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For many anglers, winter is a slow time of year, and this is especially true for most fly fisherman. When waters get high due to rain or melt off, a lot of us get stuck inside, with not a whole lot to do. Unless of course, you tie.

Fly tying is a great way to spend those cold, rainy winter days when water is too high for good fly presentation (or any other day you can’t spend on the water but thoughts of fish consume your thoughts). Getting started can be relatively inexpensive, too. Most fly shops and sporting goods stores that carry fly tying supplies will have all inclusive beginners sets (some will even include some basic materials) for $50-$90. You can also find these user friendly sets in catalogs like Cabela’s, or Bass Pro Shops, as well as well known fly shop catalogs such as The Fly Shop.

To get started, though, you really don’t need all the tools included in these kits. I like to keep things simple. So for me, the necessities of a basic fly tying set up include a vise, a few bobbins, scissors, a hair stacker, and a dubbing tool. Typical kits also include a whip finisher, a bobbin threader, different sized hackle pliers, and a bodkin. While some of these tools do come in handy, you really don’t need them to get started on tying the flies we all use the most. Although, a whip finisher can be necessary for some people, but there are a few knots that can be tied by hand that are fairly easy to learn.

Your vise is the most important part of the whole set up. I really recommend buying your tools individually, which costs a bit more, but you will have more control over the quality of tools you get, and you don’t get some of the stuff you don’t need. So first off, I highly suggest buying a rotary vise right off the bat. Almost every kit I’ve seen comes with a stationary vise, which is fine if you only plan on tying very basic flies forever. Once you get into tying more though, you are going to want the functionality of a rotary, so you might as well just go with that in the first place. For a good rotary you can spend anywhere from $50 to a couple hundred. DanVice makes a great choice for beginners and veterans alike at about $70. Really any vise will get you going, but the purpose of a rotary is to make tying at different angles very easy.

Next come the tools. Like I said, I like to keep things simple, but we’ll go over most of the tools you can buy, just in case you run into a situation where something else may come in handy. First off, scissors. Good scissors are important. With these, you really do get what you pay for, so I recommend spending a little more for the mid-high priced scissors. Montana Fly Co. and Dr. Slick make some great, long lasting scissors. The next tool is your hair stacker. There are a ton of different styles, but I suggest a brass or steel stacker. A few places sell wood ones, but I don’t feel these work as nicely as a metal one. The third thing on your list, but second most important, is the bobbin. This tool is what holds your spool of thread. Ceramic bobbins are really nice; smoother and more durable than metal ones, but any bobbin will work. As far as dubbing tools go, would go with a dubbing twister and a comb, any brand will do. For the rest of the tools, bodkin, whip finisher, hackle pliers and bobbin threader, just do a little research to see what each one does, and make your decision on whether or not to buy them based on what you find out.

Now we can talk materials. This is where you’ll want to take notes, as there are thousands of materials you can use to tie any fly ever made. You’re definitely going to need thread to tie anything. I recommend going to a local fly shop and having someone help you get set up with a few spools in the most common sizes and colors. Beyond that, you can look at fly recipes to figure out what to use for specific patterns. Then you have hooks, and weights. Buying hooks can look kind of confusing, but basically it just comes down to size and shape. If you know what size flies you want to tie, it’s really easy to figure out what hooks to buy. Brand, though, is big with hooks. I really like Tiemco, Dia-Riki, and Daiichi. Also Mustad, Gamakatsu, Umpqua, and Eagle Claw make great fly hooks. I especially like Gamakatsu octopus hooks for tying egg patterns or for using as stinger hooks on streamers, skaters, and some mice patterns. The weights (used for sub-surface flies) are really important too. For these, just look at the fly you want to tie to determine what to get.

The next subject is what goes onto the fly to make it look like it should. This list includes thousands of options from Deer and Elk hair, to guinea fowl feathers, tinsel to rabbit fur. Deciding what to buy can be very simple, if you know how to figure it out. First off, look at the flies you want to tie. Next, go online and type in the name of the fly on any search engine. Look for results that say something about instructions or recipes. These will give you every detail on the materials you will need, as well as step by step directions on how to tie the fly. YouTube can also be a great reference site for learning how to tie flies, since most people learn better when they can see what is going on.

The last thing you are going to want to buy is glue of some sort. I like normal head cement and Zap-a-Gap. The glue is used to make sure your knot at the head of the fly doesn’t come undone, and also to attach things like eyes, and sometimes wings.

So next time you’re sitting at home looking at swollen rivers and rain, do a little research and go buy yourself a tying set up. You’ll learn a lot about the flies we use and be better at identifying what to use while on the water, and most importantly, you’ll kill the boredom. Good luck and good fishing!

