had always used my Left-hand on my spinning reel, hanging down under the rod, it worked much better for me to have a Left-hand bait-caster, sitting on top of the handle. Also, my right arm is my power or ‘fighting’ arm, so I can battle the fish in the way that is ‘natural’ to me.

So what does bait-casting gear do that a spinning reel does not do, or can not do? For one thing, it fires the line straight off the spool when you cast. The line passes through the line-leveler and there is no spiral of line – an unavoidable characteristic of spinning reels – uncoiling off the reel, then passing through large guides on the rod until it is finally traveling in a straight line. Many people believe this gives the bait-caster an edge in distance casting.

Another plus is that the bait-casting rod has more guides than the spinning rod, because the line passes over the top of the rod, rather than underneath. Since the line is moving straight from the time it leaves the reel, this does not slow the line at all, but it does force the line to follow the curve of the entire rod blank when under tension. When a spinning rod, which has fewer and wider spaced guides, is flexed under tension, the line makes some jagged, angled turns from one guide to the next, without really following the complete arc of the rod. This puts more strain on the line and does not take best advantage of the fish fighting ability of the blank.

One more advantage of the bait-casting rig is its ability to zing your bait out quickly, yet with some practiced ‘feathering’ of the spool with your thumb, it allows the bait to slow to a stop and quietly ‘kiss’ the water at the end of the cast. Once a spinning outfit has launched your bait, your gear is going to crash into the water with a little more force and noise, even if you try to give it a gentle toss. If you are stalking spooky fish, or if you simply do not want to alert your prey to your presence, a bait-caster can be just the thing! The only way to compensate with a spinning rig is to go to lighter gear, which you may not be able to cast as far.

Lighter gear is still the strong suit of the spinning outfit. You can throw very light weights and baits very easily with them. This makes it a cinch to ‘skip’ light baits in under low-hanging brush or tree branches, or underneath docks. Bait-casters have traditionally been used for heavier weights and baits, and unless you have one of the newer, low-profile bait-casters, it will be difficult to achieve the same results. Even with the finest of the high-end bait-casters, it will take some practice to ‘skip’ light baits without backlashes.

Now we come to it, the misery of the backlash or ‘birds nest.’ No reel, bait-caster or spinning, should ever bring in loose or ‘slack’ line. You are just asking for a tangle or stray loop caught in the wrong spot on the reel. As for outgoing line, the spinning reel casts reliably, simply with the release of the line from your finger. The bait-caster, not so much! You must adjust the braking of the spool, or it is very liable to have an over-travel problem, continuing to spin after your bait has hit the water. This will produce a birds nest so glorious it could end or seriously delay your time on the water. Even with the brake adjusted properly, a new breeze can produce enough pressure on your bait and line during flight to cause it to slow, while the spool happily whirls around, throwing out loose line that turns into tight knots.

The best bait-casting reels have more than one kind of braking system. They help you ‘fine tune’ the spool. Some have magnets and/or designs that adjust centripetal force on the spool. Some have other specialties, such as ‘twitching bars’ that allow you to bring in small amounts of line with your thumb without even touching the reel’s handle (One hand twitching or hopping of baits), and some have ‘flipping switches’ which facilitate short-distance ‘flipping’ or ‘pitching’ techniques. Whichever bait-casting reel you choose, it will take some time to ‘make your peace’ with it. But you will enjoy its advantages in various situations.

I now fish with an equal number of bait-casters and spinning outfits when I hunt Bass. I adapt them to my needs, the kinds of baits I am throwing and the conditions I am facing. I still love the spinning reel, but the bait-caster is a welcome addition to my arsenal, and I understand why old Bill Dance loves his. In fact, I fish with Quantums, just like Bill. Other great brands include Shimano, Pflueger, Abu Garcia, Daiwa and others that offer high-end, smooth-casting reels.

Take a look at some common features on the spinning and bait-casting reels in the pictures provided. On the bait-caster you will see the large ‘star drag,’ your fish fighting friend, and the smaller brake knob. On the side opposite the brake knob on the Quantum Energy there is a dial for ‘fine tuning’ the travel of the spool. This is a common feature of good reels. The line-leveler at the front of the reel travels back and forth and stacks the line on evenly during the retrieve.

On the spinning reel, the large dial on top of the reel is the drag. On the Quantum Energy shown, the drag is composed of stacked ceramics, making it smooth and uniform in the pressure it applies. The line roller that guides line on and off of the spool should be large and should turn freely, to lessen the sharp turn of line from rod to spool in order to avoid line twist and/or damage. At the rear of the reel, as in most spinning reels, is the ‘anti-reverse’ switch. On good reels, it should be ‘infinite’. That is, it should prevent the reel from reversing, no matter in what position the handle is stopped.

