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Let’s face it, Bassing friends, January and February in the Pacific Northwest are not premium months for pursuing either Largemouth or Smallmouth. There are still catch-able fish out there, lurking in the Winter haunts we discussed last month, but it’s a cold, slow game if you want to try for them. You can review the February 2009, Bob’s Bassmaster Basics article on preparing for Spring Bass fishing. It has lots of useful information for planning, researching and just generally studying up in order to be really ready for your first major trips into Bass Paradise. For January and February, let’s talk a little bit about rods, reels, baits and other gear. Some of this information will be very basic, but these articles are purposely geared toward folks who are newer to the Bass fishing scene, or who would just like to gain a few more tidbits of useful knowledge. As always, feel free to put in your two cents worth in the Forum section. I am forever looking for new ideas, and I believe that is one of the identifying signs of any good fisherman.

Whether you are a die hard Salmon fisherman, Steelheader or Bassing fanatic, if you have been fishing very long at all you probably have some strong opinions on the relative merits of spinning gear versus bait-casting gear.

I grew up fishing with spinning gear. As a boy I would spend entire Summer days, dawn to dark, wandering up and down the local creek near our home. During the school year I would be back down at the creek, as soon as I could dodge out of old Mrs. Peterson’s class. Using worms I had dug from our garden or crawdads I caught with the worms, I would catch nice Rainbow Trout throughout the year. Many were in the 14 to 16 inch range and one monster was 20 ½ inches long. I came whistling home like Opie from Mayberry and my Dad took one look at that whopper, grabbed his gear and headed for the creek!

Dad was quite the accomplished Steelhead fisherman and had ‘mastered’ the Kalama, Lewis, Washougal and other rivers by the time I was getting good at free-lining worms or crawdad tails into likely seams in Burnt Bridge Creek. He fished with spinning gear, so I did too. The reels we had back then were fairly basic and cheap. But they worked, and we caught fish. I’ll never forget how amazed my Dad, my brother and I were when we saw our first 5 to 1 retrieve reel. It was a D.A.M. Quick and wooee, it was FAST!

On my 8th birthday my Dad walked into my classroom at school with a brand new rod and reel, handed it to me and said: “Let’s go fishin’!” The teacher and the other kids watched with open mouths as I proudly hopped out the door with my Dad (I don’t think anyone could get away with that trick nowadays!). He took me to a couple of his favorite holes on the Kalama river, set me up with an Okie Drifter rig and much to my surprise, I caught two nice hen Steelhead that day. It took me over 7 years to catch another one. Okay, Dad was a little better than me.

When I finally got into Bass fishing – in my forties – I kept seeing guys using bait-casters almost exclusively. I had seen bait-casters up on the Kalama, but Dad and I just considered them oddities and went with what had always worked for us. I would watch Bill Dance and Larry Nixon and other Bass pros on T.V. and look at pictures of them in magazines. With the exception of the Lindner brothers (them good old Northern boys), everyone was using a bait-casting rig. I remember one program when the Lindners were showing how to throw spinnerbaits with bait-casting reels. They seemed surprised at how well they worked.

I was already catching nice big Bass on my spinning gear (My Dad was horrified when he found out I was using 17 pound test line – He regularly caught summer run Steelhead on 4 lb., and he always declared that anyone using more than 8 lb. was just just ‘horsing the fish in!’), but I got curious and bought a low-profile bait-cast reel from a catalog. What a strange contraption! The spool was sitting sideways and it went around whenever you touched the handle, unlike the stationary spool on a spinning reel. It was a Right-hand reel, and I quickly became convinced that the pros must be wizards, because I couldn’t make it work right and it always felt awkward to use. I simply could not duplicate their habit of casting and then switching the rod to the other hand.

It was a revelation when I discovered that you could get bait-casters in a Left-hand version. Since I had always used my Left-hand on my spinning reel, hanging down under the rod, it worked much better for me to have a Left-hand bait-caster, sitting on top of the handle. Also, my right arm is my power or ‘fighting’ arm, so I can battle the fish in the way that is ‘natural’ to me.