As avid Salmon, Steelhead, and Trout fishermen we all can appreciate the advantages that floating the river can give us. Many times I find myself wondering what boat I like better, a pontoon boat or a drift boat. There are so many great things about each craft, and they both get you down the river to those untouchable holes which most bank fisherman cant access. Let’s take a moment to go over the pro’s and con’s of each boat, so you can decide as a fishermen which one suites your needs better.

Drift boats are definitely the most popular and sought after floating device for many reasons. This boat will fit multiple people and tons of gear, which makes it the perfect craft for guiding. Drift boats are also designed to glide easily across the water to make for less strain while oaring. They come in all different shapes and sizes, and are made from many different materials such as aluminum, fiberglass and even wood. Any fisherman can appreciate how comfortable and spacious these boats are, especially when being out on the water all day.

Although there are so many great factors to having a drift boat, I still have couple of issues with them. Drift boats can be extremely loud from bouncing off rocks and scraping bottom which tends to scare fish and let them know your presence. Fishing is all about being elusive and not being seen. Water levels can drop making floating a drift boat very hard if not impossible, then you’re stuck hiking around like everyone else. I also feel that fishing out of a drift boat by yourself can be a little difficult at times, especially launching and loading your boat.

Pontoon boats are not quite as popular as drift boats but are very capable and user friendly crafts. I find that pontoon boats are great for beginners because if you can’t avoid a rock or a log, most of the time you can just go right over it! These boats are also very quiet and can easily be navigated in tight spots. When the river is low these crafts are good to go, they float in 3 inches of water and if you get stuck you can easily drag them to deeper water. When Drift boats can’t float the river, Pontoon boats can!
There are also a few downsides to pontoon boats. With Pontoon boats you are limited to how many fisherman that can float with you, there are 2 and 3 seat pontoons but they are big and can get really expensive. Gear storage can be very limited, and normally you are limited to 1 or 2 fishing rods. There are platforms for a box or a cooler and they usually have a number of pockets but you have to limit yourself to what gear you bring. It also is very hard to pull plugs and bait-diver set ups because lack of hands. If you don’t have an anchor set-up you are usually forced to pull to shore to fish the hole, if there is no bank access I run a rope across the front of my boat so it can’t float away and I wade while fishing.
I hope that this information could help you on your decision on which boat would fit your needs best or maybe both if it’s in your budget. Each boat is a great at floating the river and will do so for many years with the right maintenance. While on your next adventure down your favorite stream, whether it is in a Drift boat or a Pontoon I hope you catch many fish and have a safe float.
Your fellow fishing addict,
Shaun Keller

Well, here we are in another year for great trout fishing. The past winter, or lack there of, is hopefully going to be a big plus come June. The lack of snow and our mild late winter/early spring time provides a promising look at what is in store for us. Little snow in the mountains means little to no run-off, which botched the June opener in 2008. Last year was alright, but the water was still ashy on glacial streams and made them run a little higher than we would like, but this year should be picture perfect, knock on wood.

So this spring I encourage everyone to get out and do a little early fishing on some of the year-round trout waters, like the Skagit, which a portion of is open for all trout, including bull trout. Some of these year-round rivers would be a great place to get some early fishing in because of the fact that most guys who fish these rivers during the winter and spring months are targeting steelhead, making it easier to target trout with smaller streamers and dries. Some other rivers to look into fishing include the Middle fork of the Snoqualmie, which has selective gear rules, and part of the Yakima , which is open year round for brook trout. Also you can find other rivers to fish by doing a little work at home. Get your fishing regulations out and scour the pages for year-round listings, and call fly shops or guides in the areas you want to try to fish.

Preparing for a trip to one of these rivers is a must. I don’t recommend just heading out with your usual gear in hopes of catching fish. Call the local shops to see what they recommend you take with you, let them know where you are from and let them know you when you will be in the area, so they can give you all of the specifics. They may have some hatches that we don’t get this early, or special flies you may have never heard of. Don’t forget to stop at the shops you call and mention that you talked to them on the phone. This is always good because they may not give you all the secrets over the phone, but may be more willing if you actually use the shops, even if it’s just for a few extra leaders or flies.

So let’s talk about some of the things that are always good to take, that most of us already have. Woolly buggers are always a good pattern to throw and they will usually produce fish. Go to any local store that carries flies and check out some of the new developments in these patterns as well, you just might find your new favorite pattern.. You can also always count on the trusted favorite nymphs and dries. There are a lot of hatches that occur at roughly the same time everywhere, like midges or blue winged olives (BWO).