Now is a good time to clean and lubricate your reel, and to spool on new line for the coming season. Consult your owner’s manual for recommendations for your particular reel. I find Quantum Hot Sauce oil and grease to be the best lubricants for my gear.

Next month we’ll talk about fishing rods, line, baits and other gear that Bass fishermen need to consider.

In the meantime, why not go fishing? Come on! It’s not that cold!

Fishing is slowing down a bit and we are in between runs. Anglers are getting frustrated and worn out because fishing is getting tougher and tougher. Many people start to give up and stay off the water until summer. It happens every year, but there is still fish in the rivers to be caught!

Most steelhead anglers have a certain comfort zone they do not like to break, but don’t be afraid to try something new. Get away from places that get fished by a hundred people every day, walk that extra mile upstream to find that secluded hole. Like one of my good friends always says, “I don’t let the fish come to me; I go where the fish are”. If you fish a spot hard for a half hour picking each and every seam apart with no luck then it’s time to move on. Taking that extra effort to get away from everyone else will greatly increase your odds of catching more fish this time of year.

Switching up your gear a little bit is always a good idea. You have to remember that these fish have been in the river for a while now so they have had just about everything thrown at them, so don’t be afraid to try something that might look a little more natural. Also if you have not tried any scents yet this year it might give your bait that little extra to entice the fish to bite, but it can also be your worst enemy so be careful with it. One of my personal favorite tactics for enticing steelhead to bite when they just will not cooperate is tipping my jig with a little bait. It gives you a little reassurance when fishing.

When all has failed and the fishing just really sucks then it’s time to move on. I use times like these to go scout other rivers and look for future fishing spots. If one river is not producing fish, there is another river that is. With a little research online and a few phone calls to local shops you can find rivers and streams that still have lots of fish. This will also help you choose what tactics and gear to use when fishing a river you haven’t fished before.

Finding steelhead is only as frustrating as you let it be. Being a little adventurous and exploring new tactics will pay off if you put in the time and effort. Keep pursuing the elusive steelhead that swim in our rivers and let us do everything we can as fisherman to keep them here.

Your Fellow Fishing Addict,
Shaun Keller

Winter fishing is finally upon us here in the great Northwest. The weather can change in a blink of an eye with temperatures dropping below freezing and water levels can change drastically within a couple of hours. Fishing conditions become more and more dangerous as the winter days go by. Being prepared for these conditions will make your next outing much more safe and enjoyable.

First things first, you need to wear a good set of thermal layers and warm socks for they keep your body heat in the best. If you are going to be wading make sure you buy a good set of waders, I regrettably know firsthand that buying a cheap set of waders can make a great fishing trip miserable. If you are not wading try to have a good warm pair of water proof pants. At last make sure you have a nice durable warm coat that is also water proof.

Water conditions will be very dangerous this time of year. Before wading make sure you test the depth and the current of the river. If possible try to use a walking stick for extra support while crossing. One slip could not only ruin a whole fishing trip but put your life in immediate danger. If you are not sure that it is safe then do not do it. Take every precaution possible to make your next fishing trip safe.

We all get pumped and let our minds fill with excitement when the fishing is going to get good but we also need to be extra careful out there, especially now. I hope everyone has an awesome winter of fishing and keeps those lines tight!

Fall fishing brings many opportunities to fisherman on the Columbia River. The best part about this time of year is the size of the fish. Chinook are the main target on the Columbia, and there’s a good reason for it. Imagine hooking into a 40-50lb salmon and bringing it to the boat. Well this is the time of year for it. With anticipated strong runs of salmon migrating up the river many fisherman are looking to hook into the big one. Nothing is more relaxing than sitting on a boat with friends enjoying the warm weather and hooking monster salmon. With these simple tips and tactics you can go out and hook one yourself.

Fishing for salmon this time of year is a little different but very easy and straight forward. With warm water temperatures, it can be a struggle to get a bite at times. Your best luck will be found in the deeper water where the water will be cooler and fish will be more active. Try and locate water between 40-50ft but be careful not to get into the shipping lane or you and your boat will end up at the bottom of the big C. To start out you’ll want to check the tides for the area you are fishing, because you’re always going to be fishing the outgoing tide. Fishing the outgoing tide will allow you to stay on anchor and for your lure to properly work. The setup is simple, I start with my main line which is around 50 or 65lb braided line. I connect the line to a spreader and then attach my weight. As far as line lengths go, the most typical setup is a 5×5. This means 5ft of leader from the spreader to the lure and another 5ft from the spreader to the weight. Just because a lot of people use those lengths doesn’t mean it’s the only thing that’s going to work so don’t be afraid to vary lengths until you find what is best for the day. All that’s left on the setup now is just run your leader to your lure. The main lure used this time of year is called a wobbler. There are several companies that make these lures, top choices are, the Simons, Alvins, Clancy, and Brads Wobblers. Colors will always vary from day to day so carry a selection. Reliable colors are blue and nickel or chartreuse and nickel. As far as how much lead to use, it will depend on how deep you are and how strong of a tide you have. I will use anywhere from 8-12oz of lead most of the time. Sometimes as an extra attractant you can add scent there are many to choose from but my favorites are shrimp, sardine, WD40 or herring.