So what does bait-casting gear do that a spinning reel does not do, or can not do? For one thing, it fires the line straight off the spool when you cast. The line passes through the line-leveler and there is no spiral of line – an unavoidable characteristic of spinning reels – uncoiling off the reel, then passing through large guides on the rod until it is finally traveling in a straight line. Many people believe this gives the bait-caster an edge in distance casting.

Another plus is that the bait-casting rod has more guides than the spinning rod, because the line passes over the top of the rod, rather than underneath. Since the line is moving straight from the time it leaves the reel, this does not slow the line at all, but it does force the line to follow the curve of the entire rod blank when under tension. When a spinning rod, which has fewer and wider spaced guides, is flexed under tension, the line makes some jagged, angled turns from one guide to the next, without really following the complete arc of the rod. This puts more strain on the line and does not take best advantage of the fish fighting ability of the blank.

One more advantage of the bait-casting rig is its ability to zing your bait out quickly, yet with some practiced ‘feathering’ of the spool with your thumb, it allows the bait to slow to a stop and quietly ‘kiss’ the water at the end of the cast. Once a spinning outfit has launched your bait, your gear is going to crash into the water with a little more force and noise, even if you try to give it a gentle toss. If you are stalking spooky fish, or if you simply do not want to alert your prey to your presence, a bait-caster can be just the thing! The only way to compensate with a spinning rig is to go to lighter gear, which you may not be able to cast as far.

Lighter gear is still the strong suit of the spinning outfit. You can throw very light weights and baits very easily with them. This makes it a cinch to ‘skip’ light baits in under low-hanging brush or tree branches, or underneath docks. Bait-casters have traditionally been used for heavier weights and baits, and unless you have one of the newer, low-profile bait-casters, it will be difficult to achieve the same results. Even with the finest of the high-end bait-casters, it will take some practice to ‘skip’ light baits without backlashes.

Now we come to it, the misery of the backlash or ‘birds nest.’ No reel, bait-caster or spinning, should ever bring in loose or ‘slack’ line. You are just asking for a tangle or stray loop caught in the wrong spot on the reel. As for outgoing line, the spinning reel casts reliably, simply with the release of the line from your finger. The bait-caster, not so much! You must adjust the braking of the spool, or it is very liable to have an over-travel problem, continuing to spin after your bait has hit the water. This will produce a birds nest so glorious it could end or seriously delay your time on the water. Even with the brake adjusted properly, a new breeze can produce enough pressure on your bait and line during flight to cause it to slow, while the spool happily whirls around, throwing out loose line that turns into tight knots.

The best bait-casting reels have more than one kind of braking system. They help you ‘fine tune’ the spool. Some have magnets and/or designs that adjust centripetal force on the spool. Some have other specialties, such as ‘twitching bars’ that allow you to bring in small amounts of line with your thumb without even touching the reel’s handle (One hand twitching or hopping of baits), and some have ‘flipping switches’ which facilitate short-distance ‘flipping’ or ‘pitching’ techniques. Whichever bait-casting reel you choose, it will take some time to ‘make your peace’ with it. But you will enjoy its advantages in various situations.

I now fish with an equal number of bait-casters and spinning outfits when I hunt Bass. I adapt them to my needs, the kinds of baits I am throwing and the conditions I am facing. I still love the spinning reel, but the bait-caster is a welcome addition to my arsenal, and I understand why old Bill Dance loves his. In fact, I fish with Quantums, just like Bill. Other great brands include Shimano, Pflueger, Abu Garcia, Daiwa and others that offer high-end, smooth-casting reels.

Take a look at some common features on the spinning and bait-casting reels in the pictures provided. On the bait-caster you will see the large ‘star drag,’ your fish fighting friend, and the smaller brake knob. On the side opposite the brake knob on the Quantum Energy there is a dial for ‘fine tuning’ the travel of the spool. This is a common feature of good reels. The line-leveler at the front of the reel travels back and forth and stacks the line on evenly during the retrieve.