Aside from streams, you also have lakes as an option. Like I mentioned before, we had a pretty mild winter, so a lot of the lakes that would usually still be frozen over are open, and haven’t had much pressure for a while. While the gates may be closed still, you can always hike in with a float tube or pontoon and expect some good fishing. If you find the lake you head out to is still mostly frozen, don’t turn around and go home. Look for places where small streams are feeding in there will usually be enough open water to cast to from the shore. These places can often provide some of the best fishing anywhere on the lake. The fresh water brings in tons of food for fish, causing them to school up around the openings in the ice. Try tying on nymphs or cripples and let them dead drift from the moving water into the deeper still water, and be ready to set the hook because these fish will be hungry. You can also throw woolly buggers imitating smaller fish. There will always be small fish coming into these areas to gorge themselves on the fresh food source in hopes of getting bigger, and the big fish love to eat them.

Another necessary preparation for the summer months to come is checking your gear. If you haven’t fished for a while, things can get kind of worn out and old, mainly your lines and leaders. I always highly recommend buying new line at least once a year, and always use fresh leaders because who knows how long they sat in a store before you bought them and stored them with your trout gear all winter. Flies are always good to check as well. I hate tying on a fly only to find that the hood has weakened from sitting in a box too long. Take a selected amount of flies out and give the hook a little tug, you’ll probably find that some of the cheaper flies have hooks that will break behind the material from being put away wet and rusting out. It would suck to hook a good fish and have the hook break or bend.

Something that people often overlook is checking waders and wading boots. I’ve had waders that were in perfect shape when I put them away, but from being folded up for a while developed weak spots that turned into small leaks. With your wading boots make sure the soles are still in good shape. Sometimes the thread can wear out causing the soles to separate in spots, which can be dangerous in the water. Also check your laces, you don’t want to get out there and have the laces break because you never want loose boots when walking on wet or slippery rocks.

I hope you all will take this advice to heart, and get out there and try some great spring fishing. I know that all hardcore trout fisherman will enjoy themselves, even if you don’t catch fish. Hell, anything beats staying in town daydreaming about the summer fishing we all look forward so much. An early trip and that first fish of the season always makes the time waiting for June go much quicker. So good luck, and good fishing.

Your local Fly Fishin’ Addict, the Troutbum89

Late summer means two things for fly fishermen: longer days for more fishing, and most importantly, the biggest, baddest dries of the season. I’m talking about terrestrials, “land bugs”. These flies offer some of the most exciting fishing of the year, and often times some of the summer’s biggest fish.

It’s a known fact that fish take 90% of their food sub-surface, and that terrestrials make up 1% of the 10% of the food they take from above the water. So, why the focus on these big, and usually ugly, patterns? Well, for those of us who prefer on any given day to fish a dry fly, these flies make for some of the most visually appealing fishing. Huge top-water explosions, big fish, and the satisfaction of catching a trout on a pattern not usually on the menu are our reasons.

By the time late July rolls around, the hatches of spring are typically over, and the tricos have yet to arrive. So for the dry fly lover there is only one option: terrestrials. Woolly buggers and nymphs just won’t do when you’re looking for visual excitement. The late summer heat tends to push fish to cooler water, which this time of year means deeper water. But, large terrestrial bugs mean loads of protein to big fish (and smaller fish who want to be big fish). We have learned that by tying on a large land bug pattern we can often entice lazy summer fish into heading to the surface, and have grown to love doing just that.

This time of year also provides more options for our choice of pattern. During hatches fish tend to be a tad picky, taking only a certain pattern, and usually a certain size. This can make for difficult fishing, what with trying to find the exact pattern to use and all. Terrestrial fishing is completely different. There are a ton of choices when it comes to tying one of these on, because usually any large bug from above will produce fish (which is the main goal of fishing, or so I’m told).

These bugs can range from spiders to caterpillars, butterflies to grasshoppers. The most common from my experience is the latter of the four mentioned, but don’t let that stop you from trying something else. Another favorite of large trout is the flying ant, which is a great choice wherever flying ants and trout are found near each other. Try fishing spiders and inchworms where overhanging trees are present, or head to a grassy meadow and throw out a large field mouse pattern. Try bees, ladybugs, beetles, crickets, cicadas, and termites anywhere along the shore or around exposed foliage, try anything you see flying or crawling around in your backyard (seriously anything, I’ve seen guys catching fish on common house/blow fly patterns).

These flies are also a great way to get those new to the sport excited about it. Technique isn’t a huge part of fishing them which is good for rookies. On streams, throw these patterns into slow moving water, usually within a few feet of the shore, since this is where the real thing will usually be found. When this doesn’t work, try a flying bug pattern in pocket water, or tree dwelling bugs under overhanging growth. With such a variety of ways to fish these patterns, you’re going to catch fish, and you’re going to have a blast doing it.

So next time you hit your favorite trout waters, set the streamer and nymph boxes aside, tie on a land critter, and find out for yourself what late summer terrestrial fishing is all about. Good luck and good fishing.

- troutbum89