With these tactics you now have the basics on how to fish for fall Chinook on the Columbia. All that is left to do is head out to river and put it all to work and enjoy the weather and fishing with your friends Get off the computer now and get out there and put a 40 pound Chinook in your boat!

If you’re looking for a fun day of successful fishing you may want to consider shad fishing. Although not considered a good eating fish they are a fun fighting fish. With millions going over the dam each year it’s easy to have high number success days and even come home with sore arms.

Shad also make excellent crab and sturgeon bait. Fishing from the bank you’re a limited on where to fish. The best fishing is found up at Bonneville. The technique used is simple and similar to drift fishing for steelhead and salmon. Using about a 10lb line run it down to a swivel. At the swivel attach a weight which will always vary depending on the current speed. You’ll have to make a few casts and adjust your weight from there. Make sure your lead never hits the bottom or you’ll soon find out how much gear you go through from snagging up on the rocky bottom. From the swivel and weight run about a 3 to 4 foot leader at 6-8lb. There are many different lures that can be used to catch shad but as you may find out the cheaper the set up the better because you can go through them. Shad darts in a 1/16oz is what the majority of fisherman will use. Colors vary but best success will be found on bright colors such as chartreuse. Although the river is large you don’t need to cast further than 30ft to catch shad. Cast slightly upstream and let your gear sink downstream until it comes to up a 45 degree downstream. At this point as long as your gear isn’t touching bottom do a slow retrieve. Almost all of you fish will be picked up as your gear is swinging in to shore. Fishing from a boat can be a challenge finding the fish at times even with millions of fish. There are many times when you can sit on anchor and watch boats right next to you using the same lure catch fish and you might not touch a single fish. The reason behind this is because these fish follow current seams upstream. Don’t sit on anchor and wait for the fish to find you. Look for water any where from 8ft to 12ft and keep moving until you’re able to get into the seam of fish and once in that seam get ready to have some fun. Run your main fishing line down to a three way swivel. The strength of your mainline won’t make a big difference to these fish. At the swivel run a dropper line about 2ft down to your lead. The size of your lead again will vary but you’ll want to make sure you’re on the bottom this time. Also coming off the swivel run a 3ft leader to your lure. Again many lures can be used as long as they are small and create a flash in the water. Dick nites in size 0 and size 1 have been found very successful.

by Travis Bishop AKA CatchADoradoWithMYCurado

This may be surprising to most, but Battle Ground Lake holds some of the biggest bass in the state! For most people this is just a myth, but I have seen them with my own eyes cruising the shores! These big green elusive monsters have been ruling over this lake since way back when. In most cases these fish are dang near impossible to catch. Besides the tight line worm fishermen hooking onto, “the huge fish that snapped their line….”

Kyle With A Nice BG Lake Bass!

These fish are probably never even hooked. These fish have seen every lure in your resume. They have become so line shy that catching them is near impossible.   There is always a way though, you can trick any fish you want to catch. It’s going to take some time and a lot of effort but if you’re up to it, you can catch them.  Right now is the key time.  The water at Battle Ground Lake has reached critical temperature and these big elusive bass have begun to spawn.  The fish in the lake use deeper areas of the lake to spawn. They focus on finding deep shelves or even logs that they can have a safe spawning bed on.  The key to catching these fish is finding the beds, this is the hard part. Be patient and take your time, walking the shore of the lake is very easy. There is a trail all the way around the lake, so access to every angle is very easy. What you’re going to need to do to find these fish is cast and cast and then cast some more.  As you walk the shore about every 50 yards make casts out into the water in all angles. Keep repeating this all the way around the lake. There are a few lures that can work in this situation. My favorite is going to be a Jig with crawdad trailer. Work the jig extremely slow across the bottom, bouncing it off logs or any other structure underneath the water.  Move it slow with just slight twitches and pauses in between the twitches. What you’re doing is trying to locate a bed, by covering every inch of shoreline on the lake. Eventually if you’re lucky you will bring the jig across the bed of a weary largemouth. Even though these fish are so smart to lures and line, right now it doesn’t matter. These fish are in protecting mode! They are going to attack to kill anything that approaches or threatens their spawning bed.  The bass in this lake have reached peak sizes. Some of them have been said to top 10 pounds!!  Now that you’re done reading this article…what are you waiting for, get out there and break the Washington state record largemouth!