On the spinning reel, the large dial on top of the reel is the drag. On the Quantum Energy shown, the drag is composed of stacked ceramics, making it smooth and uniform in the pressure it applies. The line roller that guides line on and off of the spool should be large and should turn freely, to lessen the sharp turn of line from rod to spool in order to avoid line twist and/or damage. At the rear of the reel, as in most spinning reels, is the ‘anti-reverse’ switch. On good reels, it should be ‘infinite’. That is, it should prevent the reel from reversing, no matter in what position the handle is stopped.

Now is a good time to clean and lubricate your reel, and to spool on new line for the coming season. Consult your owner’s manual for recommendations for your particular reel. I find Quantum Hot Sauce oil and grease to be the best lubricants for my gear.

Next month we’ll talk about fishing rods, line, baits and other gear that Bass fishermen need to consider.

In the meantime, why not go fishing? Come on! It’s not that cold!

The days are getting noticeably shorter, lake and river temperatures are ramping down, and Largemouth Bass are responding by going on ‘The Fall Bite.’ In this time of ‘feeding frenzy,’ fish are bulking up in preparation for the cold winter months when their metabolism slows way down and with it, their feeding activity. Plus, a beautiful Indian Summer is a great time to be out on the water.

In the Pacific Northwest, September and even October can be excellent for Bass fishing, mirroring the crazy activity levels of Spring. Fish caught during this time can be much heavier and have much more of a football shape, compared to fish of the same length caught in Spring and Summer. One particularly warm mid-October, I caught 10 Largemouth in a row out of the same small area in a backwater of the Columbia River near Woodland, Washington. I had an appointment to keep so I had to leave without being able to find out how many more would have jumped on my baits, but what a day!

The above is just one benefit of the Fall frenzy: Bass seem to be more concentrated in obvious areas, not dispersed as in Summer fishing. Look for Largemouth attracted to riprap and other rocky areas. Rocks hold heat and radiate it during the cooling weeks of Fall, and Bass begin to look for these warmer areas. I have caught very large fish simply by making casts parallel to riprap shorelines and by running baits through shallow, rocky areas. Crankbaits, spinnerbaits and jig-and-grub (skirted with brush guard) or jig-and-frog combination’s work well in these situations. In clear water, try a swimbait that looks like the baitfish in that area. Rig it with as little weight as possible, but make certain it stays upright and straight, then swim it slowly along the rocks at mid-depths. A recognizable, easy meal will be hard for a Largemouth to resist. Don’t forget to experiment with a topwater bait too. A hardbait or a frog can still work under the right circumstances.

Start with the bigger, flashier lures. If they do not work, or if you get hit but not hung on a fish, go to the swimbaits or the quieter, smaller jig combo, or even a Texas-rigged soft plastic worm or tube bait. If you can be on the water at the beginning of a Fall rain, be there! This often turns on a major bite. My biggest Fall fish have come at such times.

An excellent all-around Fall tactic is to prowl river or lake shorelines from a boat, canoe, float tube, pontoon boat or kayak and simply cast a ½ ounce jig-and-grub to the shore, then drag it into the water and reel slowly, letting the jig bumble along the bottom. Aggressively feeding Fall fish will know what to do! I prefer a multicolor jig such as black, brown and green, with a little touch of red somewhere on the jig or grub. If you are shore-bound, don’t give up! You can still catch big Bass by working the shoreline to the right or left of you, gaining more access by carefully, quietly wading out where possible.

Remember that because of it’s off-center, head-heavy design, the jig is especially susceptible to being thrown if a caught fish gets his head above water and shakes it. The bait will flip out of the fish unless you keep a moderately tight line while the acrobatics are going on. Don’t allow your line to go slack, and don’t try to jerk or ‘horse’ the fish toward you. Just keep the line straight and tight between you and the fish while he’s head-shaking. I like to keep my rod more parallel at such a moment, so there is less of a sharp angle between the tip of my rod and the hook in the fish’s face. It seems to help keep him stuck. Remember that water temperatures and fish activity levels can vary quite a bit from day to day, and from area to area. A faster retrieve might stimulate attacks in one instance, a slower retrieve might be the real producer in another. When you catch a Fall bass, remember what you were doing and at what speed. The fish just gave you a hint!

As the days grow even shorter and colder, as light levels decrease and as the Bass’s metabolism decreases, the Bass will begin to move to deeper haunts and become harder to catch. But not impossible! The ‘strike zone’ – distance from the fish in which he is willing to move to take a bait – will shrink, but fish will still need to feed. Slower fishing is called for, but it will still produce fish. We’ll talk about some specific slow tactics and presentations in October. See you then!

BY: Bob Larimer Your Friendly Addicted Bass Fishermen

Most Largemouth fishermen agree that Summer can be the toughest season of all. Somehow it just doesn’t seem right that the times of best weather, longest days and vacations should also offer more difficult fishing conditions. Smallmouth fishermen can enjoy 50 to 100 fish days simply casting soft plastics and filling the livewell, but if you’re going for Largemouth, it will take a little more planning and attention to detail.

While the fish are mostly done spawning and have ample feed in lakes and rivers, and while they may be relating more to underwater humps or shelves, most catchable Bass will still be found shallow – anywhere from 2 to 15 feet of water – though in some lakes big fish will be found along dropoffs or ledges or in very deep water from 25 to 50 feet. You can use your electronics and attempt to catch these very deep fish using vertical methods with such baits as heavy jigging spoons, blade baits, Senkos, tube baits, Texas or Carolina rigged worms, finesse drop-shot rigs and heavy jig and pork combinations.

One big fish hunter I know of uses very large swimbaits such as the Castaic Rainbow Trout, marking fish and then ‘parking’ the bait on the edge of weed lines where the vegetation begins to take hold just up from deeper water. He goes for long periods with no fish, but when he scores on a big one it is usually a dandy. He ‘deadsticks’ the bait, just leaving it still for long periods of time.

Some guides will employ a similar tactic while helping their customers go for shallower, more active fish. The guide will simply drop a large, Texas-rigged worm over the side of the boat and leave it sitting or slowly drifting on the bottom. Sometimes this deadsticking or do-nothing approach will result in the capture of a monster Bass that took his time locating, examining and eventually biting the ‘easy prey.’ Both methods usually involve anchoring your boat. If you are a particularly patient person, able to stay relatively still for mind-numbing periods of time, have at it. I may not be so twitchy that I have to constantly run-and-gun up and down the lake, but I do prefer systematically fishing an area, moving from place to place fairly often. When it’s not too weedy, I use the side-scanner feature of my fish finder to help find more productive spots.

Watching for surface activity and concentrations of baitfish helps to zero in on good areas too. Using my polarized Native sunglasses, I also spot big fish. They can be a challenge, but if you don’t get too close, and if you find the bait they want, they can be caught. Sightfishing can be frustrating, but it can be very rewarding. If nothing else, study the fish. Watch what he does, what he seems to be looking for. How he relates to the cover and structure in his environment. You just might pick up some information that will help you in the future, even when you can’t actually see a fish.

This Summer, remember that the old adage is true: There are always shallow fish. Along with this is the fact that shallow fish will be found wherever there is shade. Summer Fish must seek the protection and cooler qualities of shady areas, whether it is under lily pads, among cattails and bullrushes, under thick weed beds, under or beside mudlines, behind boulders or under logs. I have caught quite a few large fish in our local area that had raw spots on the tops of their tails – a kind of reverse spawning sore – from constantly sculling under their favorite log. I caught a big fish on a Texas rigged black lizard, while nightfishing in Long Lake in Spokane last July. The back of its tail from top to bottom was badly worn. This big Largemouth had been lurking along a vertical rock wall and had obviously taken up residence in a small pocket in the wall, facing out and watching for dinner. All such hideouts offer shade and cover, but the premium spots are also great ambush points where small prey do not see their doom waiting to pounce. Look for such spots!

Whether in lakes or rivers, I look for weedbeds and pads. Then I ‘pick them apart,’ dropping heavy jigs into holes in weed matts, dragging baits between clumps of pads or working weedless baits through pads. Letting a Spro Frog sit on a pad near an opening, then finally pulling him off and twitching him through the opening can produce a Summertime smash hit. Remember not to set the hook when you see the swirl or splash. Wait until you feel weight, then jab the hook in. The same pad-resting tactic, only with a Texas rigged worm which I eventually drop into an opening, can also tantalize a shady Bass into biting. Clear water and openings in vegetation are also good combinations for swimbaits, Sluggos and flukes. Try parking them like a baitfish hesitating between dashes.

I use the venerable spinnerbait too, but now I can ‘burn’ it through fish-holding areas. I might use the drop and flutter technique in some specific spots, but mostly I’m fishing the bait fast either just sub-surface or during daylight hours, deep enough so as to be barely visible to me. Usually around two feet or so, depending on water clarity. It’s somewhat of a relief to me when the warm weather finally comes and I no longer have to crawl my baits. But if I know for sure there are fish present and I’m not getting bites, I will slow the bait down or even slow-roll it on the bottom.

There was no need for that just the other night when a big fish came near to yanking my 6’6” baitcaster out of my hands. He was lurking in a barely submerged weedbed and after jarring me from daydreaming in the darkness, he dug in for the battle. Proof that even on moonless nights, Bass can still see and attack fast moving baits! This time topwaters didn’t work, but spinnerbaits did.

That happened in a lake, but don’t neglect the Columbia River. Its backwaters have some monster Bass hiding and they can be caught in daylight hours as well. I usually prefer slack or outgoing tides, but I used an incoming tide one afternoon to push a weightless, weedless, 10 inch black Powerworm under a jumble of crossed logs. A big fish gave an aggressive yank and then headed up-current in an arcing, Steelhead-like run. I had never seen a big fish make such a run. River fish have attitudes! I often find them hiding near shore along big laydowns or partially submerged logs, and such fish seem to be most vulnerable to a jig and grub dragged parallel – not across – the log.

Persistence pays off, so this Summer don’t get discouraged by the dog days and ‘slow’ doldrums. Use a mesh hat and some cool clothes to beat the heat. Bring plenty of fluids. Make lots of casts. Don’t be afraid to use big baits. And about the time you’re feeling like settling into that easy chair or lounge out on the deck at home, head for the water instead. It can be beautiful out there at night. So can the big fish that are waiting. {Wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt and put on some insect repellant…the skeeters are on the bite too!}

See you in August.

Your fellow fishing fanatic and Bassmaster,

Bob Larimer

As the days grow longer and the water begins to warm up past 45 degrees, Largemouth Bass are moving up out of their Winter haunts and beginning to look for spawning areas.  This is great news for all of us who like to catch these beautiful, powerful, challenging fish.

Under the proper conditions, some of your greatest successes of the year can come during the Spring. It’s good to bear in mind that as the bigger, smarter fish make their first moves into shallower water and brighter light, they can be very spooky.  Remember not to throw your shadow over them, get your boat too close or make too much noise from the boat or from land. Just a bang from a paddle or a tackle box, or a few rocks clinked together by a misplaced boot, and Mr. Bigmouth will squirt away. These fish have grown to their large size by being cautious.  Stealth is the word! With the powerful, unpredictable influence of marine weather from the Pacific Ocean and/or possible flows of cold Canadian air masses down into our region, planning Spring fishing trips can be challenging.  The ideal condition would be an early, sustained warming trend, a full moon for lake or river fishermen, and high Spring tides for devoted river fishermen.  Watch for warm rains, which will warm up lakes and even the river much faster than warm air temperatures.  I like to remember that fish are not afraid of rain, and neither should I be.  I have caught several very big Bass during warmer, rainy Spring weather. But what we in the Pacific Northwest often get is prolonged chilly spells, with cold rain, snow or hail falling into our water. This time of year it’s best to find areas of shallower water adjacent to deep water. The skinny water warms quicker, and when it begins to climb through 45 degrees and above, fish will seek out that water. These fish are in pre-spawn mode. When the water temperature is between 55 and 65 degrees, Bass get serious about spawning. Whether in the backwaters of the Columbia or in lakes, pre-spawn fish will be cruising the shallows, sometimes even ‘setting up’ or remaining in a certain area. Contrary to some reports, a cold front will not necessarily drive these fish back out into deeper water. They often will actually push deeper into cover when this happens. Pre-spawn bass can be found cruising in flooded shoreline brush, or hanging in areas of outside structure – near future spawning sites – such as rocks, rockpiles, underwater humps, stumps, logs or points {Actual spawning flats will be approximately 10 feet out from shore and in stable depths of anywhere from a foot or so to 6 feet, with bigger fish nesting deeper}.  There are several baits that work best for pre-spawn fish. A jig-and-pig or jig-and-grub fished slowly in heavier cover can be very effective. Try a slow, steady retrieve, feeling for a ‘mushy’ slow-down, or a light ‘tick’ as the fish bites. Also try a slow, reel, hop, reel approach, using very gentle twitches of the rod tip to impart a little extra motion to the jig. This bait and these retrieves can also be effective in more open areas right near the heavier cover. Try both. But retrieve s-l-o-w-l-y!  I like to use a little attractant, such as crawdad scent, on my jigs. At this time of year a 1/2 ounce jig in dark brown, dark green or black is a good choice. If the water is not clear, a rattling jig might help. One of my favorites for warmer, pre-spawn water is floating stick-baits such as Rapalas in Rainbow Trout pattern. I don’t do much swimming of the bait, instead I prefer to just toss it into an open area in flooded brush, or near a log or stump, let it sit, then twitch it.  Often the fish will hit before any motion is given to the lure.  If a still bait or twitching do not work, try four or five fast turns on the reel handle, then ease up. This causes the bait to make a shallow dive as if escaping, then pause and begin to rise. Often the Bass will hit just at the slowdown. This same tactic, perhaps with a quicker retrieve, also works well on spawning fish. I am also not shy about using larger baits, 5 1/2 inches or longer. Jointed versions will work well too. Another excellent pre-spawn bait is a 1/2 ounce to 3/4 ounce twin-blade spinnerbait. A black, white or white and chartreuse skirt works well. I like a small Colorado blade in front and a large willowleaf blade in back. I usually use a grub trailer with the tail pointed down.  Even with a grub trailer on, it is often wise to put an additional or ‘trailer hook’ on behind the spinnerbait’s hook. Cut off a small piece of surgical tubing, put it over the eye of the trailer hook, then punch the spinnerbait hook point through the tubing and eye of the trailer hook, keeping the trailer hook oriented in the same ‘up’ position as the spinnerbait hook.  Soft-biting or ‘short-striking’ Spring Bass will often hang up on the trailer hook, when they would have missed the main hook.  ‘Slow-roll’ a spinnerbait by keeping it in relatively constant contact with the bottom, bumping and banging its way over the cover. It will act somewhat like a jig, only with additional flash from the blades. Try a big crankbait as well. Chrome, baitfish, firetiger, citrus or crawdad colors are good. A stop-and-go retrieve might be just what it takes to make the fish hit.  Try flat-sided as well as the beefier models. Some folks also crawl  or slow-roll a lipless crankbait on the bottom and convince fish to strike. This can be a Winter tactic as well. Try a suspending stickbait. It can be deadly on early pre-spawn fish.  Reel it down and ‘park’ it in a good mid-depth area. Then give it a short ‘rip’ with a moderate lateral sweep of the rod tip. Repeat this process and be ready for the take.  This also works well for Smallmouth Bass. If you sense that your offerings are just a little too much for the wary pre-spawn fish you’re after, don’t neglect the lowly tube bait.  Its non-threatening, do-nothing presentation might just convince a wary fish to go for a quick meal. An eighth ounce or possibly heavier tube jig head in a motor oil and red flake, or possibly watermelon and black flake tube can be good offerings. Retrieve it slowly near the bottom and stay alert for ‘taps’. On the other hand, if you feel confident that the water is warming well, you can throw topwater buzzbaits out on the edges of cover. Agressive pre-spawn Bass will kayo a buzzbait at times, but it would probably be my last choice unless I was sure the water was well on it’s way toward spawning temperatures.

As in Bass fishing at any time of year, pay attention to depth, structure, cover and local land features when you catch a fish.  Look for similar areas as you move from place to place.  And try to stick to warmer water, if you can find it! Try to get out fishing as often as you can this season.  Conditions change – Improve! – quickly in Spring Bass fishing.  You want to be there when that magical time happens!