Marlin Lefever bassinpimp69

Beginning this month any angler that wants to earn some extra cash can do so just by fishing. BPA has a bounty on northern pike minnow to help get these fish out of the river. These fish are trash fish and are known for a pretty big appetite on salmon smolt. The season will end September 27, 2009. For every qualifying northern pike minnow 9 inches or longer returned to a registration station, anglers will receive $4-$8. The more fish an angler catches, the more they’re worth: the first 100 in one season are worth $4 each; after 100, they’re worth $5 each; and after 400 they’re worth $8 each. Special tagged northern pike minnow will be worth $500 again this year. This can add up to large amounts of extra cash depending on how much time you put in

You can catch northern pike minnow almost anywhere on the Columbia River. Northern pike minnow congregate in rocky areas with fast current near dams, islands, stream mouths, points, eddies, rows of pilings, and ledges or bars in the river. Most fish are caught in 7 to 25 feet of water. Northern pike minnow feed heavily on smolts, freshwater clams, and crayfish. They move to find concentrations of prey. Finding northern pike minnow may not be easy. Don’t spend all your time in just one spot. If you’re not doing any good after about 30 minutes move upstream or downstream until you find fish.

Worms are the most common northern pike minnow bait. Chicken liver is the next most popular bait. Make sure it is fresh and keep it cold to prevent it from getting too soft to stay on the hook. Salmon eggs, grasshoppers, crayfish tails, and shrimp are also popular. Fish these baits similar as you would salmon or steelhead fishing. Casting upstream slightly and let your bait drift along the bottom with the current.

Bait isn’t the only way to catch these fish you may also use soft plastics. Use grubs or worms (3 to 6 inches long), tube jugs (3 to 4 inches long), or shad type bodies (1 1/2 to 4 inches long). One-eighth or one-quarter ounce jig-heads are the most commonly used. The basic technique for fishing grubs is to drift-fish. Cast slightly upstream, straight out, or slightly downstream, depending on the amount of current. Count down to the proper depth (one-one thousand, two-one thousand…), then start reeling. You are at the proper depth if your lure occasionally lightly ticks on the rocks. In the evening northern pikeminnow are most consistently attracted to grubs with purple bodies and either blue or green glitter. These colors are also available with chartreuse tails, which often work well. Try purple grubs with blue or green glitter first. Red is the last basic glitter color to try for evening fishing. For daytime fishing, try light colored bodies like chartreuse or smoke. Experiments with glitter colors, fish don’t always follow the same pattern. Light colors or white usually better in the evening and dark colors usually work during the day. Experiment with colors to find what works best and make some money while you’re out there.

For more info check out

THE OFFICIAL PIKEMINNOW SPORT REWARD FISHING WEBSITE

Probably the most popular and most used line on the market is Monofilament line, it is used by all anglers across the world. Monofilament is availible in many different pound tests and can be used on both spinning and baitcasting reels. In most case mono is not used for deep-water fishing because  it can take on water and its sensitivity will decrease. It also has a tendency for the knots you tie to weaken.

Monofilament line can weaken when exposed to heat or sun, and comes off the spool where it has been stored which can prove annoying by becoming tangled quite often. For that reason you should change your line out often. Despite all its draw-backs, this is the most widely used type of line because it is cheapest and comes in a variety of colors and strengths. It is also for the most part virtually invisable under the water in most cases.

The other widely used line is braided line. This type of line is the strongest there is in relation to its diameter. Braids are very abrasion resistant. This line is so strong that you may have trouble breaking it when you get a snag, so a fish is even more unlikely to break it in a struggle.  In contrast to monofilament line, braided line is used for deep-sea fishing where strength and durability are of the utmost necessity. The braided line has a much smaller diameter and no stretch, so every time a fish bites you will know! The downside is that braids are very expensive in most cases.

Unlike the monofilament line, braided lines are very visable in the water, and are  known to spook fish in some cases cause they can see it. Use braided lines if you are fishing in murky water, or at night. The visability of the braided line is especially unwanted when you are fishing with a lure that a fish can see for a long time before choosing to bite.

Using all the above points, it is usually in your best to use a monofilament line at the end of a braided one as a leader, to minimize the visibility of the line to the fish, yet still have the strength of the braided line to catch bigger fish known to put up a fight. When trolling, mono line is the best to use, because the stretch it provides is an added asset.  Although mono is half as expensive as the braided line, the cost does not end up being as much of a factor because it needs to be replaced a lot more often. To get the best of both worlds, use a braided line for strength with a mono line tied onto the end for the invisibility needed to get fish to bite. The Uni-Knot is a great knot for doing this. The bloodknot is also sometimes